I'm wondering if there enough room between the oil cooler and the egr cooler to remove the rubber line under the turbo that connects them so I can Backflush the oil cooler from that point.

I know there is a way to remove the cap on the oil cooler, but if I am thinking if flushed from that point it would divide the flow of water. Part to the OC and part to the EGR.

If there is room I plan on connecting a water hose to the line and remove the water pump and Backflush just the oil cooler since it is on its own circuit.

The OC is only about 2 months old, but I think it has become clogged by the rust particles and casting sand released from the restore and restore + flush done prior to the new cooler.

The deltas started out 5 to 9, but have grown to 25 to 30.

Am I wrong?

 

If you can get it to work thats a good idea. The flushing adapter i used went below the egr cooler passage. Doesnt take much to get it sealed off.

 

It is quite easy to remove the cap, I use a cheap bent type rachet wrench with a Torx and sqeezed a little piece of plastic bag to help holding the torx bit to the wrench.

You can use a 5/8 clear hose, it fit tight in the oil cooler hole and you just install a water hose adaptor to fit you garden hose.

When you push the hose down in the hole, it will flush straight through your oil cooler. Disconnect the lower rad hose and it will flush pretty good, flush it in a bucket so you see what comes out, flush until no more crap in the cooler. Jerk the hose while flushing, squezze it or use a valve to pulse the flow of water, it greatly help disturbing the stuff in the cooler.

The EGR cooler passage is in the upper part of the housing, water will not go through the EGR cooler if you push the hose enough in the hole.

I would also flush and backflush the Big radiator by itself, upper and lower hose disconnected. If you have scale keeping comming out, you must get rid of it first. If you have rust, then it is probably comming from your engine, so you must remove the driver side engine plug and the block heater or plug from the passenger side to flush it good. The engine can be flushed from the lower degas to engine hose, just use a 3/4 inch adapter to garden hose fitting. I allways keep the rad hose disconnected so I do not push stuff back in the rad.

You can backflush the EGR cooler through the degas bottle hose that goes from the degas to the EGR. You will not get much flow, but it help clearing the EGR and wathever crap it could have in. Water will go up through the oil cooler coolant cap.

 

It is my understanding that the oil cooler coolant is on a circuit by it self so I am thinking that if you removed the water pump the junk that would be flushed out would not enter the engine block but would be flushed out the opening where the water pump would. Am I correct?

 

I do not know if it goes in the block, i would think if you remove the pump, it would dump straight down the block but I did not remove the pump. From what I saw when I flushed, the coolant was going down to the lower rad hose. I would presume that if flows to the easiest passage.

I would still have the engine plugs removed while flushing. I had a few pieces of rust scale comming out of the engine when I did mine. I do not think you can get all the rust scale circulate if you do not remove the plugs, but there is allways a chance that it will find it's way through after the flushes. When the plugs are removed, there is a big flow of water gusshing out of the hole. Even after the flushes, when I installed my filter, I got some fine rust in the first filter. On the second filter, there was almost nothing and on the third filter, just very fine traces of dirt. My first filter was a 10micron fuel water filter separator, so it stopped quite a bit of small pieces.

The worst was my Big Rad, scale just kept coming, I finaly replaced the rad, cause it started to leak at the top junction, probably just too much pure rad cleaner, I was going crazy about the greenish scale, so I used almost pure hot cleaner to circulate in a closed circuit in the Rad itself using a small 12 volt pump

 

If you look at the pictures of the coolant flow and read the PDF on the coolant flow, the Oil Cooler is fed by a dedicated circuit.

I removed my water pump Saturday and after using some shop rags to block off the big hot coolant supply hole in the front cover (you will see it when you remove the pump) and blocking off the other "cold water" supply holes in the lower part of the front cover, I backflushed the oil cooler and the deciated path in the block that feeds it. That is all it will flush, so you are not flushing the crud from the cooler back into the block.

Before the flush this weekend, 9 +/- degree delta when empty, 30 degree delta when pulling my dual tandem (8500 lbs) with no load on the trailer.

After the flush 9 +/- empty and 10 +/- when pulling the dual tandem with about 2000 lbs of pipe on it.. 10,500 total.

Don't know how long it will stay that way, but far better than replacing the cooler. I only used water, no chemicals this time.