Turbo Compressor Wheel
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Turbo Compressor Wheel
Guy,s
I have finally ordered my parts from RiffRaff diesel and am waiting for them to arrive. I will be doing the compressor wheel, actuator and hi flow outlet on the turbo as well as the up pipes and EBPV pedestal delete. Speaking with a guy today who does turbos, he reckons that the turbo will have to be re balanced after adding the Banks Wicked Wheel. Does anyone know if this is true or not.
I have finally ordered my parts from RiffRaff diesel and am waiting for them to arrive. I will be doing the compressor wheel, actuator and hi flow outlet on the turbo as well as the up pipes and EBPV pedestal delete. Speaking with a guy today who does turbos, he reckons that the turbo will have to be re balanced after adding the Banks Wicked Wheel. Does anyone know if this is true or not.
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Nope, it's already balanced, your good to install.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Canberra Australia
Hi Wallsy,
while you are doing the above you should also seriously consider doing:
1) IC boot kit and plenum strengthening inserts (otherwise you'll be putting the crappy stock ones back on and will loose some of the benefit of the WW);
2) AIH delete (you'll loose some of the benefit of the upgraded the turbo outlet by having the turbo inlet restricted by the AIH);
3) 6637 filter kit, either the AFE 6637, or the AFE stage 2 kit, if your budget can cover it, (with less restricted turbo outlet and inlet you'll need to get more air through the air filter - so get a bigger one), and;
4) do the Zoodad mod (more air coming in the inlet spout of the air filter housing help get more intake air).
Also I'd see if you can re-route the heater lines so that stay over on the left hand side of the engine bay. Doing your turbo and up-pipe work over the top of those heater lines will be a pain in the neck. Rerouting them by moving the coolant cut off valve over to the left side will save a lot of headaches once you start your work proper.
Have fun and let us know how you go with the mods and how your truck goes after them!
BTW, 1, 2 and 3 above are available via Riff Raff. Number 4 you do yourself and it costs nothing in parts!
while you are doing the above you should also seriously consider doing:
1) IC boot kit and plenum strengthening inserts (otherwise you'll be putting the crappy stock ones back on and will loose some of the benefit of the WW);
2) AIH delete (you'll loose some of the benefit of the upgraded the turbo outlet by having the turbo inlet restricted by the AIH);
3) 6637 filter kit, either the AFE 6637, or the AFE stage 2 kit, if your budget can cover it, (with less restricted turbo outlet and inlet you'll need to get more air through the air filter - so get a bigger one), and;
4) do the Zoodad mod (more air coming in the inlet spout of the air filter housing help get more intake air).
Also I'd see if you can re-route the heater lines so that stay over on the left hand side of the engine bay. Doing your turbo and up-pipe work over the top of those heater lines will be a pain in the neck. Rerouting them by moving the coolant cut off valve over to the left side will save a lot of headaches once you start your work proper.
Have fun and let us know how you go with the mods and how your truck goes after them!
BTW, 1, 2 and 3 above are available via Riff Raff. Number 4 you do yourself and it costs nothing in parts!
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I am doing the AIH delete, just forgot to mention it. I am seriously looking at the Banks air ram intake and doing the zoodad with that. With all these mods it must go better, because it is going crap at the moment.
Posting Guru
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From: Canberra Australia
It WONT go any better if your stock IC boots are leaking or ballooning out!
They'll just leak and/or balloon out more!
IC boots are virtually a necessity with your intake, turbo, and outlet mods. Do them now while you've got the thing apart, or risk having to pull it apart two days/weeks/etc after you've finished because you split the stock boots!
I forgot to also suggest that you scape all that foil off your IC pipe while its off your vehicle. Then you would have also done the 'foil delete' mod!
They'll just leak and/or balloon out more!
IC boots are virtually a necessity with your intake, turbo, and outlet mods. Do them now while you've got the thing apart, or risk having to pull it apart two days/weeks/etc after you've finished because you split the stock boots!
I forgot to also suggest that you scape all that foil off your IC pipe while its off your vehicle. Then you would have also done the 'foil delete' mod!
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Man Cave
You are on the right track m8. First things first and get your boost leaks sorted. Why you are there check the shaft play on the compressor wheel. A little side to side is alright as long as there is no contact. In and out play is no good. If you are ever coming down to Sydney give us a yell and I can hook up my AE and run some tests and see if that shows anything of interest.. One other thing that I believe is a must and that is gauges. EGT's, Trans temp and boost.
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The toecutter he knows who i am.
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I will check the IC boots, but am not expecting any issues. The engine is still low miliage, 110,000km. I have done the foil delete you suggested. The truck has a Banks temp guage fitted for the transmission temp, just no boost guage. Thanks for the offer of the AE. I will take you up on that if I am down that way. It this stage, I think I will just have to pull it all apart and check everything. Then I can order what is stuffed or not eg IC boot kit. I don't think there is anything else I need, I hope.
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