Solenoid problem?
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Solenoid problem?
My boyfriend has a 1997 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4. He bought a new alternator believing that the one he had was bad. When he hooked the new one up, his battery died and stayed that way. So he thought maybe the battery had gone as well... bought a new one. Hooked the new alternator up with the new battery as well and the battery still wouldn't keep a charge. He took the alternator back because he was told it was defective... and was told that the one he traded in was in fact still good. So he hooked it back up. Still draining the battery.
We were told to check the wiring and see if there was any corrosion going from the battery to the starter and we were also told to check the Solenoid.
How do we test the Solenoid to see if it's good or not?
Is it true that if your alternator stops when you unhook the one side of the battery.. your alternator is bad?
We were told to check the wiring and see if there was any corrosion going from the battery to the starter and we were also told to check the Solenoid.
How do we test the Solenoid to see if it's good or not?
Is it true that if your alternator stops when you unhook the one side of the battery.. your alternator is bad?
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Purdue
if you get it started and and pull one of the battery cables off and it dies, its most likely your alternator if it keeps running then your alternators fine. Is the battery for sure draining or does the truck jsut act like it is because my 79 would click like the battery was dead but then I jsut wiggled some wires on the solenoid and it would eventually start, I changed the solenoid and it fixed it all......of course that was old tech I don't know if new solenoids act the same way
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Why not run this ride by your favorite autoparts store & have them do a in vehicle, no cost, electrical system check up, with their portable electrical system tester.
It'll PROPERLY & SAFELY load test the battery & alternator's output & check for excessive parasitic battery drain with the engine off.
So it'll likely be able to pinpoint the problem quickly & safely.
IMHO I wouldn't advise pulling a battery cable loose, with the engine running, as this could cause damaging electrical system voltage spikes, that things like the alternator's diodes, computers, enertainment electronics & other sensitive onboard electricals, sure won't like!!!!
The battery besides being a reserve source of electrical power, also acts sort of like a filter for the electrical system, to help smooth out electrical system spikes & thus helps prevent online damage to sensitive electricals & electronics.
It'll PROPERLY & SAFELY load test the battery & alternator's output & check for excessive parasitic battery drain with the engine off.
So it'll likely be able to pinpoint the problem quickly & safely.
IMHO I wouldn't advise pulling a battery cable loose, with the engine running, as this could cause damaging electrical system voltage spikes, that things like the alternator's diodes, computers, enertainment electronics & other sensitive onboard electricals, sure won't like!!!!
The battery besides being a reserve source of electrical power, also acts sort of like a filter for the electrical system, to help smooth out electrical system spikes & thus helps prevent online damage to sensitive electricals & electronics.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2004
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He needs to check to see if there's anything that is putting a load on the electrical system with the truck shut off. To do this, he'll need an ammeter (something that can do 20 amps should be fine) and a good wiring diagram of the ENTIRE truck (a Haynes manual isn't going to cut it). Disconnect the positive battery cable (with the engine off!) and put the meter in series with the battery and cable. Anything over half an amp or so is reason for concern. The engine computer and radio combined draw about three or four tenths of an amp for the memory in each respective device with the key in the off position. If there is more than half an amp, start pulling fuses from the main distribution block under the hood, then the ones under the dash, until the load drops to an acceptable level. Whichever fuse was pulled is the one to the culprit circuit.
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