Head Gasket Cost
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Freshman User
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Head Gasket Cost
I just got the quote for replacing my head gaskets - $4400 from a Diesel Shop. That price includes resurfacing and O-ringing the heads, ARP studs, new oil cooler, all gaskets (intake, exhaust, and head), a coolant filter, and labor. I also got a quote from a Ford garage - $5K without the resurfacing or the coolant filter. Do these prices sound about right?
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
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From: Alabama
No need to o-ring the heads unless u are running really high boost for racing. Also need to update standpipes an dummy plugs an the SCT fitting while u have it apart. An check your IPR valve. Make sure screen on it isn't torn. If it is replace it to.
Price sounds about right. I did my head gaskets n new oil cooler n coolant filter an those other parts I mentioned. An flushed coolant system out refilled with fleet guard cat-1 rated ELC coolant. An it all cost me about 2200 to 2500 in parts.
Price sounds about right. I did my head gaskets n new oil cooler n coolant filter an those other parts I mentioned. An flushed coolant system out refilled with fleet guard cat-1 rated ELC coolant. An it all cost me about 2200 to 2500 in parts.
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Freshman User
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Actually, after looking at the quote again, I don't think it includes O-ringing the heads, but it does include resurfacing the heads and a valve job. The parts list looks comparable to others I've seen on here, but the labor indicated is 24 hours @ $95 per hour. Does that sound right? Also, does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Winchester, VA area? Please advise, this is my only vehicle; I'm riding my motorcycle now and mornings are a little chilly. Thanks in advance.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,061
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
So its Cheapest to have those changed while its all Apart for Head Gaskets and ARP Studs as they will be right there and shouldnt charge to much Labor to swap them out for the Updated Parts
This will SAVE you paying for all the Labor to get them replaced when they FAIL. These parts are not IF but WHEN will they fail
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Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
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From: Alabama
STC fitting goes into the back Of the (HPOP) high pressure oil pump. The standpipe is what feeds the oil from your HPOP to the oil rails which sits on top of your injectors. The dummy plugs just plug the second hole in the oil rails.
Old STC fitting is a slip fit an prone to leak. New one is a threaded fitting so doesn't leak.
Old standpipes are a two piece design, one piece just sits on top of other piece with a rubber seal there they meet. Rubber seal is prone to leak or blow out.
Dummy plug added a Teflon washer to it to help reinforce the o-ring on it.
I hope that helps you with your question an maybe understand a little more about how these motors operate.
Old STC fitting is a slip fit an prone to leak. New one is a threaded fitting so doesn't leak.
Old standpipes are a two piece design, one piece just sits on top of other piece with a rubber seal there they meet. Rubber seal is prone to leak or blow out.
Dummy plug added a Teflon washer to it to help reinforce the o-ring on it.
I hope that helps you with your question an maybe understand a little more about how these motors operate.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
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From: Alabama
You may also want to look inside your intake an see how much black carbon build up is in it. If its totally black an thick looking then may want to send it to machine shop with your heads an get them to hot tank it to clean all that carbon from inside it.
Also you may want, depending on where you live, do a CCV reroute to keep that from building up in your intake again. Can do it pretty cheap. I did mine for about 50 bucks.
I didn't see a EGR cooler in your original post. May want to check into a BPD (bulletproof diesel) EGR cooler if you don't have one already.
If you don't have one. A scan gauge II is a very good tool to help you monitor the health of your motor. An a SCT tuner to help with the giddy up an go part.
Also you may want, depending on where you live, do a CCV reroute to keep that from building up in your intake again. Can do it pretty cheap. I did mine for about 50 bucks.
I didn't see a EGR cooler in your original post. May want to check into a BPD (bulletproof diesel) EGR cooler if you don't have one already.
If you don't have one. A scan gauge II is a very good tool to help you monitor the health of your motor. An a SCT tuner to help with the giddy up an go part.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for the info. Still wondering if anyone has any recommended shops in the Winchester, VA area (including Maryland & North-eastern WV). At this point, I'm not sure who to call to get another quote. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
At the top of the page click forums. Then click chapters. I seen one for West Virgina an Maryland. I didn't see one for Virgina but I may have over looked it.
You can join those chapter an that people in that area. They may know of a good shop that's close to you.
Hopes that helps you.
You can join those chapter an that people in that area. They may know of a good shop that's close to you.
Hopes that helps you.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Not a problem.
If you have any wrenching experience an want to save a good bit of money you can do it urself. I have always wrenched on all my vehicles (chevy gassers) an this is my first diesel. I wasn't totally sure if I could do it myself, but I was for sure goin to try. Because I didn't have 5k laying around to pay someone to do it for me.
But with the help of all the good fokes on here I was able to get it done. An now I have a better understanding of how this motor operates an what makes it tick. An have to add. My wife didn't think I could do it. Haha. Proved her wrong.
If you have any wrenching experience an want to save a good bit of money you can do it urself. I have always wrenched on all my vehicles (chevy gassers) an this is my first diesel. I wasn't totally sure if I could do it myself, but I was for sure goin to try. Because I didn't have 5k laying around to pay someone to do it for me.
But with the help of all the good fokes on here I was able to get it done. An now I have a better understanding of how this motor operates an what makes it tick. An have to add. My wife didn't think I could do it. Haha. Proved her wrong.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
For those of you considering the cost of the labour to have someone else to the job, please take this into account. How much time will it take YOU to do this job yourself, versus having a mechanic that has had thousands of these apart? While doing it, what other alternative arrangements for transportation will it require you to make? How much will this cost you, while your vehicle is down? Is the money you save in the cost of the labour worth the hassle/trouble of getting all the tools and space needed to do a major repair like this? How much do you THINK an experienced mechanic is worth? Or better yet, how much more (if any) are you willing to pay a Ford dealer tech (that has had THOUSANDS of 6.0L engines apart and know the size and location of every fastener/component off the top of his head), versus another mechanic who works at a shop on all makes/models but hasn't had too much experience on 6.0L diesels, to do this job?
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 520
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
For those of you considering the cost of the labour to have someone else to the job, please take this into account. How much time will it take YOU to do this job yourself, versus having a mechanic that has had thousands of these apart? While doing it, what other alternative arrangements for transportation will it require you to make? How much will this cost you, while your vehicle is down? Is the money you save in the cost of the labour worth the hassle/trouble of getting all the tools and space needed to do a major repair like this? How much do you THINK an experienced mechanic is worth? Or better yet, how much more (if any) are you willing to pay a Ford dealer tech (that has had THOUSANDS of 6.0L engines apart and know the size and location of every fastener/component off the top of his head), versus another mechanic who works at a shop on all makes/models but hasn't had too much experience on 6.0L diesels, to do this job?
I'm just the kinda guy who would rather wrench on my own truck.
I am a truck driver by trade an it took me about 2 months to get all my parts ordered an do the work. I did have another truck to drive back an forth to work. It's a big job to do HG's an all the other upgrades to these trucks. I'm not saying anyone can do this kinda job. It's a lot more detailed than changing oil. I just wanted to do it myself so I could get a good idea of how/what makes this engine tick, an to prove my wife wrong again. I knew I could do the work an get it all back together.
But this isn't a job that any joe blow who have a socket set can do in his driveway. If you are not 100% sure of your abilities to mechanic an don't have a large toolbox full of tools. Then but all means pay someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.