Came home from work last Friday to see smoke coming from the left front wheel well - just as I was pulling into the driveway. Definate brake issue smell. Slide pins were OK, but a piston was stuck. No replacement calipers in town so I compressed the pistons, freed the sticking one up, replaced the pads and re-installed. I am waiting on a new caliper from Tousley. In the mean time, I am watching the rotor temps w/ an IR temperature gun. After a moderate drive, the left front rotor is consistently 20-40 *F hotter than the other side, so I guess it is still sticking some. Hoopefully the new pads put the piston in a place that does not stick - at least until I can replace the caliper.

As I was mentioning this to a mechanic friend of mine at work, he told me that if I had repeat failures on a caliper, it might just actually be a bad brake line. The hose can collapse and not let brake fluid flow back to the master cylinder - effectively only tightening it when the pedal is pushed and never releasing. He suggest considering a brake line replacement when experiencing repeat caliper failures.

106k isn't bad for the first issue w/ brakes. I have been reading that we should be regularly flushing the brake fluid (and Tim has mentioned it more than once to me!!). I wish I had done this. I had the brake fluid for the job, just kept putting it off. I plan on flushing every 50k from now on!!

Interestingly enough, the old pads had ONLY 1/4 or so of the pads gone. They were in GREAT shape. I was very impressed w/ the OEM pad life!!

What do you all think of the brake line theory?? I did some searching and repeat caliper failures are not necessarily common, but it is not just an isolated occurrence either.

 

So this isnt the First time Your brake caliper stuck???

And if not the first time is it a repeat Failure at the same Location??

The colapsed brake line therory does make sense if nothing eles shows up. Last time I had one hang up on wifes car it was a slide pin not greased very well. And greasing the slid pins good has solved the problem.

I havent changed brake fluid in my truck yet either. Probably not a bad Idea to do.

 

I probably wasn't clear. This is the first time that the caliper stuck (that I can say for sure anyway). It seems to still be sticking some, so I kind of think of it as an on-going (issue or repeat failure waiting-to-happen).

After freeing it up and re-installing, I did see my fuel economy improve. Now, bear in mind that we have been having some windy conditions here, so it may be that I had more tail-wind than usual ....... but I really do think I am seeing an improvement. For about 6 months to a year, I have been getting 16-16.5 on the round trip to/from work. For the last two days, I am averaging a little over 18. Both of these readings are on the lie-o-meter. My actual mileage is 0.5 to 1 mpg less than the indication. We shall see over the next few days when the wind returns to normal.

 

Mark Brake lines can and due collapse on the inside and will drive you nuts trying to figure it out. They look good
from the outside.

 

I've never had this issue but It can and does occure quite regularly. Might be a good time for some stainless brake lines, Mark. They're supposed to improve braking performance also.

 

They, S.S, don't expand as much as rubber hoses. The brakes, optimily, should be flushed every other year. The fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture causing internal corrosion.

 

I would bet you that brake fluid is one of if not the MOST neglected fluid on a vehicle. I was amazed the first time I flushed mine at much the brakes improved. I also wonder if it contributes to "warped" rotors from uneven braking.

 

I have never wore out a set of pads but am on my third set of rotors from being warped , yall may be on to something.

 

I have never in my life flushed out brake lines or the whole system ...Anyone have any pointers on how i would do such a thing ? Id like to try it just to see if helps the braking at all ...

 

The hose that is coiled up to the left is for bleeding brakes. Once you get the hang of it, you can flush a brake system in about 15 minutes, depending on the vehicle obviously. I paid a bill for mine at Steve's Wholesale. I also use it to evacuate the oil from my Jetta TDI. The oil filter is much like 6.0 design, so I don't have to get underneath anymore!!

http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/07300.jpg

 

on one bike i used to own i had issues with the calipers sticking. actually the pistons sticking in their bore. i disassembled them, and cleaned the o-rings, and the grooves, polished the pistons a bit with a superfine plumbers paper, reused all the o-rings, and completely eliminated all the sticking.the grunge that accumulated behind the o-rings forced them too tightly against the pistons which hindered retraction

 

Anyone have to replace/bleed their ABS module?

I know that AutoEnginuity can run the program, but what other scan tools can do it?

 

mark I have seen failed brake lines. not common but it happens. If I was gonna change one I would do both and install stainlessas said prior.

 

Oddly enough, I started out Monday to flush my brake fluid, something I do at regular intervals on my vehicles. Surprise! I ended up having to replace both rear calipers and pads and turn both rotors due to glazing. Upon inspection, the fronts were dragging and the inside of one rotor was glazed, the other the slide pin was frozen. No squeeks extreme heating or other brake related issues were evident prior to me catching any of this. The common issue I found among all four corners was the inside pad was frozen/rusted in the caliper on the ends where the clips go and didnt "spring" freely away from the rotor like the outer pads seemed to. On the fronts the inside pads clips were bent to the point where they were ineffective and the pad was tight to the rotor and dragging. At some point they were actuated by the caliper and just jammed in their mounting groove and stayed engaged. Once the caliper was removed the outboard pad moved freely and the little spring clips kept the pad away from the rotor as I assume they were designed to do. Maybe the inner pad not "springing" away from the rotor is what is toasting calipers? The inner pads were so frozen and jammed in there I had to destroy them to remove them. One thing I did notice was that those clips on motorcraft pads look to be more substantial than the ones wagner thermoquiet pads or other brands come with. I added some caliper grease to the pad seats/mounting points on the calipers in hopes of slowing or eliminating this rusting/seizing issue. Admittedly I dont know how these are supposed to work in theory but I'm going to start checking these inner pads a couple times a year at least. Again, just one man's observation and experience.

 

Thanks for the posts and suggestions!

I have already received two new calipers.

Am looking into the stainless lines. Seems like there are a number of choices. Anyone have any endorsements / recommendations??

Here is a set that looks good:

Superduty Stainless Kevlar Braided Brakelines

and

Crown Brake Lines - Ford Super Duty 05-08 - 02-inch Lift

and possibly

Russell 696510 Brake Hose Kit
Russell Performance - Russell Brake Lines - Russell Hoses & Lines