When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
very nice. There was also talk about maybe needing new lines. I took a peak at mine yesterday between thunderstorms, and one of mine looked questionable. Does anyone have part numbers for the lines, and are they dealer items?
Also did I see somewhere that we are supposed to have the cores back within 60 days?
thanks
All's well that ends well. Soaked overnight in PB Blaster (pool of lube was gone this morning so it had to have soaked in) Put puller on and torqued up with impact wrench until puller screw would not turn anymore, put on ground, got biggest hammer I could find and played golf with it. When I finally hit it (I suck at golf) one part became two and I went to assembly mode. All that's left is a test drive across Texas in about 30 min.
Awesome, enjoy the feeling of tighter steering now!
Alright I went and bought the hoses so I have them on had. I am going to try and tackle this job today (finally). so does anyone have any more tips or tricks? Where did you all find a puller for the pitman arm?
Pop the drag link off first, then pull the box, then you can go to work on that pitman. Putting good pressure on the pitman with a puller and then giving it some strategic whacks has always worked for me. Of course we are pretty rust free down here.
Yeah I got it that far, guess I am just not strategic enough. I have some PB soaking in right now with the puller on it with pressure. hopefully it will let loose after lunch.
Worse case O'r will have a new one for me in the morning. To bad I need the truck in the morning. So will have to put the old back on and take back off when I get some more time. Redhead may be getting my old arm along with my core.
Alright after a little while with some parts blaster a cheap puller from Oriely ($14 and change well worth itsaid it was a rental, but for that price I am keeping it), and a few "Strategic Whacks" (Izzy) with Snap on Dead blow ball peen and it came loose. It is working fine but I think I am about a half turn off steering wheel makes a funny sound at the far left turn position. Probably just need to take the pitman back off and move it 8 or 16.
Thanks to all.
Joe
centering dont realy bother me. It is just about perfect for resting your arm on the door rest and hanging a finger in the bend.
It just seems like the wheel turn a little to far left and makes a funny noise at that point.
Jumped in on the Red head group buy and told sales guy I had no idea on number of splines. He told me it should be 36 with my make and model. Got the box in and couldn't get my pitman arm off my old box. Got a new 36 spline pitman arm from AZ but it was an inch shorter than my old arm measuring center to center. So I figured I had a 32 spline unit. I ordered and picked up a new 32 spline steering gear (was going to return Red Head's unit) and pitman arm but it was, again, 1 inch shorter than the stock arm. Now I don't know what the hell to do. Frustration setting in.
Pittman arm my 2002 form f250 super duty need a Moog 9 1/2 outside to outside. Went to dealer and order the right part. Wasn't. I found it at a website. The short one with 36 spline would not fit, so don't try. Hit when I had it on wheel alignment machine. Couldn't align. But the new Moog part fit.
Jumped in on the Red head group buy and told sales guy I had no idea on number of splines. He told me it should be 36 with my make and model. Got the box in and couldn't get my pitman arm off my old box. Got a new 36 spline pitman arm from AZ but it was an inch shorter than my old arm measuring center to center. So I figured I had a 32 spline unit. I ordered and picked up a new 32 spline steering gear (was going to return Red Head's unit) and pitman arm but it was, again, 1 inch shorter than the stock arm. Now I don't know what the hell to do. Frustration setting in.
Had same problem on f250 super duty pitarm that finally fit mine was mogg k80795 36 tooth spline and total length 9.75 center to center 7.65 approx.
I have a 2002 f250. 7.3 liter powerstroke turbo desiel 4x4 with a 6" lift steering has been real loose lately I was coming back from Vegas going 60 70 miles an hour and if I hit a bump it would take me into the next Lane pulled over and checked underneath and the nut on the pitman arm was loose wondering if there is a difference in 32 and 36 splines changes gear box girlfriend was driving the truck over a bridge and it's during which to where I had to change the gearbox cuz the bolts that adjust leaked all the fluid leaked out tore my girlfriend had to keep stopping and putting fluid into the power steering when I got home I took check the gearbox and noticed that it was leaking by the screws that adjusted I got an aftermarket gear box and installed it but not to hip with the suspension an worendering if you might have any suggestions
First thing that comes to mind is bad ball joints. They wear out with some regularity on these trucks. Could also be bad hubs. Jack up the front and yank the tires around with your hands at 12 and 6. Do the same yanking with hands at 9 and 3. If it's loose at all positions it's probably the hubs, but if loose only at 12 and 6 that's likely ball joints. A handy shade tree mechanic can do both jobs at home with a few tools and some research.
The steering pump takes ATF on these, not power steering fluid.
@William gagen If the nut holding the pitman arm on the steering gear was loose, the splines are probably damaged. You will need to replace the steering gear and the pitman arm. It is important that the steering gear's output shaft and the pitman arm have the same spline count. Whether it is 32 or 36, both need to be the same. There is only one allen screw with a jam nut on top of the steering gear to adjust. What screws are you referring to that were leaking?
Another way to check your tie rod ends is with channel locks.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.