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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Cold Starting... Injector sticking?

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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:39 PM
  #31  
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It will run hotter, but you will have a lot more pedal to work with as your power will go up quite a bit. IC will drop temps about 150-200*, depending on which one you use.

Example, mine towing my trailer, 16k loaded, 75mph on level ground its at 900-950 in od with the 3.55's, only 2000rpms. If its windy, I'll slow down some and just run it in drive, its easier on the trans and exhaust temps. I along with others have ran at 1200* for quite a while with no ill affects. On hilly roads you learn to drive by the pyro and not the speedo. All in all I'd NEVER go back to stock ones.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
It will run hotter, but you will have a lot more pedal to work with as your power will go up quite a bit. IC will drop temps about 150-200*, depending on which one you use.

Example, mine towing my trailer, 16k loaded, 75mph on level ground its at 900-950 in od with the 3.55's, only 2000rpms. If its windy, I'll slow down some and just run it in drive, its easier on the trans and exhaust temps. I along with others have ran at 1200* for quite a while with no ill affects. On hilly roads you learn to drive by the pyro and not the speedo. All in all I'd NEVER go back to stock ones.
Well I noticed you had a 6.0 cooler and that is what is sitting in the garage right now to go on mine. I take it you needed your chip reburnt with stage 1's correct? My trailer loaded is only around 12k but the roads around here are not flat by any means. I run anywhere from 500-800 doing 60-65 on the DP pyro unloaded which really does bug me because thats in the 800-1100 range on the header not even being conservative. Throw the trailer back there things will change quite a bit, and I70 is a 4th gear pull flat out with 4:10's and that trailer on many different spots. I know that is not possible all the times with high temps.

I do find myself driving by the pyro more often than not and more so trying to see how low I can get it cruising....



I really want to try it with a stock tune and the trailer and then see what the towing tune does to temps with stock injectors for base line knowledge. I guess I have a hard time understanding the entir EGT ordeal since my truck can hit 900 at the DP with nothing behind it just cruising in the mountains driving very modestly. I have seen countless guys pulling big loads in the mountains with OBS trucks that appear stock and always wished I knew what temps they were running. I'd find it hard for Ford to build a truck that could melt down towing in the mountains in stock form, but a bigger exhaust and intake, makes me think that it would even run cooler on a stock tune with stock injectors and not having to worry about temps. Sure makes me think of how many guys are melting motors down and damaging them keeping it too the floor over eisenhower and vail.



Thanks again for all the help I do appreciate you all letting me talk your ear off and hearing opinions!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #33  
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I actually bought my chip and injectors at the same time, both through Jim, so it was burned for stage ones. But yeah, you'd need to do that too.

Be nice to see you get a pyro in the manifold, then you can see what is for sure going on with the temps now. Make sure you don't have any exhaust leaks (manifold, upipe) or boost leaks as they can cause high temps too. 900 at the dp seems really high, even in the mountains, especially not loaded.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Well I know we are ok on the up pipes since we took a close look when the tranny was out. Noticed very little to no soot on them. Mechanic said they looked just fine as well.

I might look into a boost leak since I do not have a boost gauge on there. Need to get both new gauges on there before i even mess with the other mods. Have a better idea of what sort of true temps are happening.

Where do typical boost leaks happen? At the boots?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #35  
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Ya, check all rubber boots and the map line can deteriorate and crack or get plugged also. If you have the stock orange intake boot on the turbo inspect it carefully too. Lots of guys on here have had torn/damaged ones, which can allow dust/dirt into the turbo. Some get weak enough they collapse under heavy load.
 
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