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I have a 52 F-7 that I am planning to install a new engine tranny combo, the last time I did this I think I screwed up the angles of the driveshaft in relation to the rear-end.
I can put the engine tranny anywhere I want ( within reason ) but I am not clear on how to get the proper angles.
I am hoping someone can give me dummied down ideas on how I need to set this up.
I have two driveshafts with a carrier bearing mounted to frame in center of two shafts.
Looking at it from the side if I could see thru the frame if I were to put an inclinometer on the output shaft of the transmission what should I be reading?
Moving on back to the carrier bearing what might that scenario be, should I try and get the carrier bearing and the output shaft of the tranny at the same height?
Going to the rear of the carrier bearing how would this bearing be in relation to the angle of the rear axle.
Also looking at it as if I were looking down, how would I get the engine/tranny parallel with the frame so its not sitting in there crooked.'
Same sort of questions apply to this different view as what I have asked above.
I know there is alot of info on-line I have been scanning but my reading comprehension is poor and my attention span is even worse, again, hoping I can get some simple/easy to understand responses. Thanks
I would say the intermediate shaft should be straight in line with the tail shaft (transmission shaft centerline). Face of carrier barring should mimic the transmission end of a one piece shaft. I am sure someone will chime in and let us know if my assumptions are correct.
I'll preface my statement with this disclaimer... I don't know diddly about two shaft setups... but common sense seems to make me think this.
fact....If it has universal joints on each end..... it needs 'some' angle to make the joint work properly... if the ends are straight, all the torque is placed on the same set of bearings... if it has at least some angle the bearings will move and rotate around the shaft creating equal wear on the needles.
opinion...I'd put a minimum of 2° on the intermediate shaft and parallel the final drive shaft to the engine crank center line... your engine should tilt down at the back 2-3° and the rear end parallel that line...
whatever you do in the middle shouldn't really matter AS LONG AS you stay in the acceptable angle of the universal joint... weird u-joint angles cause weird problems and early failure.
the main thing is that the engine/transmission center line has to be parallel with the rear end (pinion) centerline as you read in my article...
the ravine jumpers and rock climbers have a different set of rules due to their extreme suspension movement and angle changes...
but for a big ole' truck that won't be grabbin air... this should work...
someone will be along shortly to prove me wrong and set you right I'm sure... I can't find any pertinent info on double shaft setups on the net... you might want to check with a local spring/suspension shop that deals with larger trucks... the guys that make drive shafts...
Here is everything you could possibly want to know on the subject coming from "THE" driveline and u-joint authority. Anything found in this booklet may be regarded as gospel and fact. Your sphere of interest begins on page 13.
Thanks everyone for the replies much appreciated, along with the well written easy to understand article mention in a previous post I would like to add this one, for me it was not difficult to understand and is getting closer to being relative to what I am working with.......http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFi...&TID=28&FN=PDF
Can one of you guys get me started on the right track on how to get the engine between the frame-rails straight, looking down I mean as if there were no cab and no bed, I have read on the article above that it does not matter if it is off to one side so long as it is straight in the hole.