I've been digging through the forums before posting this and haven't had any luck.

I need to replace the front flexible hoses on my '77 F150 2WD and can't figure out how to get the old ones off at the top. Looking at the new hoses it looks like it might be a matter of twisting and pushing but I can't see how that works where the hose connects to the hose line.

TIA,
Twidget

 

Steel line unscrews at the top where it goes into the hose connection. If it won't break free without twisting the fitting and line apart you might be better off replacing the steel line to the combo valve at this time.

The steel hose fitting that is part of the rubber hose, on the new one you will see a slot cut around just above the wider base. And the hose is keyed to be pushed into the steel mount in one direction only. Chances are decent the retaining clip has rusted to the point it's hard to make out. (purchase a couple of new ones from the auto parts store, it's darn near impossible on older trucks/cars to reuse these) I took ours out by hitting it with PB blaster, rocked it back and forth a bit to break the rust apart, and used a screw driver blade to clean out the remains of the mounting clip. Once the clip is removed (or what is left of it) The hose line should be "rocked" out of the frame mount without to many problems.

Goes back in the same way it came out. No twisting or anything fancy, just line things up and push it right in until you see the retaining slot, and the larger part under the slot is firmly against the frame mount. Secure in place using new retainers, and yeah..they are a very tight fit to install the retainers.

S-

 

Thanx. I was afraid someone would say something like that. I've started to round the nut at the top trying to get one side off and was hoping to avoid running new brake lines.

 

You may need to use a propane torch after soaking it with P/F

That's what I have had to do

 

If you haven't rounded them too much, you may need to buy a flare nut tubing wrench. It is made to contact all 6 corners to keep from rounding them. If it is too late, use some vise grips.

Jason

 

1) Disconnect the hose at the caliper.
2) Soak the steel line flare nut threads and steel line where it passed into the nut with WD 40, PB Blaster or whatever your favorite chemical might be.
3) Wipe off as much of the excess chemical as you can.
4) Heat the steel line flare nut with MAPP gas. Get it REAL hot.
5) Put a flare wrench on the flare nut and loosen it. Use vise grips as suggested if you have rounded the corners.

This method has worked great for me every time I have needed to use it. MAPP gas is readily available at most hardware stores. It burns much hotter than propane because it is a mix of acetylene and propane. Because it is hotter, it is better for freeing rusted parts.