Hey guys, as you know in Canada rust is a huge issue. Today I was out removing my passenger front brake caliper to replace the pads. I only moved the caliper about an inch away from the rotor to tie it to the spring when the steel tube that attaches to the caliper cracked and started to leak fluid badly. I pinched the flex hose off with vise grips but need to know how to replace the flex hose and steel tube. I saw a high pressure hose clamp near my shock mount where the flex hose seems to end. Is this where I take it apart? Any advice would be awesome! Thanks!

The truck is my sig rig.

 

Pinched hose needs to be replaced as well. One brakes tubing breaking with a touch brings safety concerns about the others. I would advise to have it towed to a shop for proper evaluation.

 

The flex hose is permanently attached to the lower metal line that gets bolted up to the caliper. Getting a "front brake hose" from the store will get you everything between the frame mount and caliper.

The end of the hose is held in it's bracket by a U shaped wedge, which you will have to pull off the hose end. When you look at it you will understand. The hose connects to a hard line by means of a line nut. This can be your next problem.

First you are going to want to get some PB Blaster on that nut as the threads often rust tightly and the area between the metal hard line and nut can become frozen. You do not want to use a typical open end wrench on that nut as it will round off. You need to use what is known as a line wrench, but if that also causes rounding, you will have to use curved jaw vice-grips to get it to move.

With severally rusted line nuts I've seen the metal tubes actually twist off when the rust will not give between the nut and the metal line. When you first break the nut loose I would recommend moving it back and forth 1/6 of a turn to try to get the rust broken free.

This is what line wrenches look like:



If you have that much rust on the wheel end hard line I would say you're in trouble for the rest of the brake lines. While it is expensive, what I would recommend is to replace all your hard lines with these stainless steel ones from Classic Tube.

http://www.classictube.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&p roduct_type_id=1&ItemID=0&product_type_1_Year_comp =find_in_set_any&product_type_1_Make_comp=texteq&p roduct_type_1_Model_comp=texteq&product_type_1_Yea r[]=2004&product_type_1_Make=Ford&product_type_1_Mode l=Truck+-+F250&submit=Search

You want to replace the lines when it's convenient, not when it's an emergency.

 

I am aware that I must replace the steel tube and the flex hose at the same time. My largest concerns were how to stop fluid from leaking while doing the change over and how to properly reconnect at both ends. Any guides kicking around?

 

Just let it drip. You will need to bleed the brakes anyway. Good time to flush whole system.

 

The desire to keep the fluid from draining out of the master cylinder is a good approach as it is a bear to get the air out of the ABS controller when that happens. Fluid drains out because at rest the master is an open hydraulic system with the compensating ports open between the master cylinder bore and the reservoir. The easiest way to close that pathway is to partially apply the brake pedal by using a small board like a 1x2 or 2x4 between the seat bottom and brake pedal; It also helps to pull the fuse for the rear brake lights at the same time you so you don't drain the batteries.

Here is the first video I found on YouTube about replacing the front brake hose:

How To Replace Brake Lines and Hoses - YouTube

 

Anyone know the torque spec for the bolt on the caliper?

 

Found the spec. My next issue is getting the hose off of the shock mount. there is a clip behind the mount on the steel line, does this need to come off? I would think so... Any advice would be awesome!

EDIT: Fix it!