Help with Replacement Carb

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Apr 30, 2012 | 05:34 PM

#16

1951flatheaddave

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From: PA, North of Pittsburgh

2 inline filters, 1 before the fuel pump and 1 right before the carb

Apr 30, 2012 | 06:31 PM

#17

1951flatheaddave

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From: PA, North of Pittsburgh

I have an inline filter before the fuel pump. When these carbs leak I mean right out of the box onto the engine and 15 seconds after the engine running they are leaking. I will mess with the float on the third one if I need to. More to come Friday evening

Apr 30, 2012 | 06:47 PM

#18

petemcl

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From: Northville, MI

I agree with Ross. They probably are getting bounced the wrong way and too hard in shipping.

May 1, 2012 | 10:22 AM

#19

1952henry

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From: Mandan, ND

Quote:

Originally Posted by petemcl

I agree with Ross. They probably are getting bounced the wrong way and too hard in shipping.

Could be. Threre's a famous carb builder in Florida that is the subject of many Hamb posts. One problem that comes up is glass beads still in carb bodies. I believe there has been stories about mismatched internal parts as well.

I used to go to the Portland swap meet when I lived in OR. A fellow always had several tables filled with rebuilt carbs. Many had incorrect linkage pieces, not a big deal unless you needed one 100% correct. A fellow I knew had bought a 2X2 setup for his '50 convertible from this WA rebuilder. One carb had a couple of oversized airhorn screws; the original screws had stripped the threads. Seems a couple of helicoils would have been a better fix.

Boiled down, anything is possible with large rebuilders.

May 1, 2012 | 11:36 AM

#20

ALBUQ F-1

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From: NM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1952henry

...One carb had a couple of oversized airhorn screws; the original screws had stripped the threads. Seems a couple of helicoils would have been a better fix.

He probably got that carb with O/S screws from me. Larger screws are free, a helicoil set for that size isn't.

Quote:

Boiled down, anything is possible with large rebuilders.

That's why I'd want to check the jets. Somebody could turn in a core with #55 main jets, and I don't think they'd bother to change them.

May 1, 2012 | 01:12 PM

#21

1952henry

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From: Mandan, ND

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

He probably got that carb with O/S screws from me. Larger screws are free, a helicoil set for that size isn't.

That's why I'd want to check the jets. Somebody could turn in a core with #55 main jets, and I don't think they'd bother to change them.

That's true, but for the effort/time I put into restoring a carb for someone, that extra bit is worth it to me.

May 2, 2012 | 08:31 AM

#22

1951flatheaddave

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From: PA, North of Pittsburgh

Ross posted a good link for checking the float level and rebuildiong the 2110 series carb. When I get my new carb in the mail tomorrow I want to be prepared to measure the float rise and drop.

Does anyone have these measurements handy?

Also, what is the best tool to use to measure these, I dont have a float gauge. Can I pick one up at a local auto parts store?

May 2, 2012 | 09:01 AM

#23

1951flatheaddave

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From: PA, North of Pittsburgh

Did some research, tell me if this sounds right...

Carb Air Horn upside down float should measure 1 11/32 (1.34") to 1 3/8 (1.375") and right side up the float should measure about 1 3/4 (1.75")

Fuel Level should be 15/16 (.937") from the top of the fuel bowl gasket surface to the top of the fuel level in the carb.

It says if the fuel level is higher than 15/16 from the top of the fuel bowl fuel will leak into the accelerator pump housing and leak fuel every time the gas pedal is pushed, my exact problem!!!

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May 2, 2012 | 11:22 AM

#24

1952henry

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Joined: Jan 2004

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From: Mandan, ND

Shoot for the 1 3/8". 5/8" drop sound right.

May 2, 2012 | 12:08 PM

#25

ALBUQ F-1

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From: NM

The key to the float drop setting is that the needle doesn't come out of the seat so far that it binds or even falls out. It's much more of an issue on these hobby cars that sit long enough for the fuel in the bowl to evaporate.