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OBD-2 ready monitors

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Old May 21, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #16  
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You guys are amazing! I really appreciate your time and knowledge. It was the contact all the time. My PCM and horn are both on the same fuse and now that I've cleaned the corrosion from the fuse holder, My horn works perfectly. It hadnt worked in over 2 years.I assume that that I will now get either DTcodes or a ready state. I'll just blow my horn before and after a drive cycle and let it sit overnite. My City began this OBD-2 vs tailpipe testing in 2011. There are dozens of us with this new headache. I will surely send them to this site. I have a co-worker with 1998 Ranger experiencing a check Engine light with code P0171 , Bank 1 system to lean. If we cant figure it out, We know where to go. Thanks again!
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #17  
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Now that is some VERY VERY good news. Now that this problem is fixed the settings in the PCM wont be erased evertime the key is turned off.

I hear you on the emissions testing here in ca they used to only do the sniff test, but now they also plug into the PCM

Thanks for the update & congrats on the fix.

To celebrate your success I think i'll have a brewski or 2 or 3 or 4.It's hot here.

pawpaw thanks for the kind words in your previous post.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:46 PM
  #18  
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My horn did blow the fuse in question, But I calmly replaced it. I Did NOT blow the horn again. Ran through the drive cycle recommended by Paw Paw. All sensors went to ready within 30 minutes. I was so amazed I immediately took it through inspection and passed. I'll worry about the horn later. Thanks Folks!!!!
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Rags1996
Yes, I applied contact cleaner and filed away the corrosion on the 0V side of the fuse socket. It so happens that my horn and PCM is on that same fuse. My horn works perfectly now. So I'll assume my monitors will report in now and I do need to go through the drive cycles again. Thanks for the updated link. I feel confident this is the solution. My horn hasnt worked in 2 years.
Good trouble shooting find, fix, feedback & to hear all seems well so far.
The IM monitors can be more quickly reset if you do the prescribed drive cycle & they'll likely also reset with a couple of days of city & steady throttle state on the road driving. The exhaust leak, depending on where it is, may affect the O2 sensors. So you may have to address that before completing the emissions test.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #20  
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Dang I gotta learn to type faster lol!!!! After posting above I see you've already done the drive cycle, reset the IM monitors & its passed inspection!!!! Good to hear it passed, but don't ignore the exhaust leak for safety reasons.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #21  
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Thanks Pawpaw!! In order: Exaust leak,Fuel sending unit,odometer,Horn and cigarette lighter. But now theres no rush. I'll tackle them 1 at a time on MY time not the City"s time.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #22  
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On the horn blowing the fuse problem, disconnect the horn electrical connector, push the horn button like your blowing it & see if the fuse blows, if so, its a wiring problem, like skinned insulation, or a horn relay problem. If the fuse doesn't blow, its a horn problem.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #23  
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Thanks! Will let you know the outcome
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #24  
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I disconnected my horn and it still fried my fuse after blowing it a few times. I need to replace my gauge cluster for a bad odometer and cigarette lighter wont pop out , so I'll get them all at one time . Had some trouble finding a cluster but I got one from ebay. Ford wanted $475 + odometer calibration. May as well get the dash lights too. As you may notice, I kinda let things build up on me. Many Thanks!
 
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