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Brake Drag problem

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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #1  
LIGOOMBA's Avatar
LIGOOMBA
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From: Matthews NC
Brake Drag problem

My truck(1992 F350 7.3 CREW CAB DUALLY) seems to have a left rear brake drag problem,I feel a slight drag /vibration coming from the left rear. I smell brakes,when I come off the highway.new shoes,new wheel cylinders.I adjusted them twice but still the same problem.Also when I am go in reverse.I get a hard pedal but it barely stops no matter how hard I push.Anyone have this problem.I also replaced the RABS module,and ABS sensor.The (ABS) light will stay on for a minute or so after I start the truck but then goes away.If I go foward its stops good? Any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 05:04 AM
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hookedondiesel
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From: Rockland Ontario
Could be weak return spring's.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 05:50 AM
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rolape2
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From: Portage Des Sioux, Mo
It could be rubber line going to rear axle, They can colapse internally, but that should affect both brakes. Possibly a frozen Emergency brake cable.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 08:21 AM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by rolape2
It could be rubber line going to rear axle, They can colapse internally, but that should affect both brakes. Possibly a frozen Emergency brake cable.
Emergency brake cable seems OK.I mean it engages and disengeges.Maybe the E brake cable is binding inside and hangin that side open.This happened right after I did the brake job. I am baffled ? I am gonna replace the return springs.It was 20.00 for the set and the cable.I figured the truck is a 1992 and maybe they are starting to give.The brakes bleed fine and the truck stops fine but after a bit I get that brake smell just from that left rear.Never thought about the hose.I don't want to open the system up again for no reason.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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A new hardware kit is always a good investment.
Are you confident that the primary and secondary shoes are on the right way round?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:52 AM
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From: Western Mass
Did you turn the drums? Could be a warped drum as well. Check the clearance on the shoes and turn it a few times to see if it sticks in only one spot. I second the new hardware kit. Springs can lose their strength over time and when heated up. Then when you stretch them extra to replace the shoes that could be the end of their useful life.

The reverse part says something isn't right. I'm going to 2nd Lazy K's thought on checking the shoes.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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From: Portage Des Sioux, Mo
1 thing I have seen is the side of the shoe wearing a goove in the backing plate. When the new shoe would drop into it it would cause it to bind. I would assume you would have noticed that when rebuilding though.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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Well I figured it out !!! I took the drums off and Cracked shoes !! Primary and secondary.The secondary had about 2-3 inches missing.The primary had a few chunks.After looking at the drums I need new ones !!! 100.00 for drums and 45.00 for shoes.I will have the drums by Monday !! Of course I take the new shoes home only to pull them out of the box and find that one is cracked !!! That was the brake smell.There were pieces wedged against the drum causing the smell.The E-Brake does not bind.I applied it twice and it applied and released both times with the spring collapsing and expanding.I replaced the shoes about two years ago.I am still baffled.I did have the drums cut and remember the guy telling me they were close to the max.Oh well hopefull this will solve my problem.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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'94IDITurbo7.3
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you got 2 years out of yours. i am getting about 3,000 miles out of my current set. just replaced them last spring. last fall when i was trying to adjust the brakes the pass rear shoes were almost to the rivets with a TON of brake dust. i now have some squeaking from the rear when breaking.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by '94IDITurbo7.3
you got 2 years out of yours. i am getting about 3,000 miles out of my current set. just replaced them last spring. last fall when i was trying to adjust the brakes the pass rear shoes were almost to the rivets with a TON of brake dust. i now have some squeaking from the rear when breaking.
Two years,yes but I don't drive it alot.I only use it on the weekends and the truck sat for about 3 months while the IP/injectors were replaced.I am hoping it was just a fluke that the shoes were bad and started this mess.The wheel cyl are new and seem to be working E-Brake cable does not seem to bind.I got my fingers crossed.I updated to heavy duty brakes for another 50.00 dollars.I am gonna pull out the manual as well just to make sure everything is how it should be !!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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make sure the E-brake cable releases completely.
the plastic coating on the cable likes to hang the cable up a bit, which will make the brake drag.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by tjc transport
make sure the E-brake cable releases completely.
the plastic coating on the cable likes to hang the cable up a bit, which will make the brake drag.
I checked it last night.The coating seems to still be on the cable.I released and engage it witht he drums off.It seemed to work and not stick.I am hoping it was the drum being thin and possibly out of round.I had the brakes bleed by a local repair shop.The guy said he adjusted them as well.Thats when the problem started.I am thinking he overtightened the left side and that caused the drum to hang/overheat and possibly warp the thin drum which caused a chain reaction. .After inspecting the drums,they had about 1/8 meat left.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Lazy K
A new hardware kit is always a good investment.
Are you confident that the primary and secondary shoes are on the right way round?
Yes I checked,I took out the manual as well.
 
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