Wow! I see that now! It's hitting the face of the flywheel! That is unacceptable, even if the disc could move further back. You "could" grind some off the rivets, see if it clears then, but I wouldn't take much off.

 

He's got it the right way.

 

Good advice, I just wish I knew why the disc wont move away from the flywheel. Is it too thick, is .38 too thick? I looked in my shop manual but couldnt find any measurements.

 

It really doesn't need to move more than like .010", as long as there isn't pressure on it. In essence, it is already "back", because the rivets are holding it away from the flywheel.

You could also grind the flywheel at the center recess, put a bevel on it. I bet it has a sharp edge from surfacing? Would need to be done smoothly tho.

 

The rivets are wearing on the metal lip right before the finished flywheel surface starts. Its the area where the flywheel bolts are at, there is a lip that is recessed for the bolts right before where the finished smooth part is. It doesnt rub anymore, enough of the rivet was ground away when it was running

 

With the trans, clutch disc, and no pressure plate all bolted up the clutch disc is so tight to the flywheel you can not move it at all. The disc used to rub the flywheel but the rivets are ground away enough that I dont think thats an issue anymore. I agree, if it would slide away from the motor .010 just so there was no pressure on the disc I would be good. Just not sure why it wont budge, even with no pressure plate

 

Are you sure the rivets completely clear when the PP is shoving against it?

There should be one surface, the one the friction material bears on.

About all I can say is it might be worth getting another disc to compare with; even a 10" (which is more common and likely to be stocked).

 

The rivets are wearing where your finished surface steps down that 1/4 inch before it drops down a 1/2" to your bolt surface.

I looked at advance and they cant even get a 10" clutch. They ordered me another 11" in and will be here tuesday. Do you have a number for a 10" at napa or something? Should I be running a 10" with the panel van trans? Could that be the cause of my problem?

 

The diameter of the clutch disk doesn't effect the transmission - the only clearence issues that I know of are with the pressure plate mounting holes, the finger clearence, and the flywheel bolts - The tranny is the dump part ti just sits there and spins
I drove the truck with that tranny - the clutch was warn but it shifted smooth and made wonderful flatmotor noises.

 

I dont think its the transmission at all. I truly believe the trouble is in the clutch.

Dick, I figure that you know this...What is the spec for clutch disc thickness? Mine is measuring .380, is that right?

 

I've never seen a spec for thickness; it's hard to spec because of the "marcel" (steel spring strips) between the two facings. It is designed to compress. Note that a thinner facing would put the rivet further into the flywheel...

 

i will throw in my 2 cents. i have had this same problem and probably solved it the wrong way. 11 plus years ago when i bought my 239 and 4 speed i got a great deal because you had to start it in gear and then couldnt shift it or start it in neutral then couldnt get it in gear. the pressure plate was pinching the disc to the flywheel and nothing would let it go. i talked to a old hot rodder friend and he said O Yea, put washers between the pressure plate and flywheel where they bolt together. i did as i was told and it started and shifted no problem. the truck was put in storage shortly after that but i have always wondered if there was a better fix than 6 flat washers. i dont know exactly what the correct fix is, but i know the problem. when you step on the clutch, it doesnt stroke far enough to release the disc from the flywheel. i will be watching to see if there is a correct fix for this problem. Good Luck!

 

Its even worse than that though...I dont even have my pressure plate in the truck right now.

I have the trans with the clutch disc slid over the input shaft. I have the trans installed in the pilot bearing and snugged down. The pressure plate is on the bench so it cant push the disc against the flywheel.

The disc is is wedged so tightly against the flywheel it wont spin, or even move away from the flywheel. I figured with no pressure plate installed the disc would easily spin and move away from the flywheel. Wrong! Its like a direct drive setup right now.

 

Hi ,
This might sound silly but I think it might help figure out what is wrong. Pull the trans and make a lite cardboard gasket (shim) and put it between the trans and bell housing to see if it makes a difference. If it does perhaps you could then make a metal shim to replace the cardboard.
I am suggesting this as I don't recall if you drove the pick up with this trans and the old clutch. Perhaps there is a difference between bell housings or pilot shaft lengths.
Just a thought that would cost nothing but time. Good luck.

 

Dave
Just to say you did - Take a thin flat file and run it on both sides of the input splines - Maybe there is a burr or a bugger that you didn't see