I've had a recurring problem with my Integrated Brake Controller as well, and was hoping someone might have some answers. I took it to Ford, where it 'apparently' checked out ok, for nearly $100.00 for their time/effort.
What I'm finding is, when using the service brake pedal to stop, I'm not feeling the trailer brakes at all. I have the setting up to '8' so they should be coming on fairly hard I would think? If/when using the manual method of pulling the + - on the controller, I feel the brakes come on, but again, not all that hard, but they are at least coming on.
I then take my trailer out to on of our popular trailer repair/hitch places locally (twice) pay them similarly to Ford each time, where they took the wheels off, checked brakes/bearings, and they say all is good. Well, still, nothing happening when pushing the brake pedal!
The only thing I can think of next, is to change the actual Integrated Brake Controller, and I assume it needs to be done by Ford, as I believe the controller and trucks computer have to talk to one another?
I took was under the trailer for a good part of a day, inspecting/replacing wiring, just in case that was the issue. The ground looked a little suspect under the trailer, so I replaced that as well as cleaned up where it attaches, with really no changes/results!

Thoughts/comments/advice?

Thanks in advance!

 

What speed ar you doing this at?


Sean

 

I've been having this ongoing issue for some time now. I have an 2009 Ford F450, and everything 'use' to work fine, but now I don't seem to be getting any brake action on the trailer when pushing the brake pedal. I can get the trailer brakes to come on if I manually move the Intergrated brake lever to the left...just not with the brake pedal.
I've had it to Ford, ($100.00) who told me the problem 'must' be with the trailer...have had it to the trailer repair place TWICE now ($100.00 each time) who checked the wiring, greased the bearings and adjusted the brakes, but still I'm not feeling anything when I push on the brake pedal....even moving the setting up to 8, where 3.5 is usually adequate. Ground wire has been taken off on trailer...ground down and reattached with new terminal. All lights come on just fine at the trailer, signals all work fine...just no brakes when pushing the truck brake pedal?
Briefly looked at the 'under hood' fuses, and nothing seems amiss. No codes related to the integrated brake controller. One thing I've found...is that I have NO 12V connection when trying to find power at the 7 way plug ( one o'clock position)! I understand that this is for 'inside' lights, and back up lights...but I'm getting nothing at this junction, although I don't know if it might affect the braking of the trailer? I don't have a schematic, so I don't know where to look to see if it's a fuse, or why I might not be now getting 12V at this part of the 7 way truck connector? I believe on these F series trucks there are more fuses...but again, which one would be for this 12V wire at the 7 way plug...I don't know?
Also, perhaps some of you might have some knowledge in....should I see 12V power at the 'blue' wire (trailer brake wire)? I was told that no power is sent to the trailer until the truck is in motion (10 mph and above?). When I check it (key on) but obviously with the truck not moving, I don't get any 12V showing on the blue wire either?

Well, hopefully some of this might make sense, and trigger some input, as it seems I'm throwing good money after bad on this issue lately! I've AGAIN made an appointment with Ford to have this checked (no warranty now) but I'm hoping I can find an answer before next week, and fix this myself.

thanks in advance folks!

 

I don't have the right year diagrams to show you. But
The 12v on that plug should come with key on to also
charge the battery in the brake system in the trailer.
Is that battery charging? The diagram will really help.
You need to have someone with a scanner that can watch
some body data with you trailer on that truck and see
if the peddle is activating things.

Also back to my other question when testing how fast were you going?
Did you do the calibration run to set the gain on the TBC? I "think" the
low end is about 15 MPH for it to make the trailer brakes activate.
I recall that you need to be running at 20 MPH when you set the gain.
It's been a while and have not towed with any thing with electric brakes
in a long time.


Sean

 

I'll assume you mean, how fast I'm going when I either apply the brake pedal, or manually move the integrated brake controller lever? Don't remember now, as the trailer has been sitting all winter, but basically 'road speed' and when coming up to a red light, I'm not feeling any indication that the trailer brakes are coming on.
Obviously, when out checking things now, the truck is in driveway, so I'm trying to find why I'm not getting 12V power to the indicated connector on the 7 way plug! I did make sure that the (negative) ground is working properly on the 7 way plug...just when the truck is sitting in the driveway...key in the 'on' position, there is NO 12V power at the 7 way connector, or the trailer brake connector. This is in using a 'tester' light, with the one end grounded, and then testing the two prongs on the 7 way plug. I believe the 12V operates the internal lights of my enclosed trailer, and charges the battery. I ALSO have a 7 way plug connector in the bed of the truck, which my slide in camper attaches to. I again, assume the 12V is needed to keep the camper batteries charged while driving? Checking the 'in-bed' 7 way connector, it's exactly like the other plug under the bumper, where it shows no 12V power.
I'll also mention...in the past, it's never been an issue, as the integrated controller is usually set at 3 - 3.5 for good braking (if set to 4 I sometimes would hear the trailer tires squeal, so 3 is usually good in my case. I now have it set at 8.5, and I'm not feeling the trailer brakes when pushing the brake pedal. Trailer has been checked out, as mentioned, and brakes have been set up...
Not sure if any of this helps, but thought I'd mention this, in case it helps. Oh...I did just check the related fuses under the passenger side kick panel, and all are working fine.

 

I did some digging and found that everyone seems to hook that plug
up to there own diagram ie No standard wiring diagram.
Here is the 06~07 Ford diagram.

C4099 is the 7 way and C4098 is the 4 way for the 06~07
Looks to be the same. But be sure to check things out.

Sean

 

Biggest problem with brake controllers is always going to be that the trailer and the truck need to be on a common ground. That little ground pin in the plug is what is connecting both frames. When that ground gets flaky, funny stuff can happen because the hitch itself becomes your ground path. Trailer lights may flicker over bumps, TBC get weird signals, etc. The problem bringing the truck in for service is everything may seem fine if it is being tested without your trailer. If you suspect grounding is your problem, use a jumper cable as previously mentioned and make the jumper cable ground your trailer. If the odd problems go away, start cleaning up your ground for the trailer.

 

I think he said that they did that at one point. But that does
bring up the other problem location and you would think a
Ford tech would of checked it.

Pull the plug out of the bracket and then remove the tiny
screw that holds the plug into the socket that you just removed.
Your looking for green fuzz. If you find it that most likely is the
the problem. If it's clean still give it a good cleaning with contact
cleaner and then add some dielectric grease to keep it dry.



Sean

 

I don't know if you found your issue yet but I had the same problem. Newer brakes on my fifth wheel and gain up to 10 and barely any action. You mention that you have an in bed plug as well. I had the same setup and I used a harness that plugged into the factory under bumper plug from the backside and T'eed the connection up to the bed. I found my problem when I unplugged this T'ee from the factory harness. The T plug allowed water into the connection and just about everything was green and corroded. I actually got rid of the connectors by soldering and shrink wrapping the wires. My gain is now back to 4. Hope this helps.

 

More than likely this is the reason you are not getting the 12v signal as well. Make sure to check the "Trailer Charge" fuse in the under hood box as well. Also, some trucks came with the trailer charge relay not installed and it was located in a bag in the glove box with the aftermarket brake control harness.

 

The confusion surrounds Ford's TBC has been going on since the day it was introduced.

First of all, pushing down on the pedal while stopped does next to nothing. If you jump to the towing section, I used my clamp meter and did a manual activation versus pedal activation while static and compared the output in Amps using my tester.

While moving, and using the pedal, you are not supposed to feel the trailer brakes activate. The action is supposed to be in line with the rate of deacceleration of the truck.

Anytime you want to isolate the trailer from the truck, leave the trailer coupled, but pull the seven pin from the truck, then pull the break-away switch on the trailer with a fully charged battery on the trailer. If you can move the trailer, the problem with with the trailer.

If the trailer is stuck fast doing the above, put the pin back in and jack up one trailer wheel. Now have someone activate the manual switch on the TBC while attempting to turn the wheel. If the wheel is stuck fast, the circuit to the wheels is good.

So now you are thinking, yes the connection is good, but the current to them might not be strong enough. If you have a clamp meter, put it on the blue lead, easy to do at the J-box of the trailer, have someone operate the controller manually. If you have over 10 amps, you should have a good circuit from the brake controller to the brakes and have ample stopping power. If things are perfect you will see 12 or slightly over depending on which magnets your trailer brakes have. If you do not have a clamp meter, you can use a 10 amp fuse in series with the blue lead. When you activate manually the fuse should blow. You can also listen at the trailer wheels and you will hear the brakes "hum". No, I don't know what song they are humming.

Now, if you want a better way, to know if the TBC is working, go to an RV dealer with a test box that has the 20-foot cord so they can plug it in and take a ride with you (that is what I use). The test box emulates the trailer magnets. You can actually sit in the truck and watch the brake output in amps on the box while you make a series of stops.

For the dreaded "no trailer" signal, it has been well covered above and is a connection issue. The weak area on the seven pin on the truck is the back of the plug under the bumper. The ground pin in the plug is at a low point in the first iteration Ford plugs and most others and rusts badly or completely off. Other problem areas are the front of the seven pin and the ground.

Here is what it can look like from the back of the seven pin




Sorry for the too long post.

Steve

 

Steve do you see any better survivability of the pins
when they are assembled with dielectric grease and
if the owner takes the time every few years to clean
the old grease and put in fresh or top it over with fresh?


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I believe anything that seals moisture out is helpful.

Here is a helpful link about maintaining contacts. Motor Magazine Reviews - 17

I carry a small bottle of Stabilant, discussed in the link, in my service truck. The article is old, but the information is pertinent. That stuff works like magic. It takes just a few drops to bring a poor connection back to life. Not saying it takes the place of routine maintenance, but it is a quick easy fix for most things that ail seven pins.

Steve

 

It is always (Well 90% of the time) a corrosion issue or bent pins. A new umbilical if it is on the trailer end and a new 7 pin if it is the truck will do the trick 90% of the time (If it is as explained intermittent).

 

I disagree. There has been a standard for over 50 years and all dealers and trailer manufacturers follow it. It is the homebrew crowd that create their own pinout.