Alright, first time towing with my truck, 05 F250 CCLB stock, did complete fluid and filters change, it had a WIX one piece, deal, the guy I bought it from said he used them for a few years with no problems,so I bought a new Ford cap and all new Ford or Racor filters, did the blue spring and switched to Rotella full synthetic 5-40, and changed all fluids in the truck to synthetic, fired right up cold, barely cranked it, no smoke, warmed up for 10 minutes, hooked the trailer on, pulled the trailer abt. 100 ft. truck smoked blue smoke for abt. 30 seconds at idle, but went away,went about 40 miles, pulling abt. 9-10,000 lbs., this thing could pull my old 7.3 clear accross NY state, what a difference in power and driveability. OK so 40 miles into it, it throws the wrench, on a flat no load really, cruising, truck has ****ty power, drive a little more, pull over, let it cool abt. 1/2 hour while in a store, fire it back up, no wrench runs awesome on another 60 mile run back home. The only thing I notice while cruising abt. 20 mph with my foot just giving it enough to keep it going, it seems to have a little surge, like I'm pushing the pedal ever so slightly and backing off, but my foot is not moving, no smoke, hammer it no surge, then goes away, no more surge, and like I said, ran fine all the way back, starts fine hot or cold, SG shows no codes, I stoipped by an Advanced Auto too thought abt. it later should have asked them to pull a code, maybe something stored or pending? What do I do, nothing?!? Or any ideas? Sorry for the long rant, but maybe it will help one of you guys notice something off, maybe it's nothing, air in the tranny, or HPOP, I dunno?

 

If you get a wrench light, you have a code - just that many code readers can not read all the codes (especially some of Ford's newer codes).

It is possible that it is excessive delta between oil and coolant temps. It puts it into a "limp" mode (so will excessive boost, high individual oil or coolant temps).

Do you have access to a scangaugeII?

 

My deltas run 5-8 unloaded. Loaded I was seeing 5-12 . I did see a 16 delta on a long steep climb when loaded but that was abt. 20 miles before the wrench light, and when the light came on I was unloaded and deltas were 10 or under. I was running the SG2 no codes came up. Why would the wench go away after a cool down, and not come back if I was loaded again by then and put another 60 miles on?

 

SGII is not a good code reader.

What were your actual oil and coolant temps?

Do you know what boost you had?

The wrench light will go out when the excessive parameter returns to an acceptable level. You will still have a stored code. Maybe autozone's code reader can help. If not, then I would just bite the bullet and have the dealership read the codes.

 

My coolant was running 195-210 depending on load etc. delta was 5--12, 1 time maxed 16-18 delta on a long hard pull but cooled right down after cresting the hill, and like I said abt. 20 miles before the wrench light showed. I'd buy an AE before going to the dealer we have in his area.

 

Your surge isnt from ECT vs EOT Deltas they dont seem bad

Did the BOOST PSI spike during surge

at KOEO TAKE BARO,MAP,And EBP need to be within 0.5psi

Then post numbers for EBP and MAP at WOT anything over say 45PSI or even 50PSI will be a BUST

 

Mark: Have you ever seen a list of the new "wrench light" codes? It would be nice to have them and know what triggers them. I wonder if the 6.4 or 6.7 "bibles" might have them?

 

Benny I didn't notice, but I barely had my foot to the pedal, so there should be barely any boost at that point ? I can do this, but I'm tinkering with the idea of ordering an AE in the next day or so, how much easier would these tests be with the AE and I figure I could pull the codes. If it is over 45 or 50 psi what does that mean?

 

AE will save your life working/diagnose the 6.0s

It will basically tell you everything youll need to know

 

If your over 28 psi boost on a stock 6.0 your in deep do-do. 45 or 50 your gaskets should be dust.

 

Is my dash gauge reliable to see that? You mean head gaskets? What would make it overboost? I suppose I need to do this test on the road if I have to do one at idle and another at WOT. What should I have at idle, and I guess WOT, under 28?

 

Tyler have you used one? I see a Snap On MT2500 for sale in CT. covers up to 2006, would you know how they compare? I did a little research, they supposedly do buzz tests, etc. Will both of them reset codes, and shut dash lights, eg. code after EGR delete? I read the AE tells codes but won't tell you what they are, and the MT2500 tells you what they are and gives possible reasons.

 

True 45-50psi Boost he would be TOAST I didnt say Boost though

But I said 45-50psi for MAP or EBP these 2 are a Total of Ambeint Air Pressure and Boost pressure in the Intake Manafold and Exhaust Manafolds

So an Average here 13psi Ambeint pressure + 30 PSI MAX Boost equalls 43PSI
MAP and EBP are a Grand Total of all pressure

Boost is MAP pressure less Ambeint Pressure

With me Yet?????


These numbers will show a Plugged exhaust (Im not saying thats your Problem though) or bad Sensor

MAP and EBP sensors are what the PCM uses to controll the VGT on the turbo what in turn could cause a Surge


Louie Im not shure on the snap on scanner but I beleive with the AE with Ford Enhanced Bundle is pretty good you can controll things to do Ford Specific testing plus it will pull all Generic codes and Manufacture Codes cylinder balance

 

Yes if you have a Stock BOOST gauge they were good ones not like the other gauges that are Dummyed down

 

30 psi boost on a stock 6.0 is still high and dangerous. JMOP.