Ford 9" differential fluid
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Winter, WI
I dunno
Thanks for the reply! I did a search of the forum and to pull the shaft and all I'd have to pull the axles out some too. I suppose that means brakes and bearings and the whole sha-bang! HS! And one responder said he couldn't get JS out of his pumpkin with even a 1/4" tube.... Maybe there was nothing in there to get any longer? I'll try to suck some out and refill it and MAYBE... Get into it more sometime later. Itd sure help to have a garage up here! Thanks again! 
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
i did this on my D70. Didnt want to spend the time removing the cover, so i just sucked it out and refilled it.
i used 85w-140 synthetic blend. but i was also trying to solve a traction loc shutter ... which i did. The stuff i used was rated for LS diff's without the additive, and it has worked wonderfully.... Valvoline IIRC.
anyway, if it were me, i'd just suck it out and refill it. you'll get 90% or better of the old fluid out doing it that way ... that will solve most problems, in my experience anyway.
i used 85w-140 synthetic blend. but i was also trying to solve a traction loc shutter ... which i did. The stuff i used was rated for LS diff's without the additive, and it has worked wonderfully.... Valvoline IIRC.
anyway, if it were me, i'd just suck it out and refill it. you'll get 90% or better of the old fluid out doing it that way ... that will solve most problems, in my experience anyway.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
[QUOTE=hermancm;11852986]Thanks for the reply! I did a search of the forum and to pull the shaft and all I'd have to pull the axles out some too. I suppose that means brakes and bearings and the whole sha-bang! HS!
No, you do not have to the brakes to get the axles out, just the brake drums. the four bolts that hold the axles in are inside the backing plates, access though the hole in the end of the axle.
No, you do not have to the brakes to get the axles out, just the brake drums. the four bolts that hold the axles in are inside the backing plates, access though the hole in the end of the axle.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Halifx Pa
Yup, and once you pull those axles out of a rear thats been together for 30 plus years, you may find more then you bargained for. Or at least axle seals that now want to leak since they have been disturbed. You could end up with dumping $300 into a rear you were not anticipating on.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Winter, WI
I found a web page on rebuilding the Ford 9 inch with pictures and yes, they just had the drum removed and the axles pulled out a foot or so. But I'll go ahead and suck out the fluid and refill then call it good. That'll be after I replace the oil pan gasket that has blown out by the starter. A mechanic told me it was a common problem on the 4.9L's. He also said that I can replace the gasket without pulling the motor on a 2WD. 
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
I run Royal Purple 80w/90 and a dose of LSD additive to keep the Trac-Lok alive.
The drum brakes need not be removed. Simply reach through the access hole and undo the axle retaining nuts to withdraw the axles. EZ. Unless ya mud bog often, installing a drain plug or other drain mechanism is just plain lazy IMO. It only takes about an hour to do it the factory way.
The drum brakes need not be removed. Simply reach through the access hole and undo the axle retaining nuts to withdraw the axles. EZ. Unless ya mud bog often, installing a drain plug or other drain mechanism is just plain lazy IMO. It only takes about an hour to do it the factory way.
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The easiest way is to remove the Pinion carrier and suck the fluid out. If you drop the 3rd member the oil will indeed drain (spill) out, but not all of it. So you'll need to suck or soak up the rest out anyways.
After that, drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a 1/4" NPT drain plug.
Josh
After that, drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a 1/4" NPT drain plug.
Josh
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Joined: Jan 2012
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The easiest way is to remove the Pinion carrier and suck the fluid out. If you drop the 3rd member the oil will indeed drain (spill) out, but not all of it. So you'll need to suck or soak up the rest out anyways.
After that, drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a 1/4" NPT drain plug.
Josh
After that, drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a 1/4" NPT drain plug.
Josh
And where is a good spot to drill a hole for the drain?
I remember asking about the hole on another thread some time ago, but they never posted back a response or pics.
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I drill dead center in the housing. Unless you're planning an extended magnet plug of some sort it isn't going to interfere with ring gear or anything.
The housing is plenty thick for a 1/8 or 1/4 pipe plug. Anything large than that will need a bung welded.
Don't remember on fluid capacity... I believe I usually bought around 3 quarts 80w90
Josh
The housing is plenty thick for a 1/8 or 1/4 pipe plug. Anything large than that will need a bung welded.
Don't remember on fluid capacity... I believe I usually bought around 3 quarts 80w90
Josh
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