Need help!
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
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Need help!
Im getting ready to start the duraspark conversion. I have ran into a problem with my carb selection. The carb that is supposed to be used with the conversion is the YF but it seems there is a bunch available. I am wanting to buy a new one from the auto parts store and came across this one, Buy United Carb Remanufactured Carburetor 7-7587 at Advance Auto Parts Is this carb correct? If it is what about the vent that is capped? This is also the one mentioned in the 12 page long thread about duraspark however this was only one persons carb that was shown. Out of all the threads i have read about the duraspark conversion, no one was hardly specific on what carb, only one person showed their part number and it is the carb I listed.
So here is my parts list. I need to know without a doubt if theses are right because once these are used there is no return,
1. New United Carb Buy United Carb Remanufactured Carburetor 7-7587 at Advance Auto Parts
2. Dizzy, Buy Cardone Select New Distributor 84-2669 at Advance Auto Parts
3. Ignition module, I remember reading about a blue plug on the module, is this one good? Buy BWD Ignition Control Module CBE7Z at Advance Auto Parts
If everything is right here I can go ahead and order this stuff then go looking for a wire harness.
So here is my parts list. I need to know without a doubt if theses are right because once these are used there is no return,
1. New United Carb Buy United Carb Remanufactured Carburetor 7-7587 at Advance Auto Parts
2. Dizzy, Buy Cardone Select New Distributor 84-2669 at Advance Auto Parts
3. Ignition module, I remember reading about a blue plug on the module, is this one good? Buy BWD Ignition Control Module CBE7Z at Advance Auto Parts
If everything is right here I can go ahead and order this stuff then go looking for a wire harness.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
YF's were only found on the venerable I-6, so I'm going to make an assumption...
The carb looks okay.
It has an electric choke.
Do you need one with a kickdown linkage if you have an automatic transmission?
The single vacuum advance electronic distributor with a three wire (orange, purple, black) plug is correct.
Blue grommet DuraSpark module is correct.
(some people say that -some- aftermarket modules do not have a functional cranking retard function)
Echlin and genuine Motorcraft brands do for sure.
The carb looks okay.
It has an electric choke.
Do you need one with a kickdown linkage if you have an automatic transmission?
The single vacuum advance electronic distributor with a three wire (orange, purple, black) plug is correct.
Blue grommet DuraSpark module is correct.
(some people say that -some- aftermarket modules do not have a functional cranking retard function)
Echlin and genuine Motorcraft brands do for sure.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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I knew i forgot something lol. This is a 1984 f250 4x4 with an inline6 4.9 with a 4 speed bull dog. Im the third owner and the VIN shows this truck was made in canada. Oh and after some research, it seem that this engine has an 1980 manifold on it. The egr tube screws in on the side. My other 84 the egr tube screws in on the bottom. So either the engine is an 1980 or earlyier. Or it could be just an different manifold?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
YF's were only found on the venerable I-6, so I'm going to make an assumption...
The carb looks okay.
It has an electric choke.
Do you need one with a kickdown linkage if you have an automatic transmission?
The single vacuum advance electronic distributor with a three wire (orange, purple, black) plug is correct.
Blue grommet DuraSpark module is correct.
(some people say that -some- aftermarket modules do not have a functional cranking retard function)
Echlin and genuine Motorcraft brands do for sure.
The carb looks okay.
It has an electric choke.
Do you need one with a kickdown linkage if you have an automatic transmission?
The single vacuum advance electronic distributor with a three wire (orange, purple, black) plug is correct.
Blue grommet DuraSpark module is correct.
(some people say that -some- aftermarket modules do not have a functional cranking retard function)
Echlin and genuine Motorcraft brands do for sure.
On the distributor i will have to check it after I order it.
Would this module work? It is not Motorcraft.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Nope on the auto tranny. That carb shows it is an yfa however it looks like it is not feedback. Other threads I have seen where someone said there is non feedback yfa's??
On the distributor i will have to check it after I order it.
Would this module work? It is not Motorcraft.
On the distributor i will have to check it after I order it.
Would this module work? It is not Motorcraft.
From all I can tell, everything you show will work just fine.
The ignition module shown just might not have the retard function.
This feature lessens the load on the starter motor, especially during hot starts.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
That's the correct carburetor.
The plug on that one port to the right of the fuel inlet where the fuel filter goes, that's a plug for the external bowl vent. If you're not hooking up your EVAP system (which I'm going to assume a Canadian truck has EVAP and a charcoal canister... not that it matters if it's going to NOT be hooked up) leave the plug on there. If you are hooking up the EVAP system, get a purge cv and the appropriate vacuum lines and fittings and hook it all up.
Also, go to the auto parts place and get a choke stove kit. This way you can plumb your thermostatic choke correctly and set it correctly so the carburetor works as it should be.
The "electric choke" that comes on these carburetors is an electric-assist, and only gets 7 volts and works only above 60 degrees.
If you need help setting up your choke, just let us know.
The plug on that one port to the right of the fuel inlet where the fuel filter goes, that's a plug for the external bowl vent. If you're not hooking up your EVAP system (which I'm going to assume a Canadian truck has EVAP and a charcoal canister... not that it matters if it's going to NOT be hooked up) leave the plug on there. If you are hooking up the EVAP system, get a purge cv and the appropriate vacuum lines and fittings and hook it all up.
Also, go to the auto parts place and get a choke stove kit. This way you can plumb your thermostatic choke correctly and set it correctly so the carburetor works as it should be.
The "electric choke" that comes on these carburetors is an electric-assist, and only gets 7 volts and works only above 60 degrees.
If you need help setting up your choke, just let us know.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
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That's the correct carburetor.
The plug on that one port to the right of the fuel inlet where the fuel filter goes, that's a plug for the external bowl vent. If you're not hooking up your EVAP system (which I'm going to assume a Canadian truck has EVAP and a charcoal canister... not that it matters if it's going to NOT be hooked up) leave the plug on there. If you are hooking up the EVAP system, get a purge cv and the appropriate vacuum lines and fittings and hook it all up.
Also, go to the auto parts place and get a choke stove kit. This way you can plumb your thermostatic choke correctly and set it correctly so the carburetor works as it should be.
The "electric choke" that comes on these carburetors is an electric-assist, and only gets 7 volts and works only above 60 degrees.
If you need help setting up your choke, just let us know.
The plug on that one port to the right of the fuel inlet where the fuel filter goes, that's a plug for the external bowl vent. If you're not hooking up your EVAP system (which I'm going to assume a Canadian truck has EVAP and a charcoal canister... not that it matters if it's going to NOT be hooked up) leave the plug on there. If you are hooking up the EVAP system, get a purge cv and the appropriate vacuum lines and fittings and hook it all up.
Also, go to the auto parts place and get a choke stove kit. This way you can plumb your thermostatic choke correctly and set it correctly so the carburetor works as it should be.
The "electric choke" that comes on these carburetors is an electric-assist, and only gets 7 volts and works only above 60 degrees.
If you need help setting up your choke, just let us know.
Today I looked at an harness for an 1980 5.0 ford truck. The harness seemed decent but it seems that only TWO wires was going to the distributor??? Tomorrow i will try and go and look for more harnesses.
I may bump this thread I got bookmarked from 2010 because it talks specifically about the differences in the harnesses. Thanks again, i appreciate all the help!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
Well the canister is missing but I do plan on hooking up an pcv an run it to the intake manifold. That is an first to me about choke stove kit, i can tell you I will do that because If I go buy a new carb, I sure want that choke operating normally. I will have to do a little research on that and I will let yall know if I need help.
Today I looked at an harness for an 1980 5.0 ford truck. The harness seemed decent but it seems that only TWO wires was going to the distributor??? Tomorrow i will try and go and look for more harnesses.
I may bump this thread I got bookmarked from 2010 because it talks specifically about the differences in the harnesses. Thanks again, i appreciate all the help!
Today I looked at an harness for an 1980 5.0 ford truck. The harness seemed decent but it seems that only TWO wires was going to the distributor??? Tomorrow i will try and go and look for more harnesses.
I may bump this thread I got bookmarked from 2010 because it talks specifically about the differences in the harnesses. Thanks again, i appreciate all the help!
The reason being the electric assist won't work without the choke being hooked up, it takes a LONG time for the spring to heat up with 7.5 volts of electricity going to it enough such that the fast idle cam can start coming down in steps. With the choke stove set up though, your choke's bimetallic spring will heat up quick and high enough that the spring will unwind with a little more force and work right.
You MIGHT be able to wire a full 12 volts to the electric assist to make it behave like a full electric choke, but that's a gamble. You can always try it and see.
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