I have been informed by a seller of IDM's that the fact only one side (passenger) is affected is a dead giveaway that the IDM is defective. I realize this may be sales talk but it is only going to cost me $99 exchange so I have ordered it and am keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Sorry don't know about that part. But you can get the hi voltage hi frequency IDM for around 350 i think

 

I found a IDM for $99 so I have ordered it and will keep my fingers crossed. Seller (Dealer/programmer for IDM's) says that because problem is affecting just one side and all four injectors is a giveaway that IDM is bad ?

Any idea how much oil I will need to buy?

 

If you drain it all it is 15 quarts. Since yours is thick and black I would suck it out of the hpop reservoir and refill it.

 

Thank you, I shall flush it too.

 

How convenient. Someone that sells IDM's says it sounds like an IDM issue. While you're waiting on the mail, grab your multimeter and set it to read ohms. You can't properly catch voltage without an oscilloscope. Unplug the connector on the outside of the valve cover gasket on the bad side and ohm the injector pins (3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th) against the center (5th) pin. Look for a difference in ohm readings between the injectors. If one injector reads 0.5 ohms or more off it could indicate a bad injector solenoid.

If one injector reads off, unplug it and clear the codes (disconnect the batteries for a bit if nothing else). Then start it up and see if the miss is any better, like it's only missing on one cylinder instead of 4. A bad injector solenoid will cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank. Unplugging an injector without clearing the codes doesn't automatically reset the IDM.

 

Thanks Chris. Right now I think I'll wait for the replacement IDM, if that doesn't cure the issue I try ohming out the connections as you say.

Also thinking (because of your advice) maybe the corroded bulk head connector was the problem but I didn't clear the fault (by disconnecting the battery) after cleaning it? That would take just seconds to try!

 

Chris. My last idea didn't work so as the connector is extremely hard to get to for test I intend the following tomorrow;

Take your idea BUT cut off a plug from the old harness then check each injector for resistance directly. Sound ok ??

If I do find a bad one can I change out just the solenoid and not the whole injector?

 

I'd suggest you ohm the injectors through the pass thru connector in the valve cover so you're testing the wiring and connection under the valve cover also.

Yes it's possible to only swap an injector solenoid if you find a bad one. It just takes 4 torx screws to remove and then it's a simple swap. The problem is, not many places will sell only an injector solenoid.

If you find one solenoid that reads off from the others, swap it with the injector solenoid next to it and re-test. If the problem follows the solenoid, it's time to buy a new injector or solenoid if you can find one. If the problem stays in the same hole, it's time to start checking the wiring or pass thru connector in the valve cover gasket.

 

Yes, you can buy just the solenoid and change it out. I think around fifty dollars, they may be cheaper.

Chet

 

Thanks guys. remember I just today changed out the entire gasket/passthrough/internal harness with no change.

 

I know, but keep an open mind. New doesn't always equal good.

 

OK. Thanks.
I'll keep you informed.

 

Well after changing out the UVCH I changed out the IDM and as both F350-6 and I suspected it made no difference. I changed the really yucky oil including the H-POP reservoir because I wanted to start with nearly all fresh 5w-40 Rotella T6. It fired up immediately (amazingly easy) but;

Checking oil flow at injector spouts on passenger side;

Only #1 flowing
5 minutes of idle and reaching about 80F #7 also flowing.
another 10 minutes of idle (reaching about 120F) and all flowing.

I'd like to point out that this (188K mile) engine runs really smooth with no smoke and plenty of power once all injectors are firing.

Before I pull replace the injectors, which I can't afford at present, Can low oil pressure (dash gauge shows high) be the problem or is there anyway to clean the injectors?

I am in no rush as I don't normally drive this RV/box truck.

 

If this great team doesn't come up with a better idea my plan at present is to;
swap #1 (always working) solenoid for #7 (easy to get to) solenoid. If no change is observed then purchase just ONE re-man injector for #7 to see if there is any difference.

I appreciate that doing just one injector is more work but I am tight for money at present and only living in the RV not driving it, therefore I can leave the valve cover off.

Thoughts please?

PS. Just tried to remove one solenoid and no torx I have seems to fit right. Either to small, too large or does not penetrate very far into head. I didn't try as I am concerned that I will strip it.
It seems to go in just a 1/32" or less, torx are with six "stars" right ?