Yet another 'Mater
#31
They still are available in the "Help" section of an auto parts store for about $10.00 - 12.00.
I would think the one pictured might be "stiff" to use due to the rather sharp bend in the cable as it exits the firewall.
By the way, the plugged vacuum line at the top of the carburetor was originally the source of replacement air which was drawn through a metal tube which passed through the exhaust manifold and connected to the choke housing [before the plastic cap was replaced with the manual choke conversion kit]. This supplied clean hot air to assist the operation of the choke by causing the bimetallic spring to uncoil as the engine came up to operating temperature. Since it is no longer being used, you can simply place a cap on the port to replace the piece of plugged hose.
Also, looking at the air filter housing [earlier large photos], their are vacuum ports [white] which have nothing connected to them. This is an older style of filter housing, but I believe I remember that to be the temperature sensor which controls the servo motor located at the end of the air intake snorkle. The servo controls a flap which directs the incoming charge of fresh air. When an engine is cold, the air is drawn through the ~2" metallic hose which goes to the shielded area surrounding the exhaust manifold. This helps prevent stumbling and carburetor icing. As the air is heated and the engine warms, the sensor mounted inside the air filter redirects the vacuum signal to move the flap so that cool denser air is drawn in to the filter for improved performance. You might want to gently disconnect the flexible duct which goes from the snorkle to the radiator support and watch the flap while the engine is running [be CAREFUL of moving engine parts and make sure to have in park and set parking brake!] to see if the flap opens as the engine warms up. If not, you will be losing gas mileage and performance since the incoming air will always be preheated.
I would think the one pictured might be "stiff" to use due to the rather sharp bend in the cable as it exits the firewall.
By the way, the plugged vacuum line at the top of the carburetor was originally the source of replacement air which was drawn through a metal tube which passed through the exhaust manifold and connected to the choke housing [before the plastic cap was replaced with the manual choke conversion kit]. This supplied clean hot air to assist the operation of the choke by causing the bimetallic spring to uncoil as the engine came up to operating temperature. Since it is no longer being used, you can simply place a cap on the port to replace the piece of plugged hose.
Also, looking at the air filter housing [earlier large photos], their are vacuum ports [white] which have nothing connected to them. This is an older style of filter housing, but I believe I remember that to be the temperature sensor which controls the servo motor located at the end of the air intake snorkle. The servo controls a flap which directs the incoming charge of fresh air. When an engine is cold, the air is drawn through the ~2" metallic hose which goes to the shielded area surrounding the exhaust manifold. This helps prevent stumbling and carburetor icing. As the air is heated and the engine warms, the sensor mounted inside the air filter redirects the vacuum signal to move the flap so that cool denser air is drawn in to the filter for improved performance. You might want to gently disconnect the flexible duct which goes from the snorkle to the radiator support and watch the flap while the engine is running [be CAREFUL of moving engine parts and make sure to have in park and set parking brake!] to see if the flap opens as the engine warms up. If not, you will be losing gas mileage and performance since the incoming air will always be preheated.
Last edited by 1986F150six; 05-11-2012 at 10:26 AM. Reason: Added some more thoughts.
#32
By the way, the plugged vacuum line at the top of the carburetor was originally the source of replacement air which was drawn through a metal tube which passed through the exhaust manifold and connected to the choke housing [before the plastic cap was replaced with the manual choke conversion kit]. This supplied clean hot air to assist the operation of the choke by causing the bimetallic spring to uncoil as the engine came up to operating temperature. Since it is no longer being used, you can simply place a cap on the port to replace the piece of plugged hose.
#33
Hadn't planned on working on the truck again today, but ended up going by the auto parts store with a buddy and grabbed a PCV valve, the grommet for it, and some caps for the vacuum system. Holy cow, the truck is like a different vehicle now.
I thought I had some major issues in my future with this truck, but it idles well now, and I didn't have to fiddle with the choke at all. At some point I'll be looking into converting it back to an automatic choke, but it should be alright for now.
I thought I had some major issues in my future with this truck, but it idles well now, and I didn't have to fiddle with the choke at all. At some point I'll be looking into converting it back to an automatic choke, but it should be alright for now.
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