I went to town yesterday to drop off my pistol purchase permit at the police station and when I went back to my truck I hit the key and it clicked once and everything went dead. Sounds like a dead battery. But the battery is a month old. Is it possible I have a bad connection on the post? Is there a solenoid somewhere that isn't working? It's a 1996 F-150 with a 5.8

 

The police officer at the station jumped it but it didn't respond well to being jumped. While it was hooked up it wouldn't even turn on the dome light in the cab.

 

I'd start by checking your cables. Perhaps the ground cable is loose or another is corroded and causing the issue. But it's also best to have your alternator checked to make sure it is charging correctly. Your local parts store will check it for free. Perhaps the last battery died because of the alternator. Lastly, have the new battery checked. It's not fun but even new battery's can be flawed and be dead even after such a short time. And yes, there's a solenoid for the starter...should be on the passenger side fender under the hood. When you're checking cables make sure to check all of it's connections and wires too.

 

My F-250 recently had a dead battery, found that the alternator had grounded internally and was pulling 10 amps with the key off.

On my F-350 a couple of years ago I had starting problem where the truck shut down on a start attempt like it opened a breaker.

On that truck I had problem with corroded cables, and worse, an extremely loose neutral cable-to-block connection, it actually shorted out my on-the-fender solenoid switch.

Look for over 13.8 VDC at battery terminals with engine running for an alternator check.

Pistol Purchase Permit? Is that Massachusetts? For a Constitutional Right? Bummer!

 

I'll start with solenoid. Alternator is fine. Last battery had a dead cell and leaked so I replaced with Napa legend.

And no, Michigan. I'm 20 and bought a used one which just requires the police station to run my background check like at the store. Pretty painless.

 

Don't go spending money on parts, just start by cleaning and checking your battery cables and see if it helps.. I'm betting it will.

 

If the lights don't come on, then it is connections/cables.

Solenoid only turns the starter. If the lights aren't on, then the starter is not the problem.

 

Agreed. Throwing parts at a problem is a good way to throw money down the toilet

 

Recently had a similar problem. I don't really drive the truck often so basically only started it when a road crew needed the spot or the township put abandoned stickers on the old gal. (parked it in front of their station for a week after that nonsense)

Anyway the starter had BEEN going, and the cables were ALL crappy. Well the road crew was back in town and low and behold, a short crank, then nothing. No lights. No anything. Called a neighbor, his wife to steer, and a tenant and we got the truck around back.

Head inside to order the new starter and the factory ground strap on rock auto. New bosch starter and the ground strap, $135 shipped with the discount code. Put the new starter in, still nothing with the key.

Went back out with the ground strap next day, finagled it on, and VROOM! Fired up like I have never seen or heard another 20+ year old vehicle in my short life. It's not easy to get the old one out. And I've had a truck I COULD NOT remove the old ground strap from. I was about your age at the time, and either didn't have the capacity or tool for the job.

Either way what I'm getting at is check your ground. If you can't wait for a mail order cable, rig one up to the block and leave the frame ground off for now. It will get you home. I understand the frame ground is mainly for trailer lights.

 

It's between the cables and the starter solenoid on the firewall. Both probably should be replaced. New solenoid is $25.

 

If your lights don't work it wouldn't be the solenoid. The power to go inside the cab is a direct link from the battery via the cables hooked together on one bolt on the fender mounted solenoid.

 

What does it entail to replace the connections to the battery?

 

I'm not sure what you're asking?

 

Sorry. to change the connections to the posts on the battery do you have to solder anything or do they clamp on somewhere?

 

No you don't have to solder anything. If you're going to use those bolt on replacement ends, they will work but are not recommended for long term use.

Why not just get replacement cables of the correct length complete with the correct ends, they aren't that expensive. Be sure to clean all connections and your battery posts and make sure everything tightens up properly.