I am trying to figure out why my truck won't start - with no luck so far. The fuel gelled several days ago when it was -15F. The truck actually started twice, then stalled. The fuel filters were changed and the fuel lines disconnected from the tank to HCFM to verify flow to the pump. It never started again after that.
I towed it to my shop where it has been inside and warm for days. I changed fuel filters again, verified fuel pressure at the secondary bowl (53 psi). I discovered air bubbles in the fuel then disconnected/reconnected the fuel lines from tank to HCFM - no more air bubbles.
I've checked every fuse in the truck, put all the relays one at a time into my other, operational 6.0 and they all work.
I've verified the voltage at the FICM as suggested in the tech folder (it never drops below 47 even while cranking)
I've verified low oil pressure via the oil filter as described in the tech folder.
I've disconnected the ICP and tried to start with it disconnected.
There IS oil pressure showing on the gauge when I crank the motor.
There is no smoke while I crank.
I highly doubt I have any wire chaffing issues.
I'm basically thinking it is a fuel issue between the secondary fuel filter and the injectors, or the injectors themselves. I did remove and inspect the fuel regulator and spring from the secondary fuel bowl- it all looked good and clean.
I'm kind of out of ideas. Any suggestions, short of towing to a dealer? How do I know if there is actually fuel getting to the injectors?

 

I have to ask. did you do the minimum three key cycles(about 30 seconds each) without starting to purge the air out of the fuel lines.? this is the same procedure you would follow when changing fuel filters.

 

Because it basically "ran out of fuel", you may have to crank on it a LONG time. Some have had to recharge their batteries and try again....but it finally started. Lots of air in the system.

 

I had a severe fuel gel problem a couple of years ago that sounds very similar to yours. The HFCM housing had to be cleaned because it was full of jelly. A new set of fuel filters plugged almost instantly and had to be changed out again.

The truck would not start until the batteries were fully charged. After about a minute of cranking, the truck started up and ran just fine.

Recommend a full battery charge. Also doube check that the primary fuel filter cover is fully seated on the HFCM housing. A slight gap there can cause an air leak. Cycle the key to the run position and listen to the fuel pump. Make sure that it is really running. It will turn off after 30 - 45 seconds. Run a couple of cycles before trying to start the truck.

Since the truck ran OK before the fuel gel problem, the issue is probably all fuel delivery related.

Lou Braun

 

The fuel is clean, the HCFM is clean, the filters are clean. I can't see any air bubbles in the fuel and it has good pressure. I've cycled the pump many, many times. The batteries have a full charge. I've kept them charged after every attempt.
It's really frustrating since everything was working fine before the gelling.
I'm not familiar enough with the motor to know how to check if there is actually fuel getting to the injectors but that seems to be the issue. Or maybe there is crap fuel in the injectors that won't fire? If so is there a way to drain it out?

 

You didn't mention checking for codes - have you?

Also, the acceptable FICM voltage doesn't mean the FICM is good necessarily. Try swapping that out w/ a known good one. I understand the focus on the fuel, but sometimes multiple things happen simultaneously.

 

Be careful as you try to find out about the fuel getting to the injectors. If I remember right I think m-chan posted a story about a mechanic who got a shot of 2,500 psi fuel right in the face (maybe it was 25,000psi?). Either way, it got behind his eyeball and into his eye socket and messed him up real bad.

 

I checked the codes with my newly purchased AE software. It had a few codes but nothing that seemed like it was the problem (trailer brake controller, ABS etc.)
I then checked the oil pressure while cranking - only 318 psi. From what I've read here it needs 500 psi to start. So that gave me a direction to start with.
After more reading, I decided to start with the dummy plugs and standpipes. (Mostly because they sounded cheaper/easier to replace than other options) After removing them, I saw no damage whatsoever to the o-rings so I highly doubted that was the problem. I decided to put the new tubes in, replace the valve covers and remove the turbo and intake without even trying to start the truck.
When I removed the IPR, there was a hole in the screen. Is it safe to assume the IPR is bad?
I also removed the oil cooler. The screen underneath was torn.
Now I'm looking for advise on how to proceed. Nothing else looks bad (to my untrained eye) but I'd hate to replace the oil cooler screen, the ipr, put the truck back together and it not start or ruin another ipr immediately.
Any suggestions on what else to look for? Or did I likely already find the problem?

 

Some debris of some sort broke that ipr screen. Do you have the right oil filter cap and using the right filter?

 

You need a new IPR thats your problem

also replace the ss screen under the oil cooler

Do you have a OEM Oil Filter and OEM Oil Filter CAP?? Got to be 110% shure on that filter/cap because if not unfiltered oil gets threw to the HPO system and gets on the IPR screen and clogs it so all it can do then it build oil pressure untill it gets high enough to blow the IPR out

heres a good thread on the diffrent caps what I suspect is the ROOT Cause of your problem because of all the Blown out screens

WRONG OIL FILTER CAP CAUSING UNFILTERED OIL TO TAKE OUT THE IPR
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lew-again.html

Im thinking the IPR was your issue all along how do you know that the fuel Gelled up????

 

Yes, I have to correct oil filter and cap. I bought the truck new and it is the original one. I had read that thread earlier tonight - quite interesting!
The fuel was gelled, or maybe partly gelled? When we took the fuel filters out there was white goo on them (mostly the lower one on the frame). The truck had started in the cold though - and then just died while idling.
The more I'm reading, the more I'm deciding to just replace the ipr and the screen. Just wanted a bit of input in case there was something else to look for while I've got it all apart.
And crossing my fingers I an get it all put back together!

 

Once the IPR Blows the Screen out there is NO other option but to REPLACE IPR

once the IPR blows out it remains open thus draining all the oil back to the crank case so it Can NOT build High Press Oil to fire the Injectors

Bottom Line IPR Must be Replaced also the screen under the oil cooler

 

Makes perfect sense. My main concern is what caused the blowout. If it is likely because of the screen under the oil cooler being torn, then I'll just replace that, clean everything really well and put it back together.
Should I replace the oil cooler gasket? What about the intake gaskets? Should they be replaced or are they reusable?
Any way to test the oil cooler to see if it is partially clogged while I have it off? Seems like a common problem and this would be a great time to address it. I haven't had any other issues making me think it's clogged - just wondering if there is a way to check while it is removed.
Thank you for the advise!

 

The screen under the oil cooler is just another line of defense so nothing gets into the HPO system its cheap just replace it

IDK of any way to test the oil cooler without running the truck

The way everyone tests the oil cooler is drive the truck at 60-65mph untill BOTH the ECT and EOT Maxes out at there High points and then take the spread of the 2 temps There should be no more than a 15* spread between ECT & EOT
this test usually takes a 30-45 minute drive at a steady 60-65 mph (no stop and go traffic must be steady)

It might not hurt to just replace the Oil cooler you can get a Oil Cooler rebuild kit from Tousley Foed for around 215.00 AND since your there might as well change it out

Get a ScanGauge II for 160 bucks it will monitor ECT & EOT and also monitor ICP & IPR for HPO issues

Plus the SGII will watch a Ton of other things as far as gauges go SGII is the best bang for the Buck IMO

 

I also noticed all your 6.0s was 05+ so you might want to look into a BPD upgraded EGR Cooler to since all the egr cooler on 05+ models suck and blow out easy

at any rate as long as you keep the oil cooler within the 15* spread ECT vs EOT the OEM EGR Cooler should be fine