Hey all,

First trouble with the 6.0 Excursion in a while. A crank, no start condition while out of town. Shop said need to replace throttle body, throttle body position sensor, and fuel control injection module.

What I'm struggling getting an answer on is why, and/or are all 3 items related that if 1 fails it takes the others with it?

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Paul

 

More info would be helpful. How many miles? Any previous work?

I would lean towards ICP, IPR, or HPOP. How long have you tried cranking it? OEM oil filter used? If the oil filter gets an air leak and drains back it can take 15-20 seconds to build high pressure oil to fire the injectors.

To check if it's the ICP that's bad, try unplugging it and cranking to see if it starts, that sets it to a default command, just don't drive it that way if it fires up.

 

~140K. Previous work, yes...Turbo, multiple EGRs before deleting, engine oil cooler, exhaust back pressure valve, fuel check valve, high pressure oil check valve, 1&2 injectors replaced, and some other work but I don't have the documentation readily available.

I track my fuel mileage and have noticed it has been getting worse over the last 6-12 months.

I can't recall if latest oil filter is a Motorcraft, but I am leaning towards yes. I cranked multiple times (cycles) and made sure it was on level surface. Disconnected ICP with same results.

If the HPOP was bad, wouldn't that come up on the Ford diagnostic?

 

Could be the FICM as they said.

Do you have any thing like a scangauge II or Edge Insight?

When cranking the engine and waiting for the glowplugs to do their job it'll display battery volts and FICM volts and then you can watch those values as you turn over the engine.

There are minimums you don't want to go below. Poor batteries will damage the FICM. A damaged FICM will take out injectors, give bad fuel mileage and make starting get worse. FICM can become a bad egg independant of batteries by the way.

 

By the way, if FICM is an issue check out Ed at FICMRepair.com.

Give him a call to discuss your options. I notice you said you are out of town. You'll get the best FICM you can from him. I believe he has a service where he sends you one and you send him your one which reduces down time you'd have waiting for your repaired one to be returned to you.

 

Thanks for the info. The truck is in Columbus and I'm back home in Cincy, so Ford is locating the FCIM.

No Edge or Scangauge. It got put on the back burner for other work. I think it's going to move back up so I can watch important items.

Truck seemed to run fine heading to C-bus Friday and Saturday. Parked in (sloped) driveway overnight and wouldn't start the next morning.

 

If you have a diagnostic tool, watch ICP and IPR when cranking and report back those numbers. I would lean towards HPOP rather than FICM if it just went out all of a sudden. See if you can get it scanned (and not with a generic OBDII scanner, need the Ford codes) and report back.

 

I've heard of these before, leans towards a bad HPOP or a leak at the HPOP allowing the HP oil to drain out overnight. Was it nose up or nose down?

 

It is always easy to tell someone else how to spend their money, but something to consider independant of the problems you are having now ...

If your FICM goes out and you leave it in the hands of the dealer, they will give you a replacement one (not a new one they don't make them any more) which will still leave you with a module with all the issues of an original one .... that will cost you $900 +/-.

You can get a scangauge for $160 and then an upgraded repaired FICM from ficmrepair.com for $325 with a 2 yr warranty. (2 yr warranty comes with upgraded parts) add $35 for shipping and you are at $535.
You are ahead by $365, you have a new electronic gauge and you have a better ficm with a warranty.

 

Work is currently being done by Ford, so diagnostic tool should be Ford's.

It was nose up in the driveway (estimate 10-15deg slope) and ~1/4 tank of fuel. I read the thread on the crank, no start condition on a sloped driveway, so I backed to the level street and tried. Same results.

 

Did you see the low pressure oil gauge come up while cranking? I couldn't believe how much cranking it took after my headgasket job to get pressure built up and feeding the HPOP system so it could start. Several 20-30 second cranking sessions were involved. A non-oem filter can cause it to drain back, so that is one thing I would be sure and check.

 

Yes. The oil pressure came up to normal range on the dash gauge.

 

I had some altenator and battery problems a while back and noticed after that my truck was leaving black exhaust on rear fender bumper and loss in fuel milage. After my ficm went out completely it made sense what was going on the injectors were dragging through low voltage. I'm guessing it's your ficm.
Best $160.00 you will EVER spend on these trucks is for a: ScanguageII

New ficm / clean exhaust out of pipe better fuel milage power ect.

 

I had a battery problem years ago and an alternator problem a year or so ago. Coupled with heavier black soote in the pipe (and sometimes on my boat) I'm thinking you are describing my issue also!

I'm looking into an Edge Insight (or scangauge II) so I can monitor my battery voltage (and other stuff).

 

I have same problem, icp 1001 psi, batt volt 10.75, ficm 47.5 read with AE all while cranking. Possible wiring problem from alt to pass batts. Voltage dropped to 8 after moving wiring harness on that side.New motor craft batts in 0511