first time posting...
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
first time posting...
Hi
I'll start off by saying I tried looking a for a intro section, can't seem to find it.
Anyways, I bought my 97 powerstroke one year ago, after it's been sitting for nearly two years. I replaced all the lil things like sensors or even just cleaning them, and the truck runs better than the first day I got it. I'm trying to get it on the road but I'm blocked by an ignition/key problem(I've been using a jumper wire to start) I'm not getting power while cranking and I want a proper fix. Any ideas anyone?
Also, do XL model trucks come with A/C and tilt steering columns?
I'll start off by saying I tried looking a for a intro section, can't seem to find it.
Anyways, I bought my 97 powerstroke one year ago, after it's been sitting for nearly two years. I replaced all the lil things like sensors or even just cleaning them, and the truck runs better than the first day I got it. I'm trying to get it on the road but I'm blocked by an ignition/key problem(I've been using a jumper wire to start) I'm not getting power while cranking and I want a proper fix. Any ideas anyone?
Also, do XL model trucks come with A/C and tilt steering columns?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Welcome to the site! Sounds like you have a nice truck there.
As far as the starting issue goes, where are you putting the jumper to start the truck? When you turn the key do you get a "click" under the hood or no? And what do you mean by saying that you're not getting power while cranking?
And yes, you could get an XL truck with tilt wheel and A/C. I had one as a parts truck until just recently.
As far as the starting issue goes, where are you putting the jumper to start the truck? When you turn the key do you get a "click" under the hood or no? And what do you mean by saying that you're not getting power while cranking?
And yes, you could get an XL truck with tilt wheel and A/C. I had one as a parts truck until just recently.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
thanks for the replies!
It's a stick, it's has new batteries and I do here a click under the hood. When i go to turn the key to "start" it does nothing, go back to "run" and the dash/other stuff powers on. Also I've replaced the bushing to the clutch pedal itself but not the whole bar that the pedals attach to. Oh and the jumper wire, I got a wire running from the lil top post on the solenoid on the fender to a open source on the dash fuse panel.
Over the past year I've been reading up on the fixes and other stuff on this site, I'm really glad it's here cause no one close to me seems to know anything about these engines.
It's a stick, it's has new batteries and I do here a click under the hood. When i go to turn the key to "start" it does nothing, go back to "run" and the dash/other stuff powers on. Also I've replaced the bushing to the clutch pedal itself but not the whole bar that the pedals attach to. Oh and the jumper wire, I got a wire running from the lil top post on the solenoid on the fender to a open source on the dash fuse panel.
Over the past year I've been reading up on the fixes and other stuff on this site, I'm really glad it's here cause no one close to me seems to know anything about these engines.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
So when you turn the key to the "run"position you get a click (probably the Glow Plug Relay --GPR) but when you turn the key to the "start" position you get nothing? That sounds to me like you either have a failed safety, or a bad starter relay.
I just have to ask, because, well I just have to. You are pressing the clutch in when you try to start it right? The safety switch on the clutch will prevent you from starting the truck without pressing the clutch in. Any chance that the switch got unplugged when your replaced the clutch pedal bushings?
I just have to ask, because, well I just have to. You are pressing the clutch in when you try to start it right? The safety switch on the clutch will prevent you from starting the truck without pressing the clutch in. Any chance that the switch got unplugged when your replaced the clutch pedal bushings?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
Which is the starter relay?
The safety switch, is that the part that goes over the rod?, I've replaced that. I've been pushing it to the floor.
The safety switch, is that the part that goes over the rod?, I've replaced that. I've been pushing it to the floor.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Welcome! If the bushing where the pedal arm connects to the pushrod is worn (and these trucks are famous for that), it might not be pushing the pushrod all the way and closing the switch. Is the switch located all the way forward, as far against the firewall as it will go? You can also, as a test, jumper the switch; put a jumper wire between the two terminals closest to the firewall on the connector. If that lets you start the truck with the key, that's where your trouble is. If still no start, look elsewhere -- ignition switch, starter relay, etc. The relay is on the passenger inner fender.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
maybe I'm getting confused, is the starter solenoid on the fender a relay or a solenoid? I've changed that once already...fords and there relays, lol.
do you know which colors the wires are off the safety switch, just to be sure which wires I'm jumping?
Also I've noticed that the ignition switch has been changed before and it seems loose.
My other truck has a working relay, i'll try and switch the two and try that.
once again thanks for the replies.
do you know which colors the wires are off the safety switch, just to be sure which wires I'm jumping?
Also I've noticed that the ignition switch has been changed before and it seems loose.
My other truck has a working relay, i'll try and switch the two and try that.
once again thanks for the replies.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
It's a relay. The solenoid is on the starter. Lotta folks (even some parts listings) call the fender relay a solenoid, but that just confuses the issue.
The starter wires on the safety switch are both Red / Light Blue, at least in '95 they were. Hopefully they didn't change it in '97. Again, it's the two wires closest to the firewall on the connector.
The starter wires on the safety switch are both Red / Light Blue, at least in '95 they were. Hopefully they didn't change it in '97. Again, it's the two wires closest to the firewall on the connector.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
I tried both relays, both work. Tried the jumper wire both times, with old relay and borrowed relay, no go. I changed the bushing to the safety switch and the safety switch is new from napa. I was thinking of trying to pull the ignition switch and see whats there. Oh yeah, my high beam indicator doesn't come on now, it used to come on when the high beam switch was off and turn off when the high beams were on, would that affect anything?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Before you start digging into the column, start testing. Put a voltmeter on the small wire terminal on the fender relay and have an assistant turn the key to START (foot on clutch, of course). If you get voltage there, the problem is downstream - main battery/starter cables, starter, ground, etc. Poss. even the wire from the relay down to the starter.
If you don't, the problem is upstream - safety switch, ignition switch, wiring, etc. In that case, do the same test at the safety switch; should have voltage when you turn the key to START.
If you don't, the problem is upstream - safety switch, ignition switch, wiring, etc. In that case, do the same test at the safety switch; should have voltage when you turn the key to START.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
a week later, i find a broken rubber booted small wire for the fender relay, cut and replaced, the wire to the starter runs straight down to the starter and seems ok physically and my battery cable clamps look like junk but are tight.
i've been putting the voltmeter test off just cause I hate monkeying around upside down in a cramped place like the underside of a dashboard, arghh but in other news i order some injector o-rings, just waiting on those in the mean time.
while i'm waiting, can someone point me to a good article on pluggin up the ebvp pedestal with good pictures in it.
i've been putting the voltmeter test off just cause I hate monkeying around upside down in a cramped place like the underside of a dashboard, arghh but in other news i order some injector o-rings, just waiting on those in the mean time.
while i'm waiting, can someone point me to a good article on pluggin up the ebvp pedestal with good pictures in it.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pv+rod+removal
I did the way gobstopper shows in this thread.
I did the way gobstopper shows in this thread.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: ontario canada
ended up buying a new multimeter, tried testing the power at the safety switch while cranking, got 9.6 volts while cranking, is this too low, oh and that was without putting the clutch to the floor.
haven't tried testing at the fender relay yet, waitin on help.
also picked up a starter push button and another type of push button just in case i need to start from scratch.
haven't tried testing at the fender relay yet, waitin on help.
also picked up a starter push button and another type of push button just in case i need to start from scratch.