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HEI Help ....AGAIN

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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #1  
POPAJON's Avatar
POPAJON
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From: Cranbrook, Ont., Canada
HEI Help ....AGAIN

I know this is getting old but..... when it come to schematic drawings and being told how to do it I"m STILL not sure, I can be dummer than a sack full of sled tracks. I've installed an HEI in my 400, I know where the tach wire goes. What I need is a pic of where the battery lead goes. If one of you has a good, clear pic of this it will save a lot of grief. Also when I got my edelbrock performer intake, there was a package with the instructions gaskets etc. WHAT is the metal piece for it matches the gasket. I've never seen these before. Any help given is greatly appreciated. Popa John
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #2  
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The battery lead goes to the keyswitch. There is no easy way to do this, you need to run a 12 guage wire from the dist through the firewall to the switch. Some people also run it to the fuse box and use a fuse tap, but directly to the switch would be best. You can't use the original coil hot wire that Ford used, this wire has a resistance in it and will not send the full 12v that your HEI requires. Look at your keyswitch wiring, I believe it will be a red/green wire that you need to tie your new wire to at the switch.

If you are talking about small metal pieces that fit in the center holes on each side of the manifold gasket, those are heat restrictors. The center passage on each head on either side is hooked to the exhaust. Exhaust is run through the bottom of the manifold to heat it, to keep the fuel atomized. This is very important for cold weather driveability. The metal plates are used to control the flow of the exhaust. Some applications did use them, some used one on one side, and sometimes they used both. I usually use both, but don't do the racer trick and block them completely off, you will hate your truck in cold weather if you do.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #3  
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crsmiffy
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Might be a try to check that coil hot wire and see where the resistance section is. If it's right by the end you may be able to remove it and splice in a normal bit.

We are talking about the resistance wire to the dizzy or is there one to the coil also?
I believe (a long time after the fact I may add) that I removed my resistance section thinking it was a dodgy join. My points started sticking a while later. An electronic dizzy given to me fixed that!
 
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