Battery Light Keeps coming on???
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Battery Light Keeps coming on???
This one is crazy changed the Alternator twice Battery light in Dash comes on and batteries are not charging when its on? It comes on at the same time everyday about 40-45 min into my ride home and it comes on? I Also replace the plug in receptor for the alternator i believe it was three prong all Ford products are used on this vehicle. Today the light started to flicker on and off and then my dash controls and radio went out a couple times (Gauges speedometer Radio)???
This truck is driving me crazy its a 2006 6.0L 162,000
Things Change Already!
FICM
4 Injectors
Alternator 2times because of this
Plug in back of Alternator Because of this
Head Gaskets
EGR Cooler
Please need some help guy's what do you think? Would be much appreciated Thanks Tom
This truck is driving me crazy its a 2006 6.0L 162,000
Things Change Already!
FICM
4 Injectors
Alternator 2times because of this
Plug in back of Alternator Because of this
Head Gaskets
EGR Cooler
Please need some help guy's what do you think? Would be much appreciated Thanks Tom
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batts
Yes there not the originals but they but they still hold charge! When the light comes there not???
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batt
Its all Ford Products in my truck Alternator i replaced 2wc in the last month! I think its something in the plug in on the back of the alternator and i replaced it also! And that's right from Ford also so I'm just confused as all hell it might be in the harness that connects into the dash but i don't have a clue that's why I'm asking if anyone on here has had a similar incident?
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cables
OK cables are all clean! But i will definitely check the ground on the cab! Would you have any idea where that is located?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Corvallis, OR
There's one under the passenger side, right by the front cab mount. I can't remember if there are others.
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OK i will thanks for the help! What wrong with the Bold Font I figured you can see it better?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Thats funney^^ yes folks think your mad at them when capital letters in bold
just a computer thing no worries its all good BRO
So you followed the negative batterys cables to the spot where they ground at frame by power steering pump and the other by the A/C pump to the engine???
Also theres another ground strap by front passenger side seat under truck connecting to the Frame to Cab and I beleive 1 more going from drivers side battery to the fender right there really close
Have you tried to trouble shoot the I-sense wire to alternator?? this wire tells the Alternator to turn on and charge IIRC. I have a little info on it but its not letting me post it IDK
here are some links I saved maybe you can read them and might help diagnos this Issue the first one has some of the I circut info and other circute info that goes to the Little plug on alternator
ALTERNATOR CHARGING STUFF
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...9&d=1302918849
alternator stuff
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
Take a look at the attached diagram. There are two wires connected through the plug at the back of the alternator. The A wire (Orange w/ Light Blue stripe) should have 12V on it at all times. The I wire (Light Green w/ Red stripe) should have 1-3 volts with the engine off and 8-9 volts with the engine running. This is with the connector connected probing through the back of the plug.
If you don't have voltage on the I wire, the alternator will not charge.
If you don't have voltage on the I wire, the alternator will not charge.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Houston, TX
i would load test the batteries individually to see if they're both good. has to be 12v each.
also, hows ur harmonic balancer doing? if it is shaking too much, time to change tat. it can cause ur alternator to go out if ur harmonic balancer is too loose. either tighten it or get a new one. i tink the torque setting on tat one is about 240 lb ft of torque. i could be wrong. someone will correct me. lol.
check ur cables and wire harnesses. chafing or cuts could mean it's time to replace them.
another thing is also to have somebody plug in a scangauge 2 or auto enginuity to figure out the error code. if it's tat obvious wif a battery light like tat, it must have something stored in the memory. jus saying.
again, my 2 cents. lol. best of luck! hope u figure out wats wrong.
also, hows ur harmonic balancer doing? if it is shaking too much, time to change tat. it can cause ur alternator to go out if ur harmonic balancer is too loose. either tighten it or get a new one. i tink the torque setting on tat one is about 240 lb ft of torque. i could be wrong. someone will correct me. lol.
check ur cables and wire harnesses. chafing or cuts could mean it's time to replace them.
another thing is also to have somebody plug in a scangauge 2 or auto enginuity to figure out the error code. if it's tat obvious wif a battery light like tat, it must have something stored in the memory. jus saying.
again, my 2 cents. lol. best of luck! hope u figure out wats wrong.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Just playing the odds here, but I've seen a lot of these threads end up with "well, put new batteries in the truck and everything seem ok so far". Followed a few weeks later by a "truck has a long crank and runs like crap when cold" that turns out to be a FICM.
When I had similar problems, I replaced alternator(lasted about a week), took the O'Rileys rebuild to a local shop and they repaired it(lasted another week), took it back to the shop and they fixed it again(no charge). I had been all over that thing with a meter an it all seemed ok and all connection were spotless and tight. Batteries had been load tested three times. After the light started flickering again on the way home from work, I put new batteries in it and haven't had another problem. That was late last summer.
When I had similar problems, I replaced alternator(lasted about a week), took the O'Rileys rebuild to a local shop and they repaired it(lasted another week), took it back to the shop and they fixed it again(no charge). I had been all over that thing with a meter an it all seemed ok and all connection were spotless and tight. Batteries had been load tested three times. After the light started flickering again on the way home from work, I put new batteries in it and haven't had another problem. That was late last summer.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; Apr 15, 2012 at 07:38 AM. Reason: Add
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Thank You Guys All for your input i will check all my grounds and i'm Probably going to bite the bullet and put new Batteries in it too i will let you all know my results Thanks Again
Just playing the odds here, but I've seen a lot of these threads end up with "well, put new batteries in the truck and everything seem ok so far". Followed a few weeks later by a "truck has a long crank and runs like crap when cold" that turns out to be a FICM.
When I had similar problems, I replaced alternator(lasted about a week), took the O'Rileys rebuild to a local shop and they repaired it(lasted another week), took it back to the shop and they fixed it again(no charge). I had been all over that thing with a meter an it all seemed ok and all connection were spotless and tight. Batteries had been load tested three times. After the light started flickering again on the way home from work, I put new batteries in it and haven't had another problem. That was late last summer.
When I had similar problems, I replaced alternator(lasted about a week), took the O'Rileys rebuild to a local shop and they repaired it(lasted another week), took it back to the shop and they fixed it again(no charge). I had been all over that thing with a meter an it all seemed ok and all connection were spotless and tight. Batteries had been load tested three times. After the light started flickering again on the way home from work, I put new batteries in it and haven't had another problem. That was late last summer.
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