F250 2001 144k miles, mostly towing horse trailer. She's been SUCH a good truck... no issues ever. And I've neglected her... regular oil changes & that's been pretty much it. And then I noticed an oil leak.. small at 1st then got worse. Turns out it was the "unserviceable" HPOP and (thanks to all you guys & Bob) got all the O rings etc & got that taken care of. I have a diesel mechanic (I can't open a jar due to arthritis much less do anything mechanical) and he had only done a few of these, but did muttle thru it (if he'd read Bob's instructions, it would have gone much smoother). Got 'r home & hooked up to tow my horse to the woods.. got almost there... it started sorta skipping.. when I asked for power, like on hills, etc.. rest of the time it would coast, but if I pressed on the accelerator hard, it was like we were going thru mud and big puff of (looked to me) white smoke coming out the exhaust.. engine reving but nothing.. stupid me kept going & finally, 2 miles down a single lane gravel road, came to a hill we just couldn't pull.. I'd put it in park, let 'r idle a bit & then bk to drive & we'd go a few ft & then just revving wf no forward impulsion. Yup.. had to back 2 miles back down that dirt road (this girl CAN back a trailer) and limped to a friends house. Got the truck towed. Mechanic didn't have a clue, after cking it all out. He had changed the fuel filter, prob hadn't been done in yrs, said maybe a bit of gunk had clogged the fuel line? siphoned the fuel out of the filter & put that back on. Drove it @ 10 minutes.. doing it again.. took it to the dealership & paid them to put it on the computer.. they said the fuel pump was "going" bad. Took it bk to my mechanic.. he replaced the fuel pump.. STILL doing it.. Then we figured.. maybe the tranny? Hadn't been serviced since 03! OK.. now that's been done.. screen was dirty.. tranny fluid pretty dirty. Got it back just now.. drove it @ 15 minutes & so far.. so good.. got it nice & warm & then took it barreling up a hill.. shifted fine, seemed to be OK. One suggestion was that I post this, and give my location, and see if there's any white knights nearby that would be willing to give me some pointers. I'd like to make this truck last another 150k miles and be able to rely on 'r to get me, my dog & my horse to the woods & back. We are volunteers for the Forest Service, work on trails, that kinda thing.. and we need to be able to get there!
I'm in Rutherford County, NC (zip 28139) which is about half way between Charlotte & Asheville NC. Any ideas that you all have for me, I'd really appreciate. Thanks bunches! Deirdre

 

Sorry, I'm not close by, but this kind of sounds like a combination of symptoms from the neglect you described.

Since you're making progress, I would suggest you show your mechanic this link and think about having him do this for you.
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page (those instructions are from the same Bob you already know).

A fuel restriction will cause the type of problems you've described. Seems ok on flat roads, but under load pulling a trailer up a hill it can fall on it's face. The reason is there are 2 cylinder shaped screens in the mixing chamber that can become clogged with debris. They will let just enough fuel through for the truck to run, but when you demand more from the engine, the fuel isn't there.

Dirty screens look like this


Clean screens look like this


The link above removes these screens so you never have to deal with them again.

 

Deirdre: It looks like you and I have the exact same problem. Only mine occurred pulling a boat trailer not a horse trailer.

Chris: Thank you for your reply to Deirdre. I did the Harpoon Mod about four years ago. I did not know about and didn't do the Hutch Mod, but I will now. Do you have any suggestions for an inline frame mounted fuel filter?

Also, I saw a single line in a post which said, in effect: "fuel starvation can ruin your injectors." Assuming that is what is causing my vehicle (and possibly Deirdre's) to spew out white smoke (i.e., unburnt fuel), any suggestions for what to look for?

Deirdre: I will update this post after I take off the valve covers which will take a while because I have a van which likely entails removing the various auxilary pumps to get to the valve cover bolts then reinstalling the pumps to put the serpentine belt back on to test the injectors (visually and pulling electrical connections?) while running. I am handy but not I haven't done anything like this since I was a teenager, so I will be going very slowly.

At the risk of repeating myself from a thread I started on this issue, below is a description of the events and my examination so far:

2002 E350 7.3 powerstroke van; 160,000 miles on the engine; auto trans; 4x4 conversion; original injectors and no injector work has ever been done.

7-31-12 Driving for 8 miles on washboard roads in Idaho the dashboard lights would all light up, then none would be on and the mph and other gauges would turn off, then the engine would lose power and occasionally stall, then immediately the appropriate lights would come back on with the gauges and the engine would restart. This happened many times on the washboard into our camp.

8-5-12 On the way out of camp I drove quite a bit faster on the washboard, and the above symptoms occurred only a few times.

8-5-12 Driving from Idaho to Sacto, van started losing power uphill. We would pull over and wait ten minutes and drive up the remainder of the hill and continue until the next hill where we would repeat the process. (BTW, no dashboard lights, gauges, stalling occurred after leaving the washboard and getting on pavement.)

About 90 miles East of Reno a check engine light came on for the first time, but there were no additional driveability symptoms other than the uphill loss of power discussed above.

10 miles East of Truckee the van had absolutely no power. I pulled over and white smoke was for the first time now coming out the tailpipe.

One AAA tow later, the vehicle is at home in North Sacto and readily starts, but the engine misses and white smoke just spews out the tail pipe.

The smoke does not smell sweet to me. Rather, it smells like unburned diesel and the Pure Diesel Performance injector stuff I put in the tank after I got home.

Used my buddy's Harbor Freight code reader and pulled P1211 as the single code in the system.

I have checked fuel/water separator filter and saw no obstruction.

Also have evacuated the fuel bowl and turned the key to the "on" position. It took exactly 15 seconds for the fuel bowl to fill to the middle of the threads on the fuel bowl where the cap screws in. Left fuel bowl cap off at 3:50 pm was still holding the same (or maybe a slightly higher level) when I returned from O’Reilly with new fuel filter at 5:10 pm. I have not measured fuel pump pressure.

I changed the oil and did not see any water in the oil. Also checked the radiator for fuel and oil in radiator. Did not see any.

Replaced the CAM Position Sensor but no change in engine operation.

I checked the turbo vanes and shaft and the turbo seems to have no play in or out or side to side.

However, it has been a while since I replaced the up-pipes and donuts and I notice that the driver-side up-pipe is leaking exhaust and there seems to be oil below the turbo on the passenger side.

BTW, I am happy to respond to PM's questions regarding my thoughts on van 4x4 conversions and my experience with the add-ons which one might want to consider adding to a van to make it more like a mini-rv.

 

Hey Tim.. does sound very similar... differences are that no check engine or any similar lights have ever flashed, come on (other than normal) or not come on. The smoke that I've experienced is only when it does its "losing power" stuff.. it will crank fine & seems to run great for miles.. actually since they serviced the tranny, I haven't gotten it to do it again, but did only run it 15-20 min ystdy.. been busy today so didn't get bk to it. Plan to run the heck out of it tomorrow and see.

 

If you tow often it would be in your best interest to get your self a transmission temp gauge. There was obviously something amiss in your transmission and if it was to show its head again the rising temp will give you a heads up. I would be interested to know how much oil cam out of the trans when it was changed. It holds 17 qrts.

 

There are many options available. The reason for the inline filter is to protect your fuel pump from damage if something gets sucked up through the pick up. Anything that filters as well as the original screens will work. I spoke with an Engineer at Baldwin when I did mine and decided to just go with something around the 100 micron rating. Others have chosen to mount a spin on filter with a rating better than the stock fuel filter so the inline filter becomes the primary fuel filter and the stock filter becomes secondary.

Options range from something like this Driven Diesel 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit that uses the Baldwin BF1212 filter to something like this Diesel Innovations Complete SS Pre-Pump fuel line kit that uses the Baldwin BF7725

Just don't use anything with a galvanized screen or any galvanized metal internal parts, and be sure it is rated for suction and diesel fuel.




That's not fuel related, so you'll have to trace down your loose ground or shorted wire separately.



Please share the model number and preferably a picture of this scanner. Most generic scanners won't read our engine codes, so this sounds promising.

For the code, do you have a chip or tuner? Low on oil? It could be related to that or possibly caused by a low fuel pressure issue.

 

Hey Brian.. I'll have to ask my mechanic

 

Chris:



Harbor Freight, item 98568, CAN OBD II, Centech $59 (remember to also use a 20% off coupon)

CAN OBDII Code Reader with Multilingual Menu

It got great reviews, but apparently it doesn't work on all vehicles and I notice that one reviewer said it wouldn't work on his Duramax.

On the other hand, I CAN attest that it pulled the P1211 code out of my 2002 7.3. But, there was nothing in the freeze part of the scanner.

I believe you have 30 days to return it if it doesn't work on your vehicle.

As far as my problem, I am guessing that I have low fuel pressure from a clogged screen which caused fuel starvation resulting in injector failure. I won't know anything more until I take the valve covers off.

Of course that could be water vapor coming out the tail pipe and I could have a blown head gasket between a water jacket and a cylinder. There is no water in the oil.

I don't have a chip. Everything is stock and untouched. I will report what I find. If you have any suggestions, obviously I would be grateful to have them.

Deirdre: Your truck is in better shape than mine, but I wouldn't put off that Hutch Mod that Chris was talking about, it sounds like something that will get you one day if it hasn't already.

Chris: Thank you for the filter recommendations.

 

" but if I pressed on the accelerator hard..... engine reving but nothing.. "

Deirdre 0414 - Everytbody should be tired of me telling my tales of woe when I wiped out my transmission - that was how it happened.

The 4R100 transmission was the toughest workhorse in the Ford stable when they hitched it up to the 7.3L PSD in late '98, but it still wasn't tough enough to last near as long as the engine. That motor has too much power and towing heavy like you do will likely cause an early demise of the transmission.

John Wood, BTS, and HD4R100 are worthy searches on this site - they are transmission overhaulers and the Ford transmission replacement of the 4R100. It may be possible to install some aftermarket enhancements for the transmission, but 144K miles (many of them haulin' horses up grades).... we may be past preventative measures for this transmission - I dunno.

Tim Hodgson - I'm not much of a mechanic, but I'm a good troubleshooter. I just did the uber-Hutch mod - I say "uber" because I'm such a lousy mechanic that I had to drop the tank 4 times (but I'm getting fast at it). [LINK] [LINK]

• The tank mixing chamber has the fuel return feed into the fuel pickup.
• The 7.3L fuel rail is a dead end system - what goes in the fuel rail, must go through the injector.

I installed a Riffraff Diesel FRx to open the end of the fuel rail to the fuel return line and this removes any air that might get in the system. How would air get in the system? Fittings in the fuel tank sometimes come loose and things fall off - sucking in air when the fuel sloshes. Once it's in there, you are trapped in a loop because the fuel return line feeds it right back to the fuel pump intake and the injectors get "hammered" by the air that reaches them. My source of air in the fuel was the quick-disconnects for the line to the fuel pump. They are O-ring sealed and O-rings suck at... well... suction. I replace my whole line between the tank and the pump, using good hose and injector clamps. Here's the fun part: The tank has a 3/8" tube outlet and the pump has a 5/16" tube inlet.

The bracket I used is a piece of 2" angle iron, drilled to match the holes on the filter bracket and two holes already in my frame. I'm installing two filters (oil and fuel) on my bracket, so my design includes spacers between the bracket and the frame to allow everything to fit.

If you want to get serious about servicing these two 7.3L diesels, you might be a candidate for AutoEnginuity. Everything in my signature is a link and that last one has proven very useful to many. I've given you enough to read for a while - we'll be here when you return with your thoughts on all of it.

 

Everyone needs a fuel pressure gage mounted on their truck. For most of our trucks, when it reads below 50, you are clogging. As you start clogging the truck loses upper end power (which is required while pulling a trailer).
A short term patch is to disconnect the line from the infeed of the pump and blow pressureized air into the tank to open the screens. Then reconnect the pump and go.

 

(my head is swimming) After servicing the tranny... still doing it.. drove it 20 miles into town, no problems.. grocery store & then home.. no problems.. we have a steep hill just before the house.. gunned it up the hill... fell on its face! When asked to pull the hill (gear down, I guess, asking for torque) it stutters.. then shutters.. drops rpm's... if I stop, put into neutral.. gun it... its fine.. its getting fuel (I think) it just fails to translate the fuel into power after its gotten warmed up & when its put into the hill pulling scenario.
David, we DID just have the fuel pump replaced.. but it was doing this before & after, no difference, but maybe air got into the lines when the pump was replaced?
Tugly, that Auto Enginuity thingy... the 'ford enhanced' package.. does that compare to what the dealership uses on their diagnosis stuff? Will it detect issues like wf tranny, not just engine related? Sorry, guys.. I really am trying to learn.. all new stuff to me. Thank you SO much for being so patient. I'm cking those links.. I'm thinking hmmmm maybe I buy that Auto Enginuity thingy.. and then share it wf my mechanic, who's GREAT on fixing things, but not so great at diagnosing 'em.. help him.. help me..

 

either way dierdre, you should look into the HUTCH mod. Your existing/future pumps will thank you, plus, you can eliminate fuel starvation from the equation.

 

Deirdre, the Hutch mod is really to fix a inherent problem with the fuel pick up and delivery quiet often revealing a clog pick up screen. Although you have replaced the pump if the screen is clogged ya pump wont pump. Especially under load when you are calling for more fuel. Im not saying that this is problem but without gauges or software analysis remedying you problem is a step by step procedure. Would you say from you experience that the loss of forward motion is due the transmission spinning/slipping (engine revving as normal but no forward movement) or due to engine loosing power ??? Due you get a check engine warning on your dash. Does the Overdrive light flash ??

 

Hey Brian.. when the "problem" occurs.. usually after she's been running @ 10-15 miles and then I ask her to pull a hill.. we get halfway up a 6-8% grade wf me gunning it & she stutters.. doesn't feel like slipping, feels like stuttering.. motor sounds fine and revving up but no forward impulsion. NO lights for indication, ck engine light has not come on during any of this.... BUT you're talking about Overdrive light.. for a few YEARS now, the overdrive light has not worked correctly. Generally, if in park, the light will work fine, but if you try to change while going, the light doesn't light up (overdrive on to off or visa versa) Engine DOES shift, but the light wasn't working.. I didn't think a thing about it, as I figured it was just the light being hinky and one of these days I'd get 'r fixed. Overdrive light has never flashed.. just fails to light when off when in other than park.

 

You've got a fuel restriction. These statements tell it all. You're fuel pump is still pumping fuel to the engine, but it's not enough volume. It can sit and idle all day with no issues, it can drive around on flat ground with slow acceleration and no high speeds with no issues. But as soon as you demand excess power from it, there's not enough fuel getting through those screens for the motor to run right.

If you don't believe me, have your mechanic put in a temporary fuel pressure gauge. There are two test ports on the back side of the fuel filter bowl. Watch the fuel pressure fall on it's face when you go up that hill and the truck falls on it's face.