Sticking caliper?
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Philadelphia Area
Sticking caliper?
My 98 E250 has what appears to be an intermittently sticking left front caliper. I just bought the van last week, and the previous owner mentioned that occasionally the front breaks stick and the van pulls to one side, and that his mechanic said it was likely a sticking caliper. I drove it 400+ miles home and had no problems.
But over the weekend I was driving locally and all of a sudden I was having a very hard pull to the left that I had to fight hard. I pulled into a parking lot and got out to look; I smelled some brake smell, but wasn't sure if it was normal or not. When I got back in and drove away, all was fine. It hasn't reoccurred since.
It seems to me that if it was a bad caliper it would do it all the time, no? I also saw "radial pull" mentioned in previous posts, but, again, wouldn't that be consistent?
Thanks for any thoughts...
But over the weekend I was driving locally and all of a sudden I was having a very hard pull to the left that I had to fight hard. I pulled into a parking lot and got out to look; I smelled some brake smell, but wasn't sure if it was normal or not. When I got back in and drove away, all was fine. It hasn't reoccurred since.
It seems to me that if it was a bad caliper it would do it all the time, no? I also saw "radial pull" mentioned in previous posts, but, again, wouldn't that be consistent?
Thanks for any thoughts...
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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NO! "a very hard pull to the left" is NEVER "normal"!
However, when you have a "Sticking caliper" it does become "normal" to have "some brake smell" b/c the pad/rotor gets seriously overheated. Whenever there's "a very strong pull" & "brake smell" it should be considered an extremely serious warning.
A "Sticking caliper" isn't definitive, it's a generalization. Causes range from brake piston seizing from bad seal, to internal corrosion, to air or water in hydraulic system, to rusty caliper yoke failing to slide.
In each case pad can't retract properly, resulting in friction & excess heat. Pads/rotor don't cool off between brake applications. Heat can accumulate exascerbating the problem. Symptoms wouldn't be more consistent than brake use, stresses/heat can temporarily push past the seizing. But root cause remains, symptoms return & worsen until brakes overheat so severely they'll smoke & fail. When you had "brake smell" the pads/rotor were so hot if you doused w/water there'd be hissing, sizzling steam!
When tire belt separation causes "a very hard pull" there's no "brake smell".
However, when you have a "Sticking caliper" it does become "normal" to have "some brake smell" b/c the pad/rotor gets seriously overheated. Whenever there's "a very strong pull" & "brake smell" it should be considered an extremely serious warning.
A "Sticking caliper" isn't definitive, it's a generalization. Causes range from brake piston seizing from bad seal, to internal corrosion, to air or water in hydraulic system, to rusty caliper yoke failing to slide.
In each case pad can't retract properly, resulting in friction & excess heat. Pads/rotor don't cool off between brake applications. Heat can accumulate exascerbating the problem. Symptoms wouldn't be more consistent than brake use, stresses/heat can temporarily push past the seizing. But root cause remains, symptoms return & worsen until brakes overheat so severely they'll smoke & fail. When you had "brake smell" the pads/rotor were so hot if you doused w/water there'd be hissing, sizzling steam!
When tire belt separation causes "a very hard pull" there's no "brake smell".
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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time for you to buy a new caliper, and make sure its NOT made by cardone. note that certain chains of parts stores have no other options, so shop around if needed. orielly just has cardone, other lines of parts stores offer different brands, and personally i'd buy a part rebuild by a drunk monkey before i'd take one rebuilt by cardone.
and a quick word to the wise: when installing new brakes, GREASE the points where the pad and/or caliper rub against their mounting bracket. this prevents brake noise and excessive wear. on vehicles that use a pin sliding in a hole to mount the caliper, this prevents the common problem of seizing.
and you may want to replace the pads and at least that one rotor, as it likely warped as a result of the excessive heat
and a quick word to the wise: when installing new brakes, GREASE the points where the pad and/or caliper rub against their mounting bracket. this prevents brake noise and excessive wear. on vehicles that use a pin sliding in a hole to mount the caliper, this prevents the common problem of seizing.
and you may want to replace the pads and at least that one rotor, as it likely warped as a result of the excessive heat
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Ford now offers reman'd unloaded calipers for about $52 each if you enjoy a discount or buy them online from one of FTE's new Ford parts sponsors such as Tousley: Tousley Ford Parts Depot. Part number: F7TZ-2V121-AARM. I found mine at the local stealership but be forewarned there is a $70 core charge each----a huge incentive to return them ASAP! 
I'd suggest replacing the caliper slide bolts in the kit, p/n: 6C2Z-2C150-A. I use the MotorCraft pads, have served me very well.
I found the flexible hoses at Car Quest, USA made, about $22 each side; dealer was over $70.
Brakes are something I've never gone the cheap way when replacing---just not worth it any way we view it!
I'd suggest replacing the caliper slide bolts in the kit, p/n: 6C2Z-2C150-A. I use the MotorCraft pads, have served me very well.
I found the flexible hoses at Car Quest, USA made, about $22 each side; dealer was over $70.
Brakes are something I've never gone the cheap way when replacing---just not worth it any way we view it!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Philadelphia Area
Thanks folks! Good info about the rebuilt calipers, too. Bummer to hear about Cardone quality (lack of), though, as their HQ is 5 miles from my house and I went to high school with a Cardone daughter :-)
I'll try to stay OEM MotorCraft if possible. Thanks for the links and part numbers.
I'll try to stay OEM MotorCraft if possible. Thanks for the links and part numbers.
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: malvern,PA
I have been dealing with this issue myself for about 4 months on my 1995 club wagon.
Before you run out to buy the new rotor,pads etc for the problem wheel,try this as it finally worked for me and i no longer have the same pull to left braking issue.
What i did was pull the problem caliper off to access the brake pads.What i noticed during inspection was that the new brake pads i installed had a slight ridge of steel on them where they slide on the clips the caliper rests on. I took a file and lightly ground down the ridge (both pads on this side had it) and greased it up again and she stops perfectly straight now without me fighting the wheel.( I still hold the wheel tightly though from the past experiences heh).
Might be worth a try before you drop money on new parts,but this worked for me after trying to figure out the same problem you are having. Good luck!
Edit: By the way,i installed new rotors pads bearings and seals on both wheels and it still pulled left after 100 miles again.I ground off the ridges on the pads about 280 miles ago so its holding up pretty well for now.
Before you run out to buy the new rotor,pads etc for the problem wheel,try this as it finally worked for me and i no longer have the same pull to left braking issue.
What i did was pull the problem caliper off to access the brake pads.What i noticed during inspection was that the new brake pads i installed had a slight ridge of steel on them where they slide on the clips the caliper rests on. I took a file and lightly ground down the ridge (both pads on this side had it) and greased it up again and she stops perfectly straight now without me fighting the wheel.( I still hold the wheel tightly though from the past experiences heh).
Might be worth a try before you drop money on new parts,but this worked for me after trying to figure out the same problem you are having. Good luck!
Edit: By the way,i installed new rotors pads bearings and seals on both wheels and it still pulled left after 100 miles again.I ground off the ridges on the pads about 280 miles ago so its holding up pretty well for now.
Last edited by Driton; May 17, 2012 at 02:47 PM. Reason: added in the fact the rotors bearings and pads were new
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Postmaster
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thats interesting to hear about the bits of extra metal on the slide surfaces, what brand of pads were those? i usually buy Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads, and have never had such a problem, so i'm curious if its due to a questionable manufacturer, or if its a common problem on certain models
but whatever brand they were, the next step i would take on that van is inspecting the other side for the same problem, and correcting it if needed
but whatever brand they were, the next step i would take on that van is inspecting the other side for the same problem, and correcting it if needed
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Hey Driton do you happen to have a photo showing where this slight ridge might be found? I think I understand your description but something visual would be great. Even an old pad with a finger pointing to it.
Thanks------very interesting and worth checking into next pad change!
Thanks------very interesting and worth checking into next pad change!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Thanks Driton! 
I thought I understood your description but this makes it clear as day. Next pad change I'll be sure to check that area for anything that might cause the pad to catch or hang up.
Reps to you sir!
I thought I understood your description but this makes it clear as day. Next pad change I'll be sure to check that area for anything that might cause the pad to catch or hang up.
Reps to you sir!
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: malvern,PA
No problem JWA.
I used this forum and many others trying to diagnose why she kept turning hard left even after installing all new brake parts on front end along with brake fluid change. After every different suggestion led me nowhere,i stumbled on the casting ridge of both the old and new brake pads and said what the hell ive tried everything else. Couldnt believe that it worked(and still does....for now!)
I used this forum and many others trying to diagnose why she kept turning hard left even after installing all new brake parts on front end along with brake fluid change. After every different suggestion led me nowhere,i stumbled on the casting ridge of both the old and new brake pads and said what the hell ive tried everything else. Couldnt believe that it worked(and still does....for now!)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Ya know Driton I have an odd issue with my own braking system and probably much like you chased yours I'm doing the same. New rotors, calipers, pads, front hoses, rear wheel cylinders, shoes and new OEM master cylinder and it does the same thing as before: hard straight-line braking and it wants to pull right while the back end seems to want to step out to the left. I have more than enough stopping power but have to be prepared to counter steer under those conditions.
System has been bled properly, E brake cables working properly and ABS kicks in as it should too----odd issue to be sure.
Your discovery is helpful even as a general heads up on things that are possibly issues later on----thanks!!
System has been bled properly, E brake cables working properly and ABS kicks in as it should too----odd issue to be sure.
Your discovery is helpful even as a general heads up on things that are possibly issues later on----thanks!!
New User
Joined: May 2012
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caliper sticking
I have a 08 f250 and the back calipers froze up with 33,000 miles. I called ford... 1800-392-ford; they gave me a case number and told me to bring it to a ford service center to get it inspected. There is also a small slow leak in the radiator....two days later they tell me that they will not cover it because I don't have a strong record of buying cars through Ford...I have a copy of the letter! Seems backwards to me, shouldn't they back their product so I buy another Ford? Guess not! I called the number again and they told me there is nothing they can do and more people need to complain about the brake problems so there can be a recall...if there is a recall, I need to submit my receipts and they will reimburse me.
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