Excursion No Cruise Control!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 315
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From: Pacific Northwest
I just bought the truck so I do not know if the recall was done... is there a way to tell?
Also I typed my vin into the ford recall page and it said there are no recalls.... any more detail on that recall?
Also I typed my vin into the ford recall page and it said there are no recalls.... any more detail on that recall?
I had to replace the micro switch that goes into the master cylinder and the recall wiring. Cruise worked to a couple of months then went out again. This time I replaced the cruise control module that hooks to the throttle body. Its all good now. By the way check your salvage yards for that module because it expensive. I got mine for $35 bucks at a salvage yard. Good luck, John
DOE
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 627
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From: Orange County, CA
Bit of an amature here, so please be kind... wondering if anyone can suggest what might be the problem. I did the self test (off and cycle key), and the single flash of the speed control indicator flashes once signaling it is going into the self test mode. No 5 flashes, so take that to mean the servo is ok. true? The first button I push is the "on" button.... no flash.... This is leading me to believe the in steering wheel switch is bad. Any thoughts?
Would other bad parts cause cruise self test not to work when getting to the on button?
I am not able to turn cruise "on" while driving. The lights in the steering wheel switch are on indicating there is power and the radio/fan control on the right works. I am told both sides (on excursion limited) in the steering wheel is one part. That part is $500 at the dealer, so want to be sure I am accurately diagnosing it.
Any thoughts?
Would other bad parts cause cruise self test not to work when getting to the on button?
I am not able to turn cruise "on" while driving. The lights in the steering wheel switch are on indicating there is power and the radio/fan control on the right works. I am told both sides (on excursion limited) in the steering wheel is one part. That part is $500 at the dealer, so want to be sure I am accurately diagnosing it.
Any thoughts?
Karl
Last edited by Karlsgems; Feb 20, 2013 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Forgot a word...
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
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I had to replace my servo and it was flipping expensive. Hope your steering wheel switch fixes it. My servo ran $800 installed at the dealer. Sorry I can't verify the flashes and stuff but maybe my comment will bump this up a bit and Tom (crazy001) or someone can chime in.
Karl
Karl
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Still not working, help??
OK folks, so I bought the break switch and replaced that this morning. I ran the self diagnostic test and now can tell that it is giving me the three flashes that indicates a "Deactivator switch is open or circuit is defective". So not sure what that means... so I will keep looking...
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
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From: Isanti, MN
OK folks, so I bought the break switch and replaced that this morning. I ran the self diagnostic test and now can tell that it is giving me the three flashes that indicates a "Deactivator switch is open or circuit is defective". So not sure what that means... so I will keep looking...
So if there's electrical continuity across the harness and sensor then you have a problem with your wiring from there to your speed control servo.
Originally Posted by Karlsgems
I had to replace my servo and it was flipping expensive. Hope your steering wheel switch fixes it. My servo ran $800 installed at the dealer.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
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Thanks for the suggestions, just went a bought a multimeter... blazing new trails here.
Yes, I replaced the screw in switch to the master cylinder.
Since the diagnostic test is working, does that mean the speed control servo is working?
If it is the wiring... that sounds like quite a project... how hard is it to trace and diagnose wiring?
Yes, I replaced the screw in switch to the master cylinder.
Since the diagnostic test is working, does that mean the speed control servo is working?
If it is the wiring... that sounds like quite a project... how hard is it to trace and diagnose wiring?
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Jun 2011
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Here are the instructions:
Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty
WARNING: THIS TEST IS A KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ONLY THAT IS CONDUCTED IN PARK ONLY WITH EMERGENCY BRAKE FULLY ENGAGED.
Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Diagnosis By Symptom
Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty
WARNING: THIS TEST IS A KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ONLY THAT IS CONDUCTED IN PARK ONLY WITH EMERGENCY BRAKE FULLY ENGAGED.
Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Diagnosis By Symptom
My switch is juicy, I assume I have a bad switch.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
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Finding Ford parts is a pain. SW-6350 seems to be the kit to repair the faulty ones that were recalled, but it lists just about every rig but the Excursion. The Motorcraft switch I can find is three times the $ for that Ex. I assume that the SW-6350 is the part, I just don't need the harness it comes with, which is why every application list I find says it is not the right one?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Havillah, WA
Hi all, bringing this back from the dead for a bit. So my 2000 Ex V10 CC is not working. I ran the test and got two light flashes after all the switch lights flashed fine. I also noticed that the brake resevoir is low and the cables under it are grimey. From what I understand the two flashes means BPP or CPP switches are defective? is the brake pressure switch on of those?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 230
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
Hello Icentropy, Here is a current CC thread that is still on going here---->>>> 01 X No Cruise Control.
The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Havillah, WA
Hello Icentropy, Here is a current CC thread that is still on going here---->>>> 01 X No Cruise Control.
The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
The pressure switch is mounted on the brake reservoir or Brake Master Cylinder. It signals when the brake pedal is pushed.
the ebay ad says this isn't compatible with my truck but it sure looks the same. Is this the pressure switch and recall harness? My recall harness looks completely different with two external looking fuse holders, but i'm thinking maybe I got one of the older styles of recall fixes?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142016816143
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 230
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
So when I went and got a new pressure switch I got the recall harness with it for less than $20 at the auto part store. You can check the pressure switch my checking for continuity on the switch.
My problem was that I did not get power to the switch as well and followed the wires from the switch back to the harness and found a cut wire. looking at the schematic power comes from fuse 34 which is a 10amp fuse. Also fuse 27 goes to the cc servo:
as I look a little closer to the schematic I see the Pressure Switch has three connection points. The common which is the light blue/black wire should have 12v on it coming from fuse 34. check between the light blue/black wire and the black/yellow wire on the pressure switch with your continuity tester while someone is pushing the brake pedal in and out and see what you get.
Cruise Control Circuit
My problem was that I did not get power to the switch as well and followed the wires from the switch back to the harness and found a cut wire. looking at the schematic power comes from fuse 34 which is a 10amp fuse. Also fuse 27 goes to the cc servo:
as I look a little closer to the schematic I see the Pressure Switch has three connection points. The common which is the light blue/black wire should have 12v on it coming from fuse 34. check between the light blue/black wire and the black/yellow wire on the pressure switch with your continuity tester while someone is pushing the brake pedal in and out and see what you get.
Cruise Control Circuit
