90% of the time I'm reading this board, I'm sleepy and my eyes are tired. I just can't do it.

 

Sorry, I guess I forgot to address your question on the EBPV. As has been stated, I did do an EBPV delete. I had the engine on a stand anyway so it was an easy thing to do at the time. My thoughts for doing it were more along the lines or removing something that I didn't need and that could cause a leak down the road. So I gutted the housing and butchered the pedestal then had a local shop weld the holes shut where the oil would have actuated the piston for the EBPV. The EBPV really is only there to aid in warmup (supposedly) but I am not sure it really helps all that much and since I have an AIC (high idle) on my truck anyway, I use that in the winter if I need to defrost the truck before I leave. The EBPV is also a frequent issue on these trucks for closing at the wrong time and I just didn't want to mess with it.

Here are some pictures to look at:

Turbo outlet with EBPV. They say that the EBPV even when open can be a 20% restriction in the exhaust.


Turbo outlet without EBPV


Welded pedestal


And for bold text, on this forum you can click the "Go Advanced" button in your reply (which I assume you're doing anyway since I see you have the smiley faces covered) and in the top left hand corner of the response pane there is a button with a bold B. Click that button and you have bold print. Actually in the response it just puts some brackets and some B's around your text, but when it posts you will be BOLD. You can also turn it on by pressing the control (ctrl) key then the b key on your keyboard. You just have to move the cursor to the other side of the last bracket B thingy when you want to be done typing in bold. It is a little cumbersome, but not too bad once you get used to it.

Carry on "van guys", carry on....lol.

Actually I am sympathetic to your situation as well. I did some work on our service vans for my previous employer. Those were gas vans, and I hated them. I can only imagine what you're dealing with on a PSD van.

 

The only thing easy on a PSD Van is the Turbo ...I a can remove mine in 20 min...everything else required taking 3 or 4 things off just to get to what you want to work on ...Telescopic mirrors help ALOT .... I understand the cost of the scan tool and other financial considerations , but you need to determine if it is a HPOP problem or not ....the mechanical guage as mentioned above or a scan will tell you this...If you get 500 psi or more it should start...if it does not you need to look at other things....as you now know you have to remove alot of stuff just to get to what you need to work on...If you do not get 500 it is probably a toasted o-ring or stuck IPR....You have fuel pressure correct ? The main things on the PSD are fuel pressure, Oil pressure(HP) and electronics if all three are in spec it will start....

 

Hey Blage,that's not true. you own and work on a PSD VAN,nothing's too Macguyver for you. I think Macguyver would puke at the sight of these things, and scamper off to the next available anything.
I've been doing some more reading, I'm going back in after the IPR ,not pulling. cleaning, checking that thing has been bothering me ever since I started putting this thing back together during the F/P job .BTW where is the PCM, I haven't seen that yet,I looked a little, in the in the obvious /normal places, haven't come across it. Just curious

Tuck.

 

PCM is to the left of the Brake booster standing in front of the Van. It is going into the Van...hard to see if you still have the Air box on ....as you already know the Airbox has to come off 99% of the time you have to reach anything.....

 

Hey Blage, found it, very well hidden. The air box has been in the back of the van since Janu ary 8t when this PSD thing started. Got it all. back apart to take out the IPR. .I found a couple disturbing issues, I found that I never hooked up what I believe is the return fuel line at the back of the fuel press reg., the elbow. (clamp type) I don't think it would've caused any issues other than dumping would be return fuel into the valley.
The second thing, even more disturbing. The pulse disc, I believe, the 3 1/2"BOSCH peice that threads onto high press fuel banjo (back of F/P) was seriously loose, I distinctly remember cranking on that a little w/ channel locks? ? it's gonna get loctite this time, but I know it was leaking and I'm sure that would've affected the H/P fuel supply.

I got the IPR out, didn't have a deep enough 1 1/8 socket . I cut an 1 1/8th 12 point offset box end wrench down to 11" in length, it worked beautifully /easily.
I haven't taken it apart just yet,( as soon as I'm finished typing this) just for the hell of it ,withth IPR in my hand, I applied 12v to the terminals properly,I am certain. As in to operate it. I got no reaction from it. (I've worked w/ fuel locks before the universal types, I could always hear them and feel the plunger reactions) Do you know, with these
IPR,S,should I be able to hear and or feel it operate w/power applied.

thanks. Tuck
a

 

I would not mess with the IPR....just check the o-rings and re-install it ....It is an electromagnetic valve as you know which operates at specific parametersECSD - Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ
http://www.puredieselpower.com/Tech/...0Regulator.pdf
As far as Diagnostics read these ....http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...iagnostics.pdf
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949.../9773LDEDG.pdf
And above all else fix those fuel leaks ....

 

ITS ALIVE!! Got it running sunday before last. As for what exactly the problem was, the only thing I know for sure is the fuel filter housing was not filling w/fuel. I know it had at least a bad fuel pump . I think the cps /cmp was going bad also, when I get a chance I'm going to put the old cps back in to verify that. As stated in a previous reply when i pulled it back apart ( after the initial fuel pump install)to check / clean the IPR, i found the pulse disc loose and the fuel return line completely disconnected (I still can't believe I did that. but no one else touched the truck) almost definitely the reason it didn't start after the new pump install. I also found a really bad connection, 2 white 12/10 gauge wires on the passenger
fender mounted solenoid going to the GPR . In any event, its been running now for about 2 weeks / 600 miles and hasn't missed a beat, starts and runs perfect.
Thank you Nate (DIY Mechanic) Thank you Blageurt, I don't think I would've got it without you guys.
FTE RULES!

 

I am glad to hear it is running! Enjoy that truck.

 

Solid....Now you can start modifying it ..... Do the IDM and BB Mod first, then Exhaust, then a Chip, then injectors , HPOP ... see what I mean .....

 

Glad you got it running!! But for the sake of your engine and everybody else that might follow this story Put down the GD ether can and never touch it again I know some will say pull the Glow plug fuse or wire and no worries but most won't and if you have a valve open and a lit glow plug it's good bye air box at the least (ask me how I know ) and possibly a wrecked head/engine at the worst!! If you feel like you have to spray something in there let it be a can of WD-40, it's nothing but diesel fuel and propane for a propellant anyways..... JMHO

Slick