Piston Coating waste. Balance rotating assembly better.

 

Why?? As I already stated the bottom end of these motors are pretty strong. There is absolutly no reason to mess with any of it, unless you are talking putting down big numbers. There is a guy on PSN with 1,000 HP that has proven that the stock bottom end can hold up to lots of power.

 

Never hurts to balance motor.

 

Okay, So i have prepared myself to put in all of the for-mentioned parts(ARP HS, OEM gasket, BPD egr COOLER, blue spring, new injector seals, BPD oil to air cooler w/ cold weather package, FASS that i haven't received yet, new stand pipes, new IPR, etc.) I have half of everything needed done to remove the cab to make the installation of all of these parts a hell of a lot easier. My question is.. What are the best lift points on the crews? I thought about making brackets to lift from but that would be entirely too time consuming i am trying to get the truck ready in two weeks, and i work 80+ hours a week. Please everyone throw ideas out, and for the record I AM TAKING the cab OFF. Don't try to discourage me i am already heels deep in this i just need ideas. Proven effective measures would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

Also, i have a fork lift and a track-hoe.... and two 5000lb straps to work with. So far...

 

Am i being unreasonable here? come on i have only been into diesel scene for 6 months and so far i am loving it... but i need info i have googled myself to death trying to find this info.. and haven't been able to find it in any post. only reasons why you shouldn't do the cab off...

 

I have some info on cab removal I can post or send you later on this evening. PM me an email address if you want me to send what I have.

 

Head gasket replacement, by lifting the cab:
6.0 Powerstroke Headgaskets Replacement Pictoral Step by Step - Ford Truck Fanatics
Cab off Procedure - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Instructions by m-chan68:

"Begin by positioning the vehicle onto the hoist where it can be lifted. Roll the vehicle straight backwards just until you can open all four doors without hitting the posts of the hoist. Remove the rear seat (18mm nuts and TX-50 bolts I think). Remove all four door opening scuff plates by simply prying on them gently. Once the rear seat is removed, lift up on the carpet to expose the rear cab mount bolts. You will need a 24mm or 15/16"" socket for the bolt on the driver side, and a 21mm or 13/16"" socket for the bolt on the passenger side. Once removed, lift up on the carpet until access can be gained to the middle row bolts, just behind the front seats. You will see a rubber grommet plug to remove before you have access to the bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16"" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16"". Remove both the driver and passenger side kick panels. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the steering coupler to the steering column, and once removed, telescope the lower shaft all the way through the firewall. Roll up the carpet on both driver and passenger sides to expose the grommets covering the front cab mount bolts.
Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16"" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16"".
Once removed, this concludes everything needed to remove from inside the vehicle. Roll the vehicle forward to position it onto the lift."

"Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4"" radiator drain pet****. Disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging.
Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support."

Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the MAP sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the MAP sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total).

"Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the MAF sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three PCM main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them).
Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).
"

Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point.

Also:
Of course the amount of cab bolts differ depending on cab config. Crew cabs have 8 bolts and the rear seat DO need to be removed. Reg and ext cabs have 6 bolts and the reg cab can be accessed by tilting the seat forward, and the extended cabs just lift the backrest to the rear seat out.
"Update to the method on trucks with crew cab body configurations:
Instead of removing the rear seat (which can be awkward and heavy, especially the ones equipped with a utility tray underneath), unbolt both front seats so that the carpet can be flexed just enough to access the grommet and the middle row cab bolts.
"

 

never mind about the email address - my PC crashed not long ago and I can't find the material I was looking for (at least not yet).

 

Thats the worst PC Crash Mark Man All the time you have spent doing reaserch and stuff hope you can recover it Good Luck

Iv been thinking about making a Backup with all the info Iv saved from you and stuff that has come up in all the threads. If mine crashed some of the info I have saved I probably would never Find again not to mention all my bills and info that gets saved on a PC now a Days


To the OP Not to many of us have the ability to lift the Cab so most do it Cab On or take it to a Shop. Iv only seen a couple guys here that had the ability to lift the Cab and went that route

that said^^^ would be awesome if you made some notes about it as you go about it

Good Luck with it

 

You know, I hadn't seen anything on the tranny or on the turbo.

If you want more efficiency out of those injectors, at least to make it worth having those bigger injectors then you are going to need something to clear up all that fuel. Even with a 64mm turbo, those injectors can still smoke quite a bit when doing WOT from a dead stop if you don't watch it. I can peak out a 1600°F pyro in 5 seconds doing that.

My stock tranny lasted a year with my mods, which aren't all that different then yours other then I'm still running stock EGR system, however, I'm also towing ~16k in horse and horse related crapola averaging about 36k-40k miles a year. Yours might last longer if you don't abuse it with those mods. Otherwise it won't take long for your direct clutch to burn up on you. Which is the only weak point that I know of on this trannys (if you have auto, if you don't disregard, but I would look for a stronger clutch).

 

Thanks Blade i will try to take pictures and all once i figure out how i am actually going to do this... Bismic, Awesome, but one little issue lol I have no lift. I am attempting to cab off without one. I actually read that you can use a 6x6 after you lift the cab off the frame to lift further. I don't even know where i found it after no replies i went back to googling my *** off... And sorry about the computer man i feel you i have had it happen more than once. And tex I do have an auto but I never haul anything more than a boat to go fishing. And most of the time it's a little 400lb aluminum boat and trailer so hopefully I won't have my tranny go.. It's still under warranty from the stealership so if it does go, i'll reflash and reset. I Plan on going with a Suncoast or ATS package if it does though. As for the turbo... i was looking at the powermax. I want to stay VGT

 

Suncoast heavy duty rebuilt. It's what I use. Now you can put other other tranny fluids in there with that rebuild, but I would actually stick with Ford's TF. Not worth it in the long run to switch to a cheaper brand in my book.

As to turbo, if you go with a powermax, see if they can put a tighter housing on it. You might see some lag with it as I don't think it's any bigger then a stock one.

What gears are you running? That might also help with town traffic dealing with the lag.

Now RCD's injectors you can pull some fuel out of it, I think you can pull more with Casserly's injectors (what I have) then RCDs, but I digress.

 

all PT from the engine back is stock, i believe i have 3.73's and with the 35's i run about 75mph @ 1800rpm? And what about the powermax w/ deflector switch? I believe that is what it's called. And i am a die hard Royal purple fan.. I have used it in all my other vehicles which were gas burners, so i have been cautious and haven't used it in my PS yet. I would probably use their full synthetic ATF though... I don't see why it would hurt it has better wear resistance than all the others am i right?

 

I correct myself... turbine diverter valve