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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Intake Manifold Gasket replacement

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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Intake Manifold Gasket replacement

My brother is bringing over his 1984 f250 with a 5.0L for me to replace the intake manifold gasket. Does anybody have some helpful tips/instructions to make the job go smoothly? Thanks all.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Make sure everything is clean, clean, clean.
I use a spray on Copper adhesive on the manifold / head gaskets. Helps keep them in place and seals them great. I do also put a small bead of RTV around the cooling passage opening on the gaskets.
On the lifter valey end seals...make sure you put a good bead of RTV in the corners where those gasgets meet the head gaskets...right in those 4 corners. Some don't use the end gasket but use a big bead of RTV instead. I personally have always had good luck with the rubber ones that come with the set
Make sure all you bolts are cleaned, especially the threads. If you have a tap, run it down the hols in the heads to clean them out.
I use thread sealer on the bolts.
Put it down nice and square....use the recommended torque sequence and torque in steps....3 different steps.
If you haven't removed all the stuff off the old one, make sure you mark everything where it all goes. Pretty common for people to get on here asking where everything goes back....especially all the vacuum lines. Take lots pictures. I use masking tape and write down where everythign goes. You can even put a peice on the part you are removing and a peice on where it came from and lable them both "1". Then the next one "2". That way you know all the 1's go to the 1's, 2's to the 2's, etc....like geranimals.

above all...get a simple manual like a haynes or Chilton. It will give you the torque sequence and specs as well as step by step instructions.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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I don't remember if this would apply to a Windsor engine or not, but what I did for my 400....

I made studs out of 4 bolts and screwed 'em a few turns into the four center bolt holes in the heads, this was to make aligning the manifold lots easier upon installation.

If you're removing & replacing a cast-iron stock manifold, that thing weights close to 80 pounds. An engine crane to help would be ideal....
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I don't remember if this would apply to a Windsor engine or not, but what I did for my 400....

I made studs out of 4 bolts and screwed 'em a few turns into the four center bolt holes in the heads, this was to make aligning the manifold lots easier upon installation.

If you're removing & replacing a cast-iron stock manifold, that thing weights close to 80 pounds. An engine crane to help would be ideal....
Excellent suggestion!! the 429/460 actually uses studs on the corners...probably for this very reason. When I replaced mine with the aluminum manifold...I left those in to help align things.

Oh yeah...and don't do what I did. As I was lowing it down, I had my right foot on the steer in column for balance. As I put more weight on it, I popped it out of gear. Next thing I knew, I looked down and saw the drive way going by .

Never thought I'd need the eBrake on to work on the manifold...but I did
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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I agree with Kevin fully and that's an excellent idea, Chris! (Although the engine hoist is for pansies.)
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Yaga1973
(Although the engine hoist is for pansies.)





 
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