time to replace the turbo

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May 21, 2012 | 07:25 PM

#16

fordpride

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From: Livoina,La

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchosler

I was thinking going with the beans turbo but wasnt sure if it was a direct bolt in or not. Also what are the other turbos worth looking into that are direct bolt in?

What are you planning on doing with your truck?

If it's just a DD, tow rig, and sometime play I'd go with a s366 or a s465

Note as of Travis to put a s400 frame in a OBS you will have to cut and beat back the fire wall in the turbo area to get it in.

May 22, 2012 | 09:58 AM

#17

jchosler

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From: Denver, CO

Just talked to Jake at Irate Diesel for a bit about the s366 and his turbo only works when you have electric fuel due to a return line he uses where the mechanical pump used to go so I ended up going with the beans because I can't do electric fuel right now

Jun 7, 2012 | 05:34 PM

#18

jchosler

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From: Denver, CO

Does anyone have a link to an D66 install page?

Jun 7, 2012 | 10:27 PM

#19

jchosler

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From: Denver, CO

How about for a stock turbo?
Just unsure on torque specs and if there's a gasket between the turbo and pedestal

Jun 7, 2012 | 11:02 PM

#20

fordpride

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From: Livoina,La

It got two o rings in-between the ped and turbo

Jun 8, 2012 | 06:41 AM

#21

DIYMechanic

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From: Orrville, Ohio

The only gasket is between the collector and the exhaust side housing. Everything else is sealed by o-rings.

Jun 8, 2012 | 09:05 AM

#22

jchosler

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From: Denver, CO

do I need lock tight? Anyone know torque specs?

Jun 8, 2012 | 11:14 AM

#23

pjwoolw

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From: San Ramon Ca.

No LocTite. Nickel anti sieze is what you should use. Your not going to be able to get to all the fasteners to torque them so get as close as you can by feel. Leave the flange to the downpipe off the turbo and install it last.

Pedestal to Engine Mounting Bolts 24 Nm / 18 ft lbs

Exhaust Back Pressure Valve to turbo 6-7 Nm / about 80 in lbs

Turbine Housing to Center Housing 20-24 Nm / 18 ft lbs

Turbo to up pipe flange 49 Nm / 36 ft lbs