Got my AE in a few hours ago and been playing with it. Before I get into the codes let me give a run down of history of problems. About 3 months ago truck lost all power. I diagnosed it to the hpop and pulled it and put a threaded plug in place of the blown out plug. I ran the truck without the plug in it for about 3 weeks until I figured out what was wrong with it. No choice only wheels I have. Truck kind of had a squealing sound faint but still a slight squealing sound after all this happened. The plug has been in hpop for about 1 1/2 months. It did seem to lag on power even after the plug though. Driving down road the other day and just lost all power was idling but no power at all would not move. Then idle starting getting lower and lower until died and willl not start back. I can turn it over and it sounds like it wants to fire over but it just won't. When it first happened I got it to fire a couple of times and it idled for about 10 secs. at 300 rpms.

IPR readings are 14.84 KOEO and 84.77 while cranking.
ICP readings are 490 to 510 while cranking, but it takes it a lil while to get there and even longer to get there when truck has been sitting for a day or so.

Here are codes.
P0299 Turbo underboost, I believe this to be because I have not put marmon clamps back on turbo after IPR swap, because I wanted to make sure it was gonna run first.

P0403 EGR Circuit and P0405 EGR sensor circuit low I believe these are due to EGR being unplugged.

P0603 Internal Control Module (KAM) Error I have no clue about this one.

P1000 OBD System Readiness Test not Complete

P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit

P22285 ICP Sensor Circuit Low

P2290 ICP too low

P2617 (CKP) Outpur Circuit Open

2004 late build

I think I may have a hpop that is dead but would like you guys suggestions on this. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I do know KAM is keep alive memory.

 

Have you tried to start ICP unplugged?????


IIRC that P2285 is a Bad ICP Sensor code try it unplugged


with all those codes theres a few things that will stop it from starting

 

Tried that already. Any other suggestions. Which codes would stop it from starting? So I can know what direction to travel in. I am thinking hpop or a couple of injectors out. It was raining earlier so I couldn't do a buzz test. I will give that a shot tomorrow and see. I have egr delete kit on the way and new oil cooler they should be here in next couple of days. Fuel pressure is good it is 63. I know I am about to get deep into the top end just want to make sure I get this fixed while I am in there.

 

I would start by making sure the batteries were charged and load tested.

Then inspect the wiring thoroughly (EGR, ICP, Fan Clutch, etc).

 

i was getting codes all over the place, and thought my main loom was
damaged during engine removal and replacement.... weird stuff, all
over the map... back up lights wouldn't work, every 5 miles you got
different codes..... then thought the alternator was going bad...
finally found the problem....

main battery cable lands on the starter solenoid, and has a cable
up to the main fuse block.

there was no nut on the binding post. installed nut, tightened.

zero problems since.

took a full day of insane troubleshooting to find it tho.

at least it was cheap to fix.

 

That KAM error can cause your truck to run like crap. An easy thing to try is to disconnect your batteries and go through the turbo relearn process.

This thread has the procedure. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...urbo-abcs.html

 

It says engine must be at operating temp. to do this relearn process and unfortunately I can't accomplish that right now.

What about this P0480 code Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit? I thought I remember reading somewhere that if Fan is not sensed it would cause truck to possibly not start. Anyone know anything about this code?

And also this one P2617 (CKP) Output Circuit Open would this cause to not start?

 

i had the 0480 code for a while before my rebuild...
a new fan clutch was what was needed.

 

the fan could stop it from starting

In Addition the HPO DTC could stop it from starting too

Take your Pic

oh and so could the Sync of the crank sensor

you have alot of options here that all will cause a NO Start

 

I cleared the codes and tried starting some more. Now I only get codes p2614 and p2617. cmp and ckp circuit open. I have ficm sync but my cmp/ckp sync is sporatic. It will show 1 then back to 0 anywhere from 2 to 5 times on a 20 sec. crank. Should I be looking at replacing the cmp, ckp, both, or neither without some further diagnosis.

Can you test injectors without running truck any other way besides the buzz test? And tell me if this is right please. When I buzz test I get a buzz then 4 sets of clicks then a buzz then 4 sets of clicks buzz then 4 sets of clicks. Does that sound right?

 

What is your engine RPM indicating, when you crank the engine over? Is it a consistent reading between 150 to 200?

What you should be getting when you run an injector buzz test, is BUZZ (all eight injectors cycling), and then EIGHT sets of clicks (each injector cycling individually) in cylinder numerical sequence (first cylinder #1, then cylinder #2, then cylinder #3 and so on, until cylinder #8), three times like you described. By what you describe, you have four injectors not cycling. Do you have your main FICM connectors secured properly?

 

Ok that is what I am getting. I thought the first click was injector cycling on and second was it cycling off. I got 8 clicks after each buzz, just did it again.
THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE MCHAN, so where do you suggest I go from here. I just checked my ICP again also it seems like it is getting lower and lower. I just got a high reading of 470 and a low reading while cranking of 430. Should I do a air test on hpo through icp? Do you know what fittting I will need to perform this? Would a ford dealership have this for sale?

 

Okay, I have to admit, I should've read your original post before replying. But reading through it now, leads me to believe your high pressure oil pump is needing replaced. By "blown out plug", I assume you mean the check ball that is supposed to be in place on the side of the pump. Now comes the million dollar question. WHERE DID THE BALL GO? As far as shop tools go, you would have to visit the Ford/Motorcraft Rotunda website to locate and purchase the tool you want. They won't be for sale at the dealership level.

 

The answer to the million dollar question is. I hope it is in the pan cause I sure couldn't find it up top.

Does anyone know what the fitting would be called to test hpo through the icp? Maybe could get it locally.