I just went through both "how-to" articles in the Tech Folder and they are kind of in contradiction of each other....

The PDF format tells us to remove the drain plugs from the block and to drain the heater core etc... but there is a less intrusive flush mentioned as well just below the PDF version.

I thought the less intrusive method was easiest for me to understand/accomplish but I guess the real question here is.... is one method better than the other? I really do not want to remove the starter to do this.

 

5 minutes to remove the starter, 3 bolts no wires. If you put the Fumoto valves in to replace the block plugs then its just reaching up there & open/close the valve for the rest of its life. Makes things much easier. The block hold alot of coolant you will be surprised.

 

I had a pic of the starter side just cant seem to find it at the moment

 

Okay...... took your advice and ordered the 2 Fumoto Valves as recommended. Do I have to remove the heater core stuff and pump air thru there or will it circulate well enough with the block being drained and flushed along with the radiator?

Also, I just need to use a rubber O-ring around the Fumoto valves? Have you done this personally on both the drivers side as well as passenger side? Any leaking?

 

If you're flushing with distilled water to put in the same type of coolant, you can not pull the block plugs and just use more water. But if you're chemically flushing it, then pulling the plugs will save you from using more water before and after the chemical flushes.

Make sure you know the costs and benefits associated with using the chemicals before you decide which type of flush you're doing.

 

Yes as Texas said, are you chemically flushing or just running water thru it? In either event, once you have straight water in the whole system & drain it out including the block both sides 3.5 gallons of STRAIGHT (not 50/50) antifeeze will get you where u want to be on your fill up.
Yes, I have both valves on with o-rings for 6 months now & not a drop. Dont forget the clear hose that attaches to the valves.

 

Its all pretty much here:

http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf

& here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-101-a.html

Mine took me a whole weekend but took my time with it. I did not remove the thermostat for the procedure, but did install a new one before the fresh fill. I also drove 2 hours on the Restore & 2 hours on the Restore Plus then 1 hour too cool before draining on each as you should not have it in your system for no more than 3 hours max. I back flushed with hot water straight from the hot water tank with an RV filter in between as the directions mentioned. That 2 days of work got me from a 30 degree delta to a 10 degree now. I also installed a coolant filter after the flush. I have been at a 10 degree delta ever sine now & know the flush does work. Good luck on your adventure.

 

I have used this one with no issues now:
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx

If you are switching to a different type of coolant I do believe chemical flushing is highly recommended.

 

I will be changing coolant types. The last mechanic who worked on my truck used regular prestone green antifreeze.... I will be putting in Caterpillar ELC coolant after I flush. I like the data I read about this coolant. I guess I will have to chemically flush the system before doing the changeover

 

I just did mine.

Some stuff I went through ...

I bought the fumoto plugs and then tried to remove the old block plugs but they wouldn't move ... not even with a breaker bar, and the 8mm hex was starting to strip the plug. I tried an impact gun and two quick pulses on the trigger did the trick.

I decided to remove the starter completely just because I was fearful of giving it a coolant bath from close quarters when I undid the block plug. Three 13mm bolts hold it in place. 2 screw in from the front, one from the back if you know what I mean. The cable came off with an 8mm on the small ...and a 12mm on the large I think it was. The large nut came off like a bitch and I realized the muppet that last but on my starter had cross threaded the larger nut on the copper post so I had to recut that. 10x1.5 die if I remember right.

I put the fumotos in with teflon tape on the threads, and an o-ring in place of the washer thing it came with. o-ring lightly oiled. I hand tightened them and then added the slightest of extra turn with a wrench.

I installed the tubing and left it in place so now it's permanent.
Reinstalled the starter.

Did my coolant flush and replacement.

2 days later I am finding the level in my degas is going down slowly and I am having to top it off with the distilled as I check it.

Bismic replied to a thread/question I asked about this and he said he has seen this before so I'll just stay on top of it. Hopefully in a week all the air will be out and I'll be right at a 50/50 mixture.

Hope that helps.