OK brotha's ...The old lady done gave me the O-KAY to drive some money into this hog and Im here for support, help, advice, guidance, and most of all B*LL Busting!!! Oh and also I am not sure about some things and will be asking questions and checking tech folders simutaneously. Also If anyone is in Ohio near Fremont/Sandusky area I would love some help.

Here's my list of to dos and will last over a period of less than a year(shooting for 6 months) and I will go in chronological order. 2006 F250 Lariat Crewcab 7ft bed

1. FICM off to ed- I had tried resoldering and it did ok with the white smoke puff in mornings but it still stinks like all get out...all the time. Gas mileage had gotten slightly better but not where it was (around 22mpg hwy). So off it goes!

2. Sinister Basic Solution EGR delete, coolant filter, oil cooler kit- Now this will be done all at once obviously and for good reasons...I dont want to buy a motor. I have seen most people are running the SCT tuner to rid the CEL (06 model here) but which SCT model? Also do most people do a turbo down pipe and/or exhaust around this time, I really want to scrap my cat also. Im assuming I will be doing a full coolant flush either before or after the coolant filter upgrade, probably before huh

3. Scangauge2- I have it but didnt realize you could get one with the program for the 6.0 , So Im wondering can I just download all the gauges I need like EOT, BOOST, etc...

4.High Idle- Tell me about this...

5. Tires- The ford dealership here are a bunch of cant say on this website, needless to say when they replaced my lower ball joints they said they aligned it...Well my front tires are toed out so bad they are feathered on one side and balding on the other outer edge. Two front tires toast, and I went to them and they told me I need to rotate every 3k miles.. Oh How I almost beat this manager! They are Nitto terra grapplers and I plan on replacing with the same.

Oh if there is anything I missed or you would recommend before something else let me know so I can adjust.

Thanks in advance.

 

1. Mine is on it's way back from Ed today.

3. You can load a bunch of gauges into your SGII. Thing is. YOU HAVE TO DO IT MANUALLY, but it isn't that bad once you have done a few. Check the SGII website under Xgauges for Ford.

Or here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10227382

4. Needed if you do a lot of idling. Raises the idle to 1200 rpms.

Here is a thread on it for your 06:

Howto: 05-06 High Idle (AIC/SEIC/BCP) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

(There was a different thread in the tech folder that linked to the 05-07 high idle. But I see that link is dead. So need to use the one above.)

 

While your doing the oil cooler put some arps in as well. Your going to be a lot happier if you never have to go back in for head gaskets. For the egr delete I run a sct. I prefer having a programer and seprate gauges. I'm not a fan of the sct all in one package anyway. I use a sct x2 it is no longer avalible new so you will probably want a x3. As long as it is for a ford application and unlocked you can get custom tuning. Tunes will cost you $50-100 bucks each and a lot of vendors offer packages on tuning and tuner/tuning packages. If you buy a sct unless you get it for extremely cheap like less that $200 I'd buy it from someone that has a tunes included deal. If your dead set on a all in one programmer/ gauges contact bill at power hungry performance. He has a custom tuner which is basically a edge evoloution that has be custom tuned they call it a gryphoon. He has done quite a bit with their 04 shop truck and is making impressive power. Also the digital gauges are very nice and versitile.

 

there's no "program" for the 6.0 in a Scangauge. The XGauges are just sets of numbers and letters that you copy into it. If you bought one already "programmed" for the 6.0, you've paid extra for somebody else to sit and type in numbers. ESPECIALLY since you already have one, just forget that, and do it yourself.

 

Here's a fun and informative post on the high idle mod:

High Idle Mod

Quote de arcturner
Jim: That's a great idea. If you figure it out, please post the details.
Ok, this may be a bit complicated, but pay attention - you can do this. Once completed, one UpFitter switch will raise the idle to 1200 rpm (6.0L).*

Project Cost: $47,560 (including truck)
Project Time: 4-6 weeks (includes truck ordering, building, & delivery time)

You will need the following:
1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum*
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)
Optional:
1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree *
1pr - non-conductive footwear
Directions:
Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends) as noted in this photo:

Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:
Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed
Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.

There are many options available (higher rpm, gas engine information, E-series, etc) and all are noted in this document I noted in my first post in this thread (thanks Y-Guy).

Happy Hi-Idling!

Jim*


i haven't done this mod yet but i found this*
SEIC or BCP Wire?

You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your transmission), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire with the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).