Hello gents,
I have read quite a few posts on the integrated brake controller but wanted to hear a little more close to my issues. Appreciate it.
First off, I have a 2010 F350 Srw extended cab long bed. I bought it used and I can see the previous owner was pulling a trailer also. Recently when pulling our Rv, cruising down the byway and hit a bump, the chime and message comes up saying "trailer disconnected". The standard 7-pin rv plug when pushed in never did seat very tight if you ask me. So,,, I had my neighbor with his Dodge truck hookup to our rv and everything worked fine with trailer brakes. So, this told me it is not our rv. I think it is the brake controller or a bad male hookup. Tried the hookup again and the controller message is "no trailer", (Pita), turned on the lights and the rv lights come on , threw the tool bag on the braked pedal and the brake lights come on -on the trailer. This is now telling it is not the rv. so,,,,, called Ford dealer and set up an appointement for next Tuesday to run a electrical test. $90 for the test, unless they determine it is a faulty plug, this is my last year for warrenty. This is where I am at with this problem. Just wondering if others are comparable. For 2010 it is just the squeeze + and - thing for the gain, but gain and trailer connected, disconnected comes up in the dash. Appreciate any input or suggestions.
Much ablighed.

 

I had mine replaced once on my 06 and once on my 08 and it just started doing it again. It continues to function properly when it displays the message so i'm leaving it.

My dash now beeps for the trailer and low tire pressure as I refuse to drive with the amount of air pressure Ford recommends.

 

Pretty much same problem here. Solved it last weekend. Connect trailer 7 pin to truck. No need to connect hitch. Clip your jumper cables from the trailer tongue to the truck(hitch,/bumper/frame) Check for faults/disconnect indication. Solved mine. My plan tonight is to crawl under the truck and trailer and inspect and install a new ground lug on each. White wire on 7 pin is ground.
I think I started this problem after I took a buddies advice an lubed the ball and trailer receptacle with grease. But the problem is solved at least temporarily.
Alas, I cannot take credit for this troubleshooting technique. I did a google search and it took me to "drum roll please" Ford Truck Enthusiast forums.
So kudos to whoever posted the fix. I cannot seem to find the exact post again to give much deserved reps to.

 

i fixed a trailer that was doing this by tapping the white wire on the trailer and screwing a ground strap to the trailer frame apparently not all the electrical gets its ground from the wire. one of my friends suggested that the trailer grounds through the hitch which is why i installed the wire.

 

My problem is not the trailer....as it happens with any trailer I connect.

What is wrong with grease on the receiver and ball?

 

There shold be nothing wrong with greasing the ball. The ground for anything should not depend on the hitch. My 05 had the factory socket get all corroded between the two pieces of the plug. Most aftermarket sockets will be one piece. Also worn electric brakes on the trailer will give me a "trailer fault" warning even though the brakes work ok. Any indicated ground fault will set off the warning. The warnings are a real PITA. Absolutely everything has to be well connected or you get warnings. Get the highest quality plugs and sockets you can find and clean and check all grounds cosely.

 

Appreciate the input on the integrated brake controller. Crawled under the travel trailer and for two days, redid each wire coming out of brake hub and even shrink wrapped each. Each were full of corosion. Next pulled the wheels off, repacked bearings, cleaned hubs and magnets. Re-ajusted brakes. Hooked up the Truck and Travel and went for a test ride and everything seems to work great. So,,, for now until our next long trip things are fine. And I believe everything will be fine. Just needed to do some good old PM on the travel trailer. Again, appreciate the replys and input. And saved $90 not going to the dealer.
Cheers.

 

After towing for 3 years, I started getting the "trailer disconnect" warning.
The trailer brakes seemed to work, b ut this is not a indication to ignore.
It happened so infrequently, that it was tough to diagnose.
It started to become more frequent so I took a shotgun approach.
1. I replaced the original frame connection/plug completely.
2. I replaced my added on truck bed connection completely.
( using BARGMAN molded connectors with intigrated cable )
All connections made mechanically sound and soldered. (old school)
I added a #6 copper wire from the battery ground pigtail lug connecting the battery(s) to the chassis, completely back to the common grounds for the trailer plugs and solidly mounted it to the frame.
I made it inspectable and readily cleanable.
My thought was that the brake controller sends a small signal out to test trailer connection. The return for this signal is the bulk of the chassis/body. It wouldn't take much corrosion to increase the resistance of this path. Maybe enough to lose this signal . I dunno.

Anyway, The indication has not returned with considerable towing.

F550 2005 with LINK air suspension hauling a NEWMAR 5th wheel. Tandem dual wheel axles (8 tires) with electric over hydraulic discs.
I do my own work and you can't imagine what the parts cost.

 

I had the same problem. Cleaned and treated both the truck plug and trailer plug connections. Put some dieletric grease on both connectors. Check the blades on the trailer connectors. if they are spread to far apart they will not make a solid connection. Check the ground wires as suggested in previous posts. Sounds like an intermittent wiring problem more so than a brake controller issue. The other question is does it have electric brakes? Sometimes if the battery connection on the trailer is not solid you will get that message. Good luck!

 

i was towing my boat last night with my 2008 F350 Diesel... hooked up the connector, went to adjust my TBC gain on the trailer brake, and the message on the dash came up... "Trailer Disconnected", I went out, checked the lights and the connections, everything was fine. So i started towing, set the gain to 8.0, pulled the lever and the trailer brakes worked just fine, but the dash still said "Trailer Disconnected"... whats the issue here? my buddy said he gets the same message with his 2006 F350.... is it the trailer?

 

any ideas?

 

My bosses 09 F450 does this too, with either of his trailers. Just randomly pops up

 

Not necessarily a fix...

For the past couple of years, I've used a short bungee cord to keep the plug in place (the little tab on the door broke off). Before that tab broke, I did see 'Trailer Disconnected' on rare occasions.

But now, come to think of it, I haven't seen the 'Trailer Disconnected' message since I've been using that bungee cord. Hmm...

 

The "trailer disconnected" warning on my '06 F-260 came on
after one electric brake wire became broken. Fixed broken wire-no
more light. This on 2 axle car hauler with brakes on only one axle.

 

If you get any corrosion between the controller and the frame ground
point pr a loose connector you can get that warning. The system send
a test voltage to the brakes that is not enough to apply them and if there
is a high resistance in that circuit like a corroded connector that you get
the message. A few places to check. Back side of the 7way plug, The
point on the frame where the cable to the 7way comes off the harness.
All splices and connections on the trailer. And some dielectric grease
is a very good idea to help keep things clean and dry. If you see any
green fuzz that connection is bad and the place you see that most is the
back side of the 7way plug on the hitch.

Sean