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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #16  
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Brake pressure switch! The part ford should've replaced during the recall, but didn't. This was the reason for the recall! Did you have the jumper harness recall done?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 12:23 PM
  #17  
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I just bought the truck so I do not know if the recall was done... is there a way to tell?

Also I typed my vin into the ford recall page and it said there are no recalls.... any more detail on that recall?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #18  
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double ott ex
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I just bought the truck so I do not know if the recall was done... is there a way to tell?

Also I typed my vin into the ford recall page and it said there are no recalls.... any more detail on that recall?
either your ex had the recall done or it was not part of that particular recall. just because one ex gets recalled for something does not mean all ex's that year were recalled in all cases. when I bought my ex there were 2 pending recalls. neither of them had anything to do with the brake pressure switch.

I had to replace the micro switch that goes into the master cylinder and the recall wiring. Cruise worked to a couple of months then went out again. This time I replaced the cruise control module that hooks to the throttle body. Its all good now. By the way check your salvage yards for that module because it expensive. I got mine for $35 bucks at a salvage yard. Good luck, John
some more details about your recall wire harness might shed some light on whether other ex's have had the recall done or not.

DOE
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #19  
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Karlsgems
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Originally Posted by pnwexcursion
Bit of an amature here, so please be kind... wondering if anyone can suggest what might be the problem. I did the self test (off and cycle key), and the single flash of the speed control indicator flashes once signaling it is going into the self test mode. No 5 flashes, so take that to mean the servo is ok. true? The first button I push is the "on" button.... no flash.... This is leading me to believe the in steering wheel switch is bad. Any thoughts?

Would other bad parts cause cruise self test not to work when getting to the on button?

I am not able to turn cruise "on" while driving. The lights in the steering wheel switch are on indicating there is power and the radio/fan control on the right works. I am told both sides (on excursion limited) in the steering wheel is one part. That part is $500 at the dealer, so want to be sure I am accurately diagnosing it.

Any thoughts?
I had to replace my servo and it was flipping expensive. Hope your steering wheel switch fixes it. My servo ran $800 installed at the dealer. Sorry I can't verify the flashes and stuff but maybe my comment will bump this up a bit and Tom (crazy001) or someone can chime in.

Karl
 

Last edited by Karlsgems; Feb 20, 2013 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Forgot a word...
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Karlsgems
I had to replace my servo and it was flipping expensive. Hope your steering wheel switch fixes it. My servo ran $800 installed at the dealer. Sorry I can't verify the flashes and stuff but maybe my comment will bump this up a bit and Tom (crazy001) or someone can chime in.

Karl
Thanks for the help... I disconnected the break switch used a toothbrush and some tequila to clean both sides and the self test started working. It now gives me two flashes... So I am going to replace the break switch for 50bucks and cross my fingers. Wiring harness does not look touched, so really hope it is not that. The steering wheel switch was 500, so I really didn't want to get into that sucker either.... Will report back. Cheers!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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Still not working, help??

OK folks, so I bought the break switch and replaced that this morning. I ran the self diagnostic test and now can tell that it is giving me the three flashes that indicates a "Deactivator switch is open or circuit is defective". So not sure what that means... so I will keep looking...
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pnwexcursion
OK folks, so I bought the break switch and replaced that this morning. I ran the self diagnostic test and now can tell that it is giving me the three flashes that indicates a "Deactivator switch is open or circuit is defective". So not sure what that means... so I will keep looking...
If I'm reading this right you replaced the pressure sensor that goes on the master cylinder, right? Was brake fluid present in the connector when you did? This code indicates that either this sensor or the wiring is shorted. To verify, take a multimeter and test resistance across the terminals of the sensor and the harness installed in the recall. If there is low resistance at the sensor you can rule that out, and if there is also low resistance at the harness when plugged into the sensor then the fuses haven't blown.

So if there's electrical continuity across the harness and sensor then you have a problem with your wiring from there to your speed control servo.

Originally Posted by Karlsgems
I had to replace my servo and it was flipping expensive. Hope your steering wheel switch fixes it. My servo ran $800 installed at the dealer.
Holy CRAP! Yours is a different part number than what's called for on my '00, but a brand-new one can be had for $300-450 depending on where you get it. This is one of the few parts that I'd be willing to source from a junk yard because of how easy it is to change and how it can't leave me stranded!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #23  
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Thanks for the suggestions, just went a bought a multimeter... blazing new trails here.

Yes, I replaced the screw in switch to the master cylinder.

Since the diagnostic test is working, does that mean the speed control servo is working?

If it is the wiring... that sounds like quite a project... how hard is it to trace and diagnose wiring?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
Here are the instructions:

Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty

WARNING: THIS TEST IS A KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ONLY THAT IS CONDUCTED IN PARK ONLY WITH EMERGENCY BRAKE FULLY ENGAGED.

Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Diagnosis By Symptom

SO I did the test on my 02. Got a blink after every button push, after the last button push (set/accel) I got an immediate 3 flashes. Does the first indicate that the static butotn test was good, then the second two indicate the "two flashes" fault? - 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
My switch is juicy, I assume I have a bad switch.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #25  
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The switch covered in brake fluid seems to be the culprit the majority of the time. They're a quick easy fix.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 02:02 PM
  #26  
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Finding Ford parts is a pain. SW-6350 seems to be the kit to repair the faulty ones that were recalled, but it lists just about every rig but the Excursion. The Motorcraft switch I can find is three times the $ for that Ex. I assume that the SW-6350 is the part, I just don't need the harness it comes with, which is why every application list I find says it is not the right one?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:03 PM
  #27  
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Hi all, bringing this back from the dead for a bit. So my 2000 Ex V10 CC is not working. I ran the test and got two light flashes after all the switch lights flashed fine. I also noticed that the brake resevoir is low and the cables under it are grimey. From what I understand the two flashes means BPP or CPP switches are defective? is the brake pressure switch on of those?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:12 PM
  #28  
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Hello Icentropy, Here is a current CC thread that is still on going here---->>>> 01 X No Cruise Control.

The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Aaron_Jones
Hello Icentropy, Here is a current CC thread that is still on going here---->>>> 01 X No Cruise Control.

The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
Thanks Aaron, well i read that thread checked power to the pressure switch and had none. I bypassed the recall harness and had power. so plugged it straight in and re-ran the test and had the same two flash result. I tested the pressure switch and didn't see any difference between when my wife depressed the pedal or not so I think i may have two problems. a bad recall wireing harness and a bad pressure switch. would a bad pressure switch throw a 2 flash result on that test? Does anyone have the PN for the recall wireing harness and the pressure switch available?

the ebay ad says this isn't compatible with my truck but it sure looks the same. Is this the pressure switch and recall harness? My recall harness looks completely different with two external looking fuse holders, but i'm thinking maybe I got one of the older styles of recall fixes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142016816143
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:50 PM
  #30  
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So when I went and got a new pressure switch I got the recall harness with it for less than $20 at the auto part store. You can check the pressure switch my checking for continuity on the switch.

My problem was that I did not get power to the switch as well and followed the wires from the switch back to the harness and found a cut wire. looking at the schematic power comes from fuse 34 which is a 10amp fuse. Also fuse 27 goes to the cc servo:

as I look a little closer to the schematic I see the Pressure Switch has three connection points. The common which is the light blue/black wire should have 12v on it coming from fuse 34. check between the light blue/black wire and the black/yellow wire on the pressure switch with your continuity tester while someone is pushing the brake pedal in and out and see what you get.

Cruise Control Circuit

Originally Posted by mecdac



Cruise Control 02 Gasoline
 
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