Got done with new EGR cooler, oil cooler, STC fitting upgrade, turbo oil inlet and outlet tube replaced. cranked up fine let run for around 10-15 mins. filled new ford gold antifreeze top off with distilled water . took for a spin, took it easy for a few miles then pulled out into traffic and got on it a little bit, ran excellent until inter cooler hose clamp blew off passengers side. stopped and got a couple of reg. radiator clamps to make it home. It also backfired when clamp blew off. coming home took it easy turbo bust around 10 lbs. till I got to a hill started out fine then slowly losing power up hill I mean just dragging, and not even a steep hill. let off fuel when I got to top of hill hit flat and seems to run fine after packed in drive way left it.

 

anybody have any ideas?

 

looked it over one inter cooler hose clamp loose. took it for another drive ran well for a few min's. when i go to pull out spits and sputters, and then some not a lot of black/ blue smoke comes out and off i go. Bad fuel, or what any suggestions, no check engine or any lights come on.

 

Maybe still having a CAC issue or the sneeze it did earlier lodged a carbon booger in the EGR valve or unison ring in the turbo. Once the CAC is sealed up for sure try the Italian tune-up.

 

what is the Italian tune-up.

thanks
Charlie

 

Oh Boy Rusty I let you explain the Italian tune-up LOL

Black-Blue smoke is commonly from a OverFuel Condition so is your CAC System still leaking Better go over it with a Fine Tooth Comb

Have any Gauges????????

 

Drive it hard. A couple large throttle openings at low RPM ( fully warmed up) like taking off from a standing start and nail the throttle. And a couple time of staying in the throttle and letting it build some good RPM's. If you don't want to go fast, pull it down into a lower gear. Also, lift the throttle quickly while at high RPM a couple of times. The idea being to move a bunch of air through the engine and have the variable vanes in the turbo make a full sweep through their full travel. Interesting if you get forcefully enough with this the PCM will throttle the engine back and not allow you to go too far. Keep an eye on the boost gauge if you have one. If it seems to boost too much (near the red) the turbo could be sticking and you should stop the "tune-up" immediately and remove and clean the turbo. Also, you may want to wait until you've driven the truck a couple times before you do this. It will give your CAC boot installation time to "stick". They will get a work out.

I tried Benny

 

Awesome

Just in adition make shure your ECT is at 150* or Higher before you start getting on it WOT

If your Boost hits 28psi or higher Back out the throtle

Any Codes??? may have one without a CEL

 

OK got my new clamp on inter cooler hose. Done like you said and off I went. No smoke of any color that I could see. Runs A heck of lot better, I guess since I clean that nasty *** intake, the censors in the intake, EGR. the tank can breath now. Cranks better, quieter, turbo bust not as high as before, gauge said around 30 lbs, now around 22-25 ish. The stand pipes are next, have upgrade for those also.

A big thanks to Rusty Axlerod and Blade35 for your advice.

Thanks again
Charlie

 

The Loss of Boost PSI is normal with a egr deleate

Cant remember who but they still had the working EGR System and just by Comanding the EGR To STAY CLOSED lost around 4 psi BOOST so with a EGR System Funtional looks like EBP came into Play

I would bet it still has more power with a EGR Deleate (LESS 4PSI MAP Pressure) as SPENT Exhaust gas does Nothing but make Uncle SAM Happey

I Gained minimum of 1 MPG (OverHead Lie-O-Meter reading) egr deleated plus the intake stays clean and sensors within

To me an EGR system is BULL$%!T to recycle spent gas so MPG Suffers then to put a Liquid to air cooler (Cuz in ADDITION to SPENT air Its ALSO HOT SPENT AIR and COLD Air has more Molicules or whatever to Burn) so if that busts you get to hydrolock and the Moter will Fail premature even if repaired as most dont replace the piston assembly that LOCKS and is Now Tweeked at the wrist pin assembly and will Fail premature with a Connecting Rod threw the side of the Block all to keep the air Suposedly Cleaner but Have to Burn MORE Fossil fuel to makeup for feeding it spent air Wonder how much more NOx is produced to pump MORE Fossil Fuel Out the Ground F@**ing Retards

Ahhhh Feel Better Now after that Rant LOL

 

Tell us how you really feel!!!lol......

 

No I still have the EGR, did not delete it, just put a updated EGR cooler on. boost came back today, I ran it a little harder.