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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

that dang 352....

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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 12:52 AM
  #31  
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i know the block was possibly decked at one point but the PO is out of contact with no way to track him down so i only know the things that i have done to it but i have given up on it and set her back in her little corner of the shop till i can get a professional to check it out.... i got the 390 in her today and fired up now just waiting on my drive shaft....... then eventually gonna build my .30 over 390 for the 7deuce (my avatar picture)
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 08:09 PM
  #32  
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drove Da Twister home this evening and the motor and gear combo is exactly what i had been hoping for just 1st gear alone is a hair faster than what 2nd gear used to be and when you lay into the back barrels at about 50 the 390 just sets you back in the seat and makes me grin ear to ear it is like a rocket sled on rails compared to my wife's truck which i have been stuck driving for the last two months..... she sounds good and nice smooth purr under the hood around 2000 rpm for 65 mph a whole different world compared to what it was...... and the new rear end set up doesn't have any wheel hop issue so three birds with one stone.......
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #33  
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As a fellow '66 F100 Camper Special owner, any chance we could see some pics? As you probably know, the 100 Camper Special is, apparently, a pretty rare bird. Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #34  
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da twister and then this is all of my girls right before i got my house painted and re roofed
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 06:16 PM
  #35  
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found another pic
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #36  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Was about to post the cam plug installation info when deciding to read a few threads further. Someone posted the cup goes inward iirc ? The plug installs *** backwards to a freeze plugs installation. The other way around and you will push the cam forward. So far in fact that the lifters will ride on the edge of the cam lobe and the dizzy gear will get he hell mashed out of it. I have also seen a newer timing set used with a thrust washer and this causes similar issues. Looks like you got it worked out.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #37  
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yea i just said the hell with the mystery motor im going to make a coffee table out of it
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #38  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Originally Posted by smokenchoken
yea i just said the hell with the mystery motor im going to make a coffee table out of it
Ther is nothing wrong with it. Read what they have been telling you. Your "new timing set" has the spacer built into it. You do not install the old C shaped spacer with a newer timing set. It will offset the endplay. Make sure the cam plate is installed with the groove in the upper left as seen in image posted for reference. No C shaped spacer between cam gear and cam plate. YOUR DONE.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #39  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Originally Posted by Boss9F100


see the images here, the C shaped spacer is part of the timing gear for the cam. and the cam plate needs to have oil groove on the face in the upper left. Installing the spacer will force the cam back .25" past where it should be resting.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:44 PM
  #40  
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if you look on page 2 i had already removed the spacer and made everything right with it and did indeed get my end play issue resolved and it never would fire up again and i replaced my heads and a different dizzy and still won't start ...... motor is a mystery right now it has fuel air fire and perfect timing and will not start the best thing i can come up with is that it needed those specific heads on that motor to run because i tried for 3 days and with 2 separate local mechanics and could never get it to do anything more than chug once or twice only thing i can think of is maybe it is to low compression now to run possibly....would need to use compression gauge to figure that part out so im sick of working on that motor so i put one in it that i knew would go right together and run great (and it does) so im gonna paint up that dang 352 and make a coffee table out of it so it can never bother me again other than maybe stubbing my toe once in a while
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #41  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Originally Posted by smokenchoken
if you look on page 2 i had already removed the spacer and made everything right with it and did indeed get my end play issue resolved and it never would fire up again and i replaced my heads and a different dizzy and still won't start ...... motor is a mystery right now it has fuel air fire and perfect timing and will not start the best thing i can come up with is that it needed those specific heads on that motor to run because i tried for 3 days and with 2 separate local mechanics and could never get it to do anything more than chug once or twice only thing i can think of is maybe it is to low compression now to run possibly....would need to use compression gauge to figure that part out so im sick of working on that motor so i put one in it that i knew would go right together and run great (and it does) so im gonna paint up that dang 352 and make a coffee table out of it so it can never bother me again other than maybe stubbing my toe once in a while
If it's running and your moving thats what counts.

As to compression, it will fire regardless. The timing gears dots need to meet at TDC on #1 cyl, dist installed pointing at 1 post, with room for timing adj. If there is no sign of fire and the firing order is correct on plug wires, the dist is likely installed 180deg out. Move wires ahead four positions or pull dist and reset after 1 rotation of crank.

Anywho.. sounds like the thing is gonna rest regardless, cheers
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:20 AM
  #42  
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thanks for your input redmanbob i do indeed know how to set timing on these trucks i have worked on many different engines and that is the first thing you learn is how to set timing
 
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