Hi, I have a 2003 motor that does not fire on cylinders 1,3,7 for about 10 to 15 minutes of idle until warm, from then on it runs perfectly.
This Monday ( in 2 days) I intend removing the passenger side head cover, replacing the internal wiring harness with new gasket, new wiring harness pigtail and also the GP's. I am an OK mechanic but not a Pro. I have two questions please;

#1 Anything I should watch out for?
#2 I have read some horror stories about broken GP's, if they test out OK should I just leave the old ones in ?

Thanks, Pete.

 

Go ahead and do the 50 cent mod while you are at it. In fact that may be all that is wrong with it unless you have done it already.
Glow plugs aren't too expensive and they are easy to do. If you gave the money I would do them

 

Thank you, now what is this 50 cent Mod please? and yes I have already purchased new glow plugs.

 

Here ya go.... [LINK]

 

GREAT! Thanks Tugly.

 

Thanks Tugly I am on my phone so it is hard to respond with the neccesary links.

 

What brand? Autolites have a bad rep for swelling at the tip and breaking off. Motorcraft has a pretty good rep.

 

Diesel Rx. (made in the USA)
Part #. DRX00138

Website; DieselRx® – Improving Diesel Performance with Quality Diesel Engine Parts

 

When you're removing the passenger side valve cover, you need to be aware that the thing holding the dipstick tube flange on the bolt is just a nut. If that nut has been overtightened or is seized, it will start to spin the dipstick tube, which is bad.

If you can't break the nut loose without twisting the dipstick tube, get some channel locks and grab the flange to hold it still, or use a wrench on the nut below the flange as a back up so you don't ruin your dipstick tube.

Also re-torque your rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft lbs and the lower injector hold down bolt to 120 in lbs while you're in there.

 

When I was doing my GP's I called Clay at Riffraff and he said stick with OE GP's.

 

I am getting lot's of great info. here, thanks guys.
Of course I'll keep you informed of the results.

Pete.

 

Results of work;

First off I found a 5ft long tobacco/orange colored snake sat on top of the engine and most indignant. After 90 minutes I was able tohook it out without being biten.

The valve cover was an absolute bear to get off as the fire wall was in the way. Finally I got this off and noted all the connections looked good.

I cranked the engine with no pre-heat to look for oil flow and it IMMEDIATELY started something it has never done since I owned it although it is a warm day today. Alas it was not running on all cylinders so I changed out the gasket and wiring harness, still with no difference. Next I disconnected the injector feed wires one at a time until all four was disconnected still no difference so obviously this engine was running on only 4 cylinders on the drivers side. I checked out the original 4 GP,s and all measured good so I have not changed them out. I noted that the oil is very thick and black but I seem to doubt this would only prevent on side and 4 injectors from firing.

NextI measured voltage at the injector plugs it was only 2 volts DC but I am not sure if my meter is fast enough to catch the pulses?

Finally I checked the multi connector plug tops and bases going to the HV box and also the fire wall. The fire wall pins were very corroded and I cleaned both very well. Then I tried again; same thing but it appears it may be running on a cylinder or two MORE now, still not all eight though and as it normally picks up after 10 minutes anyway I am not sure it wasn't simply the warmth of several short runs curing the problem as usual?

So I appear to be left with;
Dirty oil
4 bad injectors
Bad HV box.

The injectors look like a real pain to get out with the firewall so close. I was thinking first an oil change (with flushing) then perhaps a junk yard HV box?
Last resort the injectors.

Any thoughts guys?

PS, There is a leak on the exhaust pipe between the manifold and turbo charger Y piece, same side as the problem. It spits out occassionally under pressure if I rev high while the engine is missing. Also wriggling the connectors to the HV box and fire wall socket makes no difference.

I never could tell what oil is flowing from the injectors I can't see in there well enough. Also I don't have a clues how to remove the injectors if needs be. (I hope not)

 

The passenger side valve cover is a little bit stubborn but is not too bad if you remove the IC pipe and the oil filler neck. The injectors spit oil out t the top of the injector just under the solenoid. There is a deflector that directs it down. If working properly it is easy to see.
I would definetly do an oil change if it is thick. It should not be thick.
The injectors are not hard to remove. There is a good write up on them. You just have to remove the lower bolt on the injector hold down. Then slide the hold down towards the engine valley and pry the injector up. I usea brake spoon to pry the out.

I am not sure I know what you mean about the hv box.

 

Oh yeah and as for the leak at the up pipes. It is best to get new up pipes from riffraff. They are a new design that prevents this from happening. You can replace the stock washer that is in there but it usually starts leaking again.
The leak will cause low boost which in turn can cause high egts, lw power and poor fuel economy. If you can afford it go with the ceramic coated up pipes. I hear it's worth it. When mine start leaking that is what I will get.

 

I have now learned the correct name for the "HV box" I mean the IDM. I have found one for $159 remanned which is obviously much cheaper than 4 injectors. There certainly was little oil flowing in the valve chain area I call it rockers if that makes sense in the USA?), this coupled with low volts is suggesting to me that it may be the IDM ??

Thanks, Pete.