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I'm haveing problems getting my doors to shut I have over 1/2 in at the top but when I push the door up it rubs the cab when I open/close the door. Then the striker will not catch the star part to keep it close. Do anyone have a simple procedure to fix this.
Thanks
Jaye
There's been discussion of this a few times. You might do a thread search. The fix involves use of a 2x4 to bend the hinge back in line. I think the service manual even cites this remedy if I'm not mistaken. Good luck.
Do you have a Shop Manual? The whole procedure for door adjustment (and re-shaping, if necessary) is covered there. It is a little difficult to explain here. One of FTE's sponsors, Motorhaven sells them.
The first thing to do is figure out if your problems are being caused by worn hinge pins.
Open the door ~ 6-8" and put a 2x4 between the end of the door and the running board. Lift up LIGHTLY and see if there is any up and down movement of the door. If there is, you'll need to replace the hinge pins or hinges first before attempting to adjust it. Assuming the hinges are good or replaced, next remove the door cover plates over the hinges and loosen the bolts securing the hinges to the door and loosen the latch plate on the rear door post. Now gently close the door and put blocks and shims under the bottom edge of the door until the gap is even all the way around. If the door doesn't move around easily, you may need to loosen the hinge bolts a little more until it does. Once you have the door in position, crawl in from the other side and firmly tighten the hinge bolts. A helper is handy to make sure the door doesn't move out of position or to be inside ready to tighten the bolts. Take out the blocks and check the door swing, making sure the door doesn't rub as it opens and closes and returns to the desired placement in the opening. If all is well, adjust the catch plate to engage the star wheel and hold the door closed flush with the cab. If the door rubs or is too close at the front edge and has too large a gap at the rear, open the door and place a short length of 2x4 that spans the two hinges vertically against the hinges. close the door until the board is pinched in, then give it one or two firm pushes on the rear of the door to spring the hinges slightly. Remove the board and check your progress, repeating as necessary until the door fits evenly front to back. If it is too far rearwards in the opening, insert the end of a short length of 2x4 from the inside of the cab between the nearly closed rear of the door and the door frame, being sure you are not in so far that you are catching the outer edge of the door and pry the door forwards until the gap is even front to rear. Note: it is much easier to adjust the doors if you remove the seat first.
Also, if you have new seals, make sure they are not preventing the door from closing all the way. If they are, seals should be shaved. I fit my doors with no seals, the applied them and shaved where necessary. Worked for me.
"Shave" the doors? How does one shave the seals? I went out there with my Gillette, and diddnt get very far.
I added new weather stripping last winter, and my doors never fit right again. I just now removed the stripping, and the doors finally close right. Im in need of some very thin, or very soft and thin seals. I saw a package of universal stripping that one of the guys bought from an auto parts store, and said worked great. I think Im going to go the same route, I just need the thin soft stuff.
OK all you wise acres!! I shaved my seals with a high speed grinder and rotary file + a box cutter. Close a piece of paper in the door to see where they are tight. Thin seals are available from several of the vendors, wish I had bought them .
To shave seals they must be put in a straight jacket, that's the fun part. Or wack them with a bat. Whales dont shave, thought everyone new that.
Cheers
Fred
RandyJack has posted a couple of times about some ''one size fits all'' weatherstrip he got at Pep Boys, there may be a picture of the package in his gallery now that I think about it.(?)