Here are some photos of the door when i close it. To completely shut the door i need to push up under the handle hard to close the gap. Any ideas how to fix this easy? Do you think it's a door pillar problem? There is no weather stripping on this either I'm going to bring out the old jack and shims tomorrow

 

First, it looks like that front fender has been hit and moved back or the wind or something caught the door when it was open and bent it backwards. To adjust the door, Loosen the hinge bolts in the door, Leave one in each hinge just tight enough that you can move the door, but it stays in place. Next loosen or remove the latch striker. Now close the door and shim it up so the gap is the same all the way around. Have a helper inside tighten the hinge bolts tight. Remove the shims and check the door to see that the door remains at that adjustment. If it drops noticeably when you remove the shims you need new hinges or hinge pins. If the front edge hits the fender, the fender or door is bent. Now check the in and out fit, is it even with the cab? If not loosen the hinge bolts in the pillar and move the door in and out. This will be a little more trial and error since the door will need to be open to adjust and retighten. Scratching a line around the hinge with a sharp awl or icepick will help you to see which way you moved it and how much. Once you have the door hanging straight in the opening, go back and adjust the striker so it catches fully but does not pick the door up when it latches. The latch will never be quite right until you replace the weatherstripping. Also examine the latch for wear, the pre 56 latches were known to wear and pop open when the truck hits a bump or when you go around a corner too fast. Replace a worn latch with a new one or with a more modern design one, especially if you don't have seat belts!

 

I will be doing this tomorrow. Hopefully my brother decides to get up and help me.

 

I had to enlarge the slotted holes in the hinges using a 1/4" rat tail file to allow a little more adjustment. Also, my doors won't close flush with the new seals. I assume as the seal breaks in a bit I can adjust the strike to pull it in a bit.

Don't feel bad if they don't work perfectly. I'm guessing that Stalone paid more than any 4 of us will put into our trucks for his satin black 56 in "The Untouchables". I had to laugh when he gets out and slams the door and it doesn't latch.

 

The solid door seals are stiff and need time to compress, that can take some time depending on your climate. The hollow seals are softer and don't need breaking in.

Stallone's truck was a joke all the way around, that's what he gets for using the clowns at West Coast Customs.
He supplied them with 3 56's and they were supposed to build 3 clones, one good one for him to keep and two to be destroyed. They chopped the tops on all three by bending in the windshield posts instead of stretching the roofs, then discovered they couldn't get the cut windshield glass to fit. They couldn't find 3 more 56 cabs to use or figure out how to fix the windshield problem, so they substituted 3 slant cabs at the last minute instead. It is said that Stallone was not pleased!

 

Stallone looked really pissed in a few scenes in the movie. He must of been thinking about his "56" Ford. The you tube documentary by California Customs was almost as bad as the stupidity of Paul and Paul and Orange County Choppers.

Also, I have the hollow seals and they fit pretty good but I think they will fit even better and not need to slam the door as hard when they break in a little.

 

One thing that throws these cabs off is the cab mount. Under the front cab mount there is a metal pad that rusts and the cab leans. With this lean you get hood issues and door alignment issues no matter how much adjustment you do, ask me how I know. Just something to check fyi.