I have been working on getting my new used 2006 cleaned up. EOT & ECT has been over 25. I have been trying to do a flush with Restore and got around to attempting a back flush. I suspect I have a clogged one b/c I can't even turn water on full blast and not blow out the hose from the oil cooler. Wanted to get your guys thoughts. I removed the cover dropped lower hose have block drains open but can only run water hose half way and even then I have to wedge hose under turbo to keep from blowing out. I ran Restore for about 2 hours before I started this; what should I do call it quits and order a cooler?

 

I would say the oil cooler is plugged. Back flushing, even if it works for now, is only delaying the inevitable. Putting off replacing the oil cooler could cost more, like a leaking EGR cooler and possibly head gaskets.

 

Try hooking up your hose to the vent line coming from your EGR cooler to the degas bottle.

With a 25f delta you shouldn't be completely clogged.

 

Yep order a Oil Cooler

And finish flushing so you will be ready

Hope you pulled the thermostat and ran truck at 1100rpm for 1 hour with the cleaners Pulled the block drains and let a hose run thru it for a few at each spot you can get it

Even if you was able to get full flow with the hose thru the oil cooler some of the Passages would still be Blocked so you would still have High EOT's

these oil coolers cant be flushed out very good at all

if you have a square EGR Cooler be careful it could Blow out then you may need HeadGaskets and stuff

 

I left the thermostat in and hit the high idle. You say to finish flushing should I not do the oil cooler first?

 

well if you left thermostat in it didn't really clean anything

Iv done it BOTH Ways IN vs Out

Out creates a Very High Flow that's very Turbulent that acts like a Scrubing Action that pulls the Sand out from every Nook and cranny and then gets drained out

With thermostat in it don't get much flow even if you hit 190 ECT its Only Cracked open

With thermostat in I flushed atleast 15 times more like 20 and could Not get the Water to flush Clear/clean

But thermostat Out it flushed Clean and Clear after the 4-5th time Crystall clear


Iv seen guy do just like you that did same as you then replace the Oil Cooler and shortly after there New Oil Cooler was Plugged again cause with the New Oil Cooler it did restore Flow to the system and that Kicked a Bunch of Junk up clogging there New Oil Cooler

I flushed similar to this below
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...%20Flush%20PDF

these trucks if there Dirty and sounds like yours is have got to be flushed Like nothing you have ever done before or probably will do Again

 

I only had a 12* delta and followed the link above and a youtube video by dieseltechron. I removed the thermostat, did the VC-9 flush and flushed it for several hours with tap water, revving the engine to create more turbulence then back flushed the oil cooler. Then flushed with distilled water. Put it all back together and.....12* delta.

Replaced oil cooler with OEM, BulletProof EGR cooler and now I'm getting 6* delta.

 

First attempt at flushing I took out thermostat and used vc9. I was not able to finish so I drained (looked clear) blew out system with 20 psi air. When I got back to it I put in thermostat and restore. Truck ran at 192-196 for good while at 1200 RPM. I drained (looked clear). I hear so many people talking about dirty water I'm not getting anything to speak of. But as I stated in OP have you done the backflush and been able to run hose a full blast?

 

I back flushed mine with full pressure. At my hose bib I'm 68 PSI. My hose didn't try to pop out.

 

Well I pulled thermostat added 1/2 gallon of restore ran with high idle for 2 hours and reved it up several times during the 2 hours. I flushed 3 times with distilled water and then added 1/2 gallon of Restore Plus and Distilled water let run high idle for hour then took good 30 min drive. Temps were 230 EOT and 198-203 ECT. I am going to replace oil cooler cause there isn't much else to do at this point. Problem I have is I want be able to get to it for a week. I know I need to get out the Restore Plus. There is a below freezing day coming tomorrow. Should I drain and flush tap water for 30 mins and leave empty. Or flush few times with distilled and leave it in there?

 

I would not take a chance with fresh water freezing in your engine. Draining it will not remove all water.

Recommend adding enough anti-freeze to take care of your expected lowest temperature. That way you know the engine will be OK even if you can't get back to work on it for a while.

Lou Braun

 

I'm beginning to think this was a bad idea. I ran the hose with engine running and radiator and block valves open until I did not get any more foam from the Restore Plus. Closed valves put in thermostat and went to try out my new vacuum refiller from Matco and could not get more than 10 psi. I have a 7HP 150 PSI Air compressor so I know that is not the problem. Checked everything twice and then once again could not find any leaks. I even tried hooking up my mityvac to pressure the system to find a leak I could not build any pressure. I gave up put 2 gallons of ELC and 4 gallons of distilled water cranked it up ran for little while. At least it won't freeze. At this point I don't know what to do. The truck runs great except the EOT ECT being out of whack. I'm pretty sure the heads have been replaced b/c I seek gasket material (exhaust) and new freeze plugs. I had to get a loan to buy this POS. And now if I run it could blow the motor which would cost what I paid for the truck. But I don't know what to do. I guess some rest and I can re-evaluate the situation later. I really hate to tear into oil cooler, cause I'm going to do STC and turbo clean. That far down I might as well pull the heads have them checked and do studs. I just don't really need the headache and the expense. Maybe some of the Ford Guru's could chime in...... I'm going to get some rest. Thanks for all the help to this point.

 

Seriously???
Buy the oil cooler kit and the STC kit for $350 from either Riffraff diesel or White Bear Lake Ford.
If its not puking or pressurizing the degas bottle to 16 psi leave the heads alone.

I guess I don't see what your problem is?

 

For starters the truck has 187,000 miles and what I'm pretty sure is not the original heads. I have only driven the truck the 45 miles home and around the block some. First thing I did was SCII and problems have started from there. I really just want a dependable truck and don't really want to tear into the thing only to do it again in six months.

I would really like to be able to test condition of heads and lower before I spend good money after bad.

 

OK, so you bought a "broken truck".

Before you do any more to it, get a pressure gauge for the coolant bottle and take it out and drive it. Report findings.

If you are not building too much pressure, your heads are fine and should be left alone.

Then finish your flush and buy an OEM oil cooler $290 and thw STC kit $55. Depending on how ambitious you are, it can be completed in 1 day. Intake manifold gaskets are reusable.

At this time you can decide if you want to delete the EGR cooler as well.

If you want this truck to last, maintenance is key. Make sure to only use OEM filters and you should be good to go.