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May 27, 2012 | 02:27 PM

#16

madpogue

Lead Driver

Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 8,476

Likes: 37

From: Madison, WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by 444fan

ended up buying a new multimeter, tried testing the power at the safety switch while cranking, got 9.6 volts while cranking, is this too low, oh and that was without putting the clutch to the floor.

One side of the switch will show voltage without pushing the clutch. The other side will only show voltage when pushing the clutch. You are checking each terminal to ground, right? It makes no sense to test voltage across a switch.

May 31, 2012 | 09:08 AM

#17

444fan

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 42

Likes: 0

From: ontario canada

oh this truck, arghh, changed all the inj. o-rings, still getting some smoke, fuel still dirty maybe it's just the leftover dirty fuel going thru?
also is it possible to have too much fuel on the lower end of the rpm range?
i,m getting over 50psi for fuel psi. i checked with a tire gauge to get an idea.
my home computer clunked out so it's a welcome sight to see some replies for the ignition problem. terminal to ground then, back to the drawing board....

May 31, 2012 | 09:14 AM

#18

DIYMechanic

Post Fiend

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 10,121

Likes: 3

From: Orrville, Ohio

If you're still getting some smoke, my guess is that your injectors are just a little sloppy, the nozzles are worn or dirty and you're not getting a good atomization. Did you get a look at the nozzles when you changed the o-rings? Did they happen to have any carbon buildup on them? Mine was smoking a lot all the time and it ended up just being a very dirty and tired set of injectors. 50 PSI is actually fine. In fact it may be a little on the low side. We usually like to see around 60-65 PSI at idle. You may want to shim the Fuel Pressure Regulator to up the pressure a little. Here is a link:
TikiWiki : Shim Your Fuel Pressure Regulator 94-97

Keep working at it. These trucks can be a little quirky at at times but they will run forever if you can deal with tinkering with them from time to time.

May 31, 2012 | 10:07 AM

#19

Dutch Semi

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 182

Likes: 0

First off, WELCOME! This board has a great bunch of guys that are very knowledgable. I would put my laptop in my toolbox if I could because FTE is as reliable as the old 3/8" ratchet.

As for your smoking issue, I would recommend testing your GPR (Glow Plug Relay) and also testing/replacing your GP's (Glow Plugs). If you are going to put new O-ring's on your injector's, you might as well change them while you are in there. Make sure to buy Motorcraft (Ford OEM) or Beru, as parts store brands have a tendency to mushroom and make life hell if they need to be replaced in the future. My local Ford stealership carries them for a $13.xx, it is much cheaper to go to Clay at Riffraffdiesel.com. Great, quick service, better prices.

-Joseph

Jun 7, 2012 | 08:02 AM

#20

444fan

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 42

Likes: 0

From: ontario canada

thanks for all the advice everyone.
gonna take in the truck for safety today or tomorrow!
at start up it smokes but once warmed up, some to no smoke at all.
i was going to check the lil square under the solenoid of the injectors but got to anxious to see the results of the o-ring upgrade. the injectors had some carbon but not as much as i was expecting. next up i want to do a electric fan setup once the water pump comes in, also is there a different thermostat than the stock one or an upgraded kind?
as for the ignition problem, i'm gonna let the shop deal with it. i'm just so lazy when it comes to wiring, i know it's easy but....
once the truck is road ready I'll get some pics up.

Jun 17, 2012 | 05:47 PM

#21

444fan

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 42

Likes: 0

From: ontario canada

took the truck in for safety, had the wrong hanger-bearing, shop ordered new one and new u-joints for the whole driveshaft, didn't want the u-joints changed but at least I won't have to worry about them.
On the way to the auto shop and while cruising around, I noticed that once the truck warms up and going up a hill or grade, it seems like that somethings turns off, check engine comes on, and my boost goes down.
It will go to 3k rpm's when warm but bogs down after it gets hot.
Would that be my hpop or my ipr going bad?