Electrical Issue I think
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
Electrical Issue I think
Last Friday had battery tested-The battery was bad got new one and truck started and ran great all day. Parked in driveway and then went to move later that evening and nothing not even a click. Checked all connections cleaned terminals. Tried the headlights they worked then turned key to start and the headlights went out and nothing again. Repeated the checking connections etc... and got back it truck turned the key to the point that it made the buzzing noise (had door open) so I knew there was power. While it was buzzing I turned headlights on and back to nothing. No buzzing, no lights no nothing. I replaced the starter solenoid on the fender well the next morning still nothing (same results as above) then yesterday I had the starter checked it checked satisfactory. What next? Noticed every time I reconnect the negative terminal I do not get that little bit of arching/sparking. I assume that has something to do with a difference in potential. Could the brand new batt be bad? Am I missing something?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
Yes, a "brand new" alternator [and anything else] can be bad right out of the box. Sometimes an internal short circuit in the alternator will pull the battery down. I suppose you could remove the battery ground cable [for protection], then disconnect the alternator, replace the ground terminal to the battery and see if it still arcs. If not, then the alternator is the cause.
On the other hand, you mentioned an electrical arc when reconnecting the battery cables. This does indicate that something is pulling current. Was the driver's door open, which would have the interior dome light on or was the radio on? One can remove the fuses [1 at a time and then replace] checking to see if the same arcing continues. If a fuse is removed and the arcing stops, then there is something on that particular circuit which needs to be checked.
On the other hand, you mentioned an electrical arc when reconnecting the battery cables. This does indicate that something is pulling current. Was the driver's door open, which would have the interior dome light on or was the radio on? One can remove the fuses [1 at a time and then replace] checking to see if the same arcing continues. If a fuse is removed and the arcing stops, then there is something on that particular circuit which needs to be checked.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Assuming the battery is good, this generally implies bad connections or bad cables someplace in the primary circuits, e.g. the battery cables or their connections, both to the battery and ground points (engine, sometimes also frame).
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
So far I have replaced Battery, Starter solenoid on fender well, both the neg and positive battery terminals, and I have had the starter checked out (starter checked out fine). I have cleaned all of the areas where the connections are made. Presently trying to remove the alternator to have checked out (suspect a short). Will truck turn over without alternator hooked up? Assuming truck turns over and attempts to start can I assume the alternator is bad and is the problem?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Terminals (cable ends) are designed for short-term use only, until proper replacement cables are put in place.
When the copper strands of the cable are exposed to the elements, they begin oxidizing (corroding) and that corrosion extends to inside the cable with the visible symptoms being the copper turning green & black and a white powder will sometimes form. Electrically, they develop reduced current-carrying capacity.
See:
http://www.tycothermal.com/assets/Am...rr_0909web.pdf
Copper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Replacement cables aren't at all expensive, and you get the bonus opportunity to clean their mating connections at the other ends (ground points on the engine and/or frame, sandpaper or wire brush usually work well).
The engine is able to turn over and start without an alternator installed or connected.
A bad diode inside the alternator can cause a perpetual, slow battery drain.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
Too catch everyone up, when I said that I replaced both the neg and positive cables I was wrong. I replaced the negative batt cable and I replaced the positive cable last year. (Thanks ctubutis I should have replaced last week when you said to) I assumed it was good. Last night while troubleshooting I just started to shake wires, cables etc... when shaking the positive batt cable the interior dome light came on and fluctuated brightness. Thus the positve cable may have looked good but was not. Next problem is that I hooked up a cable in parallel with the bad batt cable (I didnt have a real replacement on hand) and the truck finally turned over but it would not stop turning over. I pulled the key out and it continued to turn over. I had to remove the neg terminal from batt to stop it. Is the the solenoid switch that I purchased last week now stuck in the start position?
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
Too catch everyone up, when I said that I replaced both the neg and positive cables I was wrong. I replaced the negative batt cable and I replaced the positive cable last year. (Thanks ctubutis I should have replaced last week when you said to) I assumed it was good. Last night while troubleshooting I just started to shake wires, cables etc... when shaking the positive batt cable the interior dome light came on and fluctuated brightness. Thus the positve cable may have looked good but was not. Next problem is that I hooked up a cable in parallel with the bad batt cable (I didnt have a real replacement on hand) and the truck finally turned over but it would not stop turning over. I pulled the key out and it continued to turn over. I had to remove the neg terminal from batt to stop it. Is the the solenoid switch that I purchased last week now stuck in the start position?
Try to find an original motorcraft...I hope those are better. Rock Auto has them if you cannot find one locally
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Next problem is that I hooked up a cable in parallel with the bad batt cable (I didnt have a real replacement on hand) and the truck finally turned over but it would not stop turning over. I pulled the key out and it continued to turn over. I had to remove the neg terminal from batt to stop it. Is the the solenoid switch that I purchased last week now stuck in the start position?
When the solenoid refuses to shut off -the first thing to do is- remove the little red & blue wire.
That would show if the ignition switch was sticking.
The next thing to do is give the solenoid a whack with a hard object like a screwdriver handle... or the wrench you used to remove the negative battery terminal.
This will often jar the contacts free (and is a lot faster than unbolting the battery)
High resistance will cause a voltage drop, and a consequent increase in amperage the contacts need to carry.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
burnout01134
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
7
Mar 18, 2016 01:33 PM