New to the forum and need some advice.

I just bought a 2006 6.0L crew dually a few weeks ago.

When I start it up cold it'll crank fine for about 4-5 seconds then it will start. As soon as it starts it will stumble at trying to stay running then die.

When I crank it over the second time it will start and stay running with a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. It clears up after a few seconds.

I'm a novice when it comes to all those sensors and their abbreviations and functions but I'm learning as I go.

I usually have to leave it running for 10 minutes or so to warm it up before I can drive off with it.

When I do I'm leaving a nice smoke trail behind me. So much so sometimes I loose site of traffic behind me.

The tranny temp on the cluster indicates operating temp range.

The Coolant gauge shows about 1/4 of the way to operating temp. So I would think it is warm enough to drive off.

If I try to accelerate with the smoke coming out the tail pipe the truck will buck and act like one or more of the cylinders are cutting in and out.

This goes on for about a 1/4 mile or so then it suddenly stops and runs great after that.

It only does it on cold start ups in the morning. Warm starts are fine. No smoke or hesitating.

I was able to borow a friends scanner to see what the air temp sensors were reading when cold. They were reading ambient temp in the morning before the cold start up.

That's the limit of my expertise.

Any ideas what this could be?

 

What color is the smoke? If it's white try to get a smell of it. Should be diesel fuel smell or coolant.

 

Its a blueish blackish mix. Definately burnt diesel fuel. It's like a very rich mixture.

 

Check ficm voltage. Cold key on, cold cranking and warm. Min. 47.5 volts.

 

So it should read 47.5 minumum whether it's cold or warm cranking to start or just with the key on?

 

It should never be below 47.5 volts. If so the ficm is at least a major part of your problem.

 

The Best thing you could do at this point is invest in a ScanGaugeII

Handy Gadget for shure it will show you just about every sensor on the 6.0L engine and even some trans stuff. You can program 25 gauges you want specificaly in addition to what already there

theres 40-50 gauges to pick from that are specific to the 6.0L Ford

Its 160.00$$ from Autozone or from Manufacture here ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools

Just make shure its a (SCANGAUGEII) not SG E or anything else

Its Plug and Play and most anyone here can help you set it up you will need to enter some codes into it for the diffrent gauges


Its going to be able to check your FICM at your Fingertips vs Moving the coolant bootle in the engine bay to get at the FICM with a DVM

Plus you need to check alternator and Batterys cuz when they get weak they can KILL the FICM


read this

ACRONYMS FORD

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

this^^^^ should help with the Lingo on here



And WELCOME to FTE

 

Thanks a lot Blade35.

Will definately look into the scangaugeII.

Sounds like a handy tool to have.

 

You have at least 1 bad injector. With it over fueling so much. I would focus on replacement asap. I've read story's of this kind of thing melting pistons and or destroying cylinders.

 

Would that bad injector/s operate normally after warm up? It runs great after the initial warm up.

 

As Unreal said injector is a definant possibility, but I would still check FICM. Cold truck is better. Here's link to the instructions: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=303583 posts 5-9 are all about the FICM, #5 is the test. Just need a torx driver, wrench, volt meter, and a helper to turn the key. Takes 30min or less.

 

After reading the thread on the FICM I removed it and soldered the connections as indicated. Unfortunately I did'nt take any cold readings.

After the repair I installed the FICM and then took readings.

The truck was off for 3 hours and the gauges in the truck were all on the cold side.

I took readings before I started the truck with the key on. 48.5 volts.

Had the wife start the truck and it still stayed at 48.5 volts.

Will check the readings after it sits all night and see if it still stays at those numbers.

Thanks again for all the asisstance guys..

 

Does it start and Run better when Cold Now?????????

 

I'll find out tomorrow when I start it. A hard cold start is what I'm interested in.

Will let you know Blade35....

 

Thanks

The solider works great in certain conditions

Normaly when Low Volts (But not way Low Volts) and solider joints cracked runs rough cold and good Hot a resolider works