Just a quick question. What would make a hydraulic clutch pedal feel harder to push in? It's about a year old, clutch, slave and master but just recently started feeling harder to push in. I checked the master, slave and clutch and they seem to be working fine, so does the pedal assembly. Just feels harder to push in the last few days. Maybe just in my mind but thought I'd check and see if there is something someone knows that would cause it to do this.

 

Can't think of anything, unless someplace along the line something is worn and binding up. Does the extra effort start with the first touch of the pedal, or not until the slack is taken out and you are starting to release the clutch? Any noises?

 

Look at the pedal assembly under the dash, make sure it hasn't cracked and is twisting.

 

Or the firewall?

 

When the clutch was replaced, did you clean up the collar where the TO bearing rides and apply some grease? The TO bearing can start to bind up as it slides, increasing the pedal effort. This was a contributing factor to the firewall cracking issue.

 

I'm assuming that the TO bearing was replaced when the clutch was done as they come with the kit. However, it is important that you grease the shaft and the bearing and of course put it on with the correct side facing out (ask me how I know).

The pedal assembly is probably the culprit here. There is a shaft that the push rod rides on. I'm not sure what it's called (actuator rod?) or where to get a replacement, but mine is worn pretty good and I notice that it can make it harder to push. Check that and see what it looks like.

 

Thanks for the replies and help.
Never had a hydraulic clutch feel hard to push in.

It feels like it is after the free play that it gets harder and don't hear any popping or noise. I know from what I've been able to find on here and Google that binding/hard clutch is the reason for the firewall cracking so that's what has me concerned.

I didn't have any firewall cracking or wear when I checked it and the pedal assembly a little while back and didn't notice any movement of the firewall now, but will recheck that and the pedal assembly. That was my first thought so was the first thing I checked. I did have a slight amount of movement of the slave cylinder due to the plastic retainer working it's way loose but fixed that. Also didn't see any movement of the clutch fork other than what would be expected to disengage.

I did clean and lightly lube the trans input shaft housing when I changed the clutch. But that was a year ago, and I live in the desert, so not sure how much is still there. With the open bell housing, for the clutch fork, dirt and dust get in there all the time.

I'll get out there again today and do a little more checking. I have the small repair plate for the firewall should I need it.
Maybe it's time to give a little more thought to the auto trans swap I've been thinking about. Heck, only been thinking about it for about 8 years sense I've owned the truck. Hate to rush into things..

 

Whoa! Easy there turbo. If I've learned anything from Gary you have to document everything then triple check to make sure you have everything right. You should be good to go on the transmission swap in a year or two...

 

(It took that many so I didn't have to type any text. Oh wait, I just did! )

 

Yea I know it's kind of rushing it. Haven't even done a spread sheet or anything yet.

 

whats even more fun is when you use your body as a jack, to manhandle your t18 into its happy new home and get everything bolted up and ready to go and just as you go to hook up the clutch spring and linkage... realize that there is no throwout arm... and the tb is laying next to you because you fergot to put it in all together.


xtof

 

Things that make you go hmmmmm.


Well there appears to be slight movement of the firewall. When I say slight I mean you have to really stare at it to see it move. Still no signs of cracks. The linkage under the dash looks good, no sign of ware on it either and moves fine with m/c disconnected. Guess I'll just keep watching it and see what happens.

 

I would recomend a few checks:

1) With flashlight and monkey-like flexibility, lay on your back on the floorboard and look up at where the clutch pedal cross rod attaches to a bellcrank, which then attaches with a spring pin to the master cylinder pushrod. Try to work the clutch pedal from this awkward position (you won't be able to fully depress the pedal, trust me). Examine all of the forementioned pivot points in the assembly, looking for worn bushings or out of alignment pivoting parts. Consider giving the moving joint parts a light spritz with a plastic-safe lubricant (I used "Fluid Film").

2) Also examine the master cylinder pushrod from this comfortable position. Does it look like it is lined up straight and capable of nice free movement? Wipe it clean with a rag and apply a very thin film of clean lithium or molybdenum grease to it. Begin to fell yourself dozing off from the comfort of the position.

3) Under the truck, check your slave cylinder. Does it appear tight and aligned in its bracket? Or is it loose? Also, it was recomended by Ford to put a dab of heavy grease in the depression where the slave cylinder pushrod contacts the clutch push-arm.

 

Those are all good ideas!
I was in that super comfortable position earlier today rechecking the push rod and firewall. They all looked good and aligned however, never thought to lube any of the parts.
The slave is aligned and secure, did that yesterday, but I didn't lube them either.

Like I said, good ideas. I will return to that wonderful position tonight or tomorrow. You really have to appreciate how easy that is for a short fat old dude to do.