Hi,
I want to know if this is normal.
What I found or didn't find
Cut it open and all I found was some slime like
stuff if you gave the paper elements a good squeeze.
Sort of like thickened coolant.
It was drained and sat on the bench for a day or so.
I did not find any sand or flakes.
The Ford Dealership had done a flush and head gasket
replacement along with the oil cooler before I purchased
it. it has Motorcraft gold in it.
The question is : Am I good ?
Thanks
Sean

 

Sounds like you are good.

 

I dont know How anyone could say YES or NO at this point You MUST compare the ECT & EOT Deltas

IMO only GOD Knows at this point

I Sounds like Ford Gold Silicate Fallout or the good old golden goo
this is why I went with a ELC CAT EC-1 Silicate Free
(Extended life Coolant)

If it was me Id be checking ECT vs EOT Deltas ASAP

This Golden Goo can Inhibit the Heat Exchange between the Coolant and Oil in the OIL COOLER As well as Plug the Coolant veins inside the oil cooler what will lead to EGR Cooler Failure

If you dont have a Gauge might be a good time to get one as its a GREAT Idea to keep an eye on the OIL Cooler

So get a ScanGaugeII or something and compare the 2 temp Deltas and then you will know for shure

ODDS are it could be fine But Me I would want to know for shure

 

Hi,
I forgot that bit of info.
3 - 4 F delta
If I find a hill and push it. I goes up a bit and comes right down.
I think you helped me to set up the SGII
Nothing like being tired at night and goofing up one digit in the MTH.
That has been fixed
How much of a job is it to change over to ELC CAT EC-1 Silicate Free
and where is the best place to buy it?

Thanks
Sean

 

BLADE35 I have thought about switching to the ELC instead of stock coolant. I have not done any research on the subject yet, but wanted to ask you since it sounds like you made the switch. Can I flush the system according to standard protocol and just switch coolant, or is this something that has to be done in conjunction with changing oil/egr cooler and radiator. What I am getting at is, is there any kind of reactivity between coolant types or just switch and don't look back?

 

Oh those temps are GREAT

to switch to ELC Just do 6-8 straight distilde water fill and drains making shure the thermostat opens and cycles everything good each time

Probably worth pullen thermostat and doing it then you dont have to wait to open or drive a few 100 miles

Id pull thermostat run each cycle for 10 or so minutes and repeat

The only kicker is you want all the Ford gold out as not good to mix difffrent types coolant I ran some VC-9 Ford cleaner threw it some folks use Restore product to clean the final layer of stuff off the Mettal I cant remember the High tech terminalagy they say

I got my ELC from oreyllies its called Final Charge like 22$$ a Gallon full strength and get 4 Gallons full strength as it will take 3.5 gal to get 50/50 mix mix the last 1/2 gallon with water and use for top off

The ELC must be rated ELC CAT EC-1
some elc have silicates some dont because of the Debate over the silicate drop out causing the Golden Goo I wanted a ELC that was also silicate free International uses Fleetrite ELC that is silicate free to and from what I hear had fewer Oil Cooler Failures so silicate free is a MUST for me

 

Hey 15K since all that and Numbers ECT & EOT are still as good as new

But I did spend 2 days flushing it

I spread the flushing out I went a really good round flushing put the gold back in installed a coolant filter drove 5K and then went the rounds flushing again Flushing till as clear going in as coming out then tore down and replaced oil cooler and egr deleate

If you llook inmy pics the oil cooler was almost plugged solid I took pics with it cut open

 

Think I remember seeing those pics.

I was planning to change to ELC at 100k miles. I recently had my truck at the dealer to replace my belt tensioner assembly and had them do the coolant while it was there since it has been a while. I am going to put it off until I replace the oil/egr cooler. My temps/delta are still good, but I still feel like it is a time bomb.

 

I have always used the Ford Premium Gold coolant since day one... the key is that I have flushed my cooling system every 50,000 miles versus the manuals 100,000 mile recommendation or any other brand of coolants recommendation.

By flushing with distilled water, I get no hard minerals and I get fresh coolant... and if there is any "blow by" in the coolant, then I an flushing it out!!!

The coolant filter is just added insurance that I believe is worth every dollar spent - and the pictures I have (and others have posted) are proof positive.

I am all about frequent changes and not extended changes with other brands of coolant that claim that they can go longer... maybe they can, but my expereince is that they cost more... and the added cost is not worth it to me.

I flush my coolant with distilled water every 50,000 miles and use a coolant filter.

I change my oil and filter every 5,000 miles (even using synthetic oil).

I change my front and rear diff's every 50,000 miles (the rear-end uses Ford syn fluid per the manual).

Fuel filters are every 15,000 miles (which is by the book and the only filter I do not change early unless 1,000 to 2,000 miles early).

 

Very nice thank you. When I bought my truck it had 60k miles. I had everything changed out then. I do oil and fuel 5 and 10k. Coolant only had 35k on it but I am ok with changing early to avoid problems.

 

Unfortunately, the dealer only uses tap water, not distilled water.

The Ford manual states to flush your system every 50,000 miles when using tap water... but lets face it... who knows how hard the water is and how well they flush it or if they just drain and refill it (and how much do they really drain or flush)?

That is why many of us here flush with distilled water 6 or so times to really flush our motors... then refill with fresh coolent and then top off with distilled water.... then we know it was flushed perfectly and done right!!!!

As well, Ford even revised their procedures a few years back and "backed off" their policy of 100,000 mile service intervals and went with 50,000 miles and with testing one's coolent with the nitrate strips.

I have just chosen to flush and change my coolant every 50,000 miles with distilled water and never test it.... and all is well and it makes it easy for me.

 

Very nice thank you. When I bought my truck it had 60k miles. I had everything changed out then. I do oil and fuel 5 and 10k. Coolant only had 35k on it but I am ok with changing early to avoid problems.

 

If you have a coolant filter then you can flush with a garden hose through the bypass feed, at least that is how I did it. I got the adapter and put a piece of garden hose on it and then had a female hose end. I pulled the T stat and then just flushe through the drain and the coolant bottle. I followed up with a final flush using distilled water. Like you all I really had was the goo very little dirt in my filter. Anyhow ended up havein the egr and oil coolers replaced and added the catapillar coolant. The tech that did the work said the block was the cleanest he had seen. I was not able to pull the block plugs and he did but said he had to buy a different set up as they were in tight and hard to break free. Anyhowif it was clean without pulling them you can do the same. Just drain final by pulling lower rad hose.

 

were do yall flush form (what part or is there a valve) to drain from. then what, fill it up with distilled water drive around a little and redrain, repeat 5/6 times then top 50/50?

i am planning oin doing this with a coolent filter change when i go home for R&R best place to get the filter? and what company should i get the oil cooler from to install while i am there?

so for the highjack

 

this is how you do it
http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf