OBD-2 ready monitors
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2012
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From: memphis, TN
OBD-2 ready monitors
Hi,
I have a 1996 Ranger with 286k miles . I have failed vehicle inspection twice due to my readiness monitors not in the ready condition. I've driven about 25 miles a week on weekends only for the past 3 years. I have my own scanner which reports the 02 sensor, Heater 02 sensor, egr sensor and cat sensor are not ready. I had my battery to fail and needed a boost last winter.I have not done any other work that required the battery to be disconnected. I have driven over 300 miles at hiway speeds and stop and go in the city. I started this drive cycle the first of May. My question is....I have an exhaust leak near my catalytic converter. Could this be preventing my sensors from going to the "Ready" state or do I just need to keep driving? If it is the cause, will I have to have it repaired then start the drive cycle all over agin. My tags expire the end of this month. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 1996 Ranger with 286k miles . I have failed vehicle inspection twice due to my readiness monitors not in the ready condition. I've driven about 25 miles a week on weekends only for the past 3 years. I have my own scanner which reports the 02 sensor, Heater 02 sensor, egr sensor and cat sensor are not ready. I had my battery to fail and needed a boost last winter.I have not done any other work that required the battery to be disconnected. I have driven over 300 miles at hiway speeds and stop and go in the city. I started this drive cycle the first of May. My question is....I have an exhaust leak near my catalytic converter. Could this be preventing my sensors from going to the "Ready" state or do I just need to keep driving? If it is the cause, will I have to have it repaired then start the drive cycle all over agin. My tags expire the end of this month. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Had the same problem with my 97 Explorer. A quick look at the FACTORY wiring diagrams told me there was a fuse to check. Sure enough the KAM/keep alive memory fuse for the PCM was blown. Replaced it drove a couple more days & then passed Cal. smog no problem
if i had a 96 RAnger I would have the FACTORY wiring diagrams for it & could tell you which fuse it is.
See if the Ford dealer will show you the "engine controls wiring diagram" for a 96 Ranger.
if i had a 96 RAnger I would have the FACTORY wiring diagrams for it & could tell you which fuse it is.
See if the Ford dealer will show you the "engine controls wiring diagram" for a 96 Ranger.
Last edited by 87 XLT; May 20, 2012 at 01:19 PM. Reason: add info
Moderator
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
The exhaust leak isn't going to help things.
Here is a post with links for the IM readiness drive cycle that you can do that might help, if you need to complete your drive cycle right away, or don't want to go through extensive driving to wait for them to reset after a battery disconnect. Also a link there for the cold & warm idle relearn routine after a battery disconnect, that'll prevent driveability problems after a battery disconnect that wipes the KAM.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Ranger, 1992 with smog problem
The exhaust leak isn't going to help things.
Here is a post with links for the IM readiness drive cycle that you can do that might help, if you need to complete your drive cycle right away, or don't want to go through extensive driving to wait for them to reset after a battery disconnect. Also a link there for the cold & warm idle relearn routine after a battery disconnect, that'll prevent driveability problems after a battery disconnect that wipes the KAM.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Ranger, 1992 with smog problem
Junior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Aldie
I am going through this drive cycle too. The only thing I got left is the EVAP cycle with requires me to drive on hwy after a cold start. I have followed the rest of the instructions and so far so good.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2012
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From: memphis, TN
Thanks, I couldnt find the thread from Frodo79 but I did find the maxi fuse under the hood. I still have my users' manual. It checks good
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Freshman User
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From: memphis, TN
My evap sensor shows N/A but I do know it's hard to reset during the hottest parts of the year
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2012
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From: memphis, TN
Thanks...But Ive tried the Drive cycle routines at the link you provided several times already. Still shows not ready. I got these directions from you about 2 weeks ago PawPaw. (Your name is not easily forgotten).
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Freshman User
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From: memphis, TN
Let me make a correction. I checked that fuse you refered me to the first time for continuity and it checked good. But when I checked for my 12 v, I only get 12 v on one side of the PCM fuse and 0v on the other side. I'll replace it in morning and let you know what happens. Hopefully it wont blow again and this madness will be over.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
That other thread is "smog problems/frodo79", but i see you've allready found the problem with that blown fuse. Try removing the horn relay & see if the fuse still blows.
The diagrams in a Haynes or Chiltons are pretty much useless, but a good set of diagrams will show you any connectors in the circuit. Opening the connectors will help isolate where the short is.
OTOH if the new fuse does'nt blow just drive it for a few days to reset the monitors & you should be good to go.
The diagrams in a Haynes or Chiltons are pretty much useless, but a good set of diagrams will show you any connectors in the circuit. Opening the connectors will help isolate where the short is.
OTOH if the new fuse does'nt blow just drive it for a few days to reset the monitors & you should be good to go.
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Freshman User
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From: memphis, TN
Oh well. It seems it is not my pcm/horn fuse. It's actually 1 side of the socket that wont read properly. I tested the socket with the fuse removed and only got my 12 volts on 1 side. Although when I insert the fuse and kinda move the entire box side to side a bit, the voltage comes and goes. None of the other fuses behave that way. Are you familiar with this? Do those boxes go bad? I thought about buying some contact cleaner and spraying down in the socket.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
well one end of the fuse is wired to 12 volts, the other end is wired to the horn relay/PCM. With the fuse removed you should see voltage on only one of the fuse contacts. With a fuse installed you should see voltage on both ends of the fuse unless the fuse is blown.
If this voltage goes away when you wiggle the fuse box it looks like you have a bad connection on the underside of the fuse box.
Wish i had diagrams for a 96 Ranger
If this voltage goes away when you wiggle the fuse box it looks like you have a bad connection on the underside of the fuse box.
Wish i had diagrams for a 96 Ranger
Moderator
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From: SW Va
Rags, I was thinking of you doing the IM reset drive cycle routine After you fixed the problem, in case you were running out of time at the end of the month & needed to hurry up the reset so you could get it through inspection.
Here is another post by Rockledge, with links for the Ford IM drive cycle routine, that has an easy to read & understand, breakdown of what each part of the drive cycle routine resets & another Ford link to an in depth detailed 49 page tutorial on OBD-1 & 2 IM monitors.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Can't Smog Wife's Truck NEED URGENT HELP
Kinda sounds like you have a fuse box contact, or wiring problem.
If any corrosion is noticed, clean it up with CRC QD spray & inspect the wire connection to the back side of the fuse holder, looking for poor/loose contact, crimp, spot weld, broken wire strands, bent/spread fuse holder contacts, corrosion, ect, fix that, then do the drive cycle & let us know how it goes.
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Freshman User
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From: memphis, TN
Fuse holder corrosion
Yes, I applied contact cleaner and filed away the corrosion on the 0V side of the fuse socket. It so happens that my horn and PCM is on that same fuse. My horn works perfectly now. So I'll assume my monitors will report in now and I do need to go through the drive cycles again. Thanks for the updated link. I feel confident this is the solution. My horn hasnt worked in 2 years.