Heater core removal
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Heater core removal
Man am I confused. I have tried following just about everyone's advice. I know how to unhook all of the hoses and can get the heater core loose but there doesn't seem to be enough space under the dash to get the core completely clear from the firewall. Most everyone I have read says that there is no need to remove the dash but I can't seem to figure out how to create enough space to get the core all of the way out. What am I missing?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
I don't know on the non-AC trucks, but on the AC models the first thing they tell you is remove the bottom right bolt on the end of the dash, pull the dash back until the bolt will go in the threaded hole and hold the dash back on that end. It's been so long since I had my '77 I can't remember exactly how I took the heater case out.
Rusty Roller
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,423
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From: Santa Cruz Mountains
I don't know on the non-AC trucks, but on the AC models the first thing they tell you is remove the bottom right bolt on the end of the dash, pull the dash back until the bolt will go in the threaded hole and hold the dash back on that end. It's been so long since I had my '77 I can't remember exactly how I took the heater case out.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
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I just did the core on my '78 F250 with the standard heater. I used the FSM which didn't mention loosening the dash.
Anyhow, I wiggled it out after several tries and various approaches. It was very tight; I did slightly scar up the heavy firewall insulation with the protruding ends of the heater core hose connection but it came out and went back in undamaged.
The little bit of clearance gained by loosening the dash and pulling it back slightly would have helped a lot.
Anyhow, I wiggled it out after several tries and various approaches. It was very tight; I did slightly scar up the heavy firewall insulation with the protruding ends of the heater core hose connection but it came out and went back in undamaged.
The little bit of clearance gained by loosening the dash and pulling it back slightly would have helped a lot.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
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I replaced the heater core on my 77 F100. The old core came out without problems, but I did have to loosen and pull the lower metal dash out to install the new one as the piping that sticks thru the firewall was 1/4" longer.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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Seems like I took the glove box insert out when I did the one in my 77, so I could see what was happening under the dash. I may be wrong, it has been three or four years.
The hard part is getting it back in place with all the wiring still connected properly.
Robert
The hard part is getting it back in place with all the wiring still connected properly.
Robert
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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I went through this pain myself. in the end I just ended up wiggling it like a son of a bish till it came out.
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New User
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Thanks guys...I'm going to try it again tomorrow night. The irony is that the core is fine, but the bearings are shot in the fan motor and sounds like a zombie moaning up under the dash. Im going to replace the core while its out though. Hopefully I have good news to report In a few days.
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Pleased to report it all came out, turns out I wasn't cussing enough 
Actually, the old core had some really long inlets on it. The new cores inlets were a good 1.5 inches shorter. It litteraly went back in with no issue in about 30 seconds with the new core. Weird. Changed the hoses, radiator, core, blower, thermostat, and thermostat housing (after the old one disintegrated in my hands). Thanks for the help!
Now on to a short in the dash lights.
Actually, the old core had some really long inlets on it. The new cores inlets were a good 1.5 inches shorter. It litteraly went back in with no issue in about 30 seconds with the new core. Weird. Changed the hoses, radiator, core, blower, thermostat, and thermostat housing (after the old one disintegrated in my hands). Thanks for the help!
Now on to a short in the dash lights.
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